Tag: Nuovo

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New Movement in Central Massachusetts Restaurants

An artist rendition of the AC Hotel at City Square in downtown Worcester, MA.

“Worcester is in the midst of a bona fide restaurant renaissance,” according to The Boston Globe… but we knew that all along. Worcester has been on the food scene for quite some time, since the introductions of our infamous restaurant staples like Armsby Abbey, Nuovo, VIA Italian Table, Red Pepper, The Niche Hospitality Group locations and Baba Sushi, pinning Worcester at the top of the list for food destination scenes in Massachusetts for years.

Naturally, to compete with the sophisticated and trendy restaurants of major cities like Boston, New York and Chicago, Worcester is in a constant state of evolution – creating and recreating the dining experience with a diverse portfolio tending to every unique craving.

Carving meat from the skewer Terra Brasilis on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA.
Carving meat from the skewer Terra Brasilis on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA.

In 2016, Worcester experienced a core-shaking boom in the food industry as it said “goodbye” to long loved restaurants that made Worcester history come to life and “hello” to the newbies making headlines and turning everyone’s focus to the abundance of quality in local food.

“There are hungry people out here who don’t want to and don’t have to commute into Boston for a great meal,” says Jared Forman, a native of Queens, New York and Executive Chef at deadhorse hill. “If you look down Main Street from where we are, I feel like I am on one beautiful street in New York. Nothing has changed and anything is possible,” says Forman’s business partner, Sean Woods. As co-owners of deadhorse hill – which opened early 2016 – their sole mission is to create a restaurant that specializes in what they call “modern hospitality.” “That means comfortable and being welcomed. Making you feel welcome as soon as you walk in the door and elevate it so that the service is proper but at the same time super casual,” said Forman when describing his inspiration of modern hospitality from Danny Meyer – a crown jewel of the restaurant hospitality business in New York.

But deadhorse hill isn’t the only newcomer to the vibrant Central Massachusetts food scene that sees Worcester as the champ of the much-deserved title “food hub.” In the first ten months of 2016, Worcester became the new stomping grounds to over 15 restaurants, anticipating an additional six opening in the beginning of 2017.

“At first, we thought, ‘why would anyone open a restaurant in Worcester?’ but after visiting and really taking a closer look we wondered why people weren’t running to Worcester to take the opportunity of opening a restaurant,” says Jack Doherty, co-owner of Brew on the Grid. Brew on the Grid is a modern twist on the average cup of coffee, giving patrons a little hint of big city in every cup of joe. Opened in August 2016, Brew on the Grid is part of a grand model – five eateries within two city blocks, each offering up a little flavor to something different. By the end of the anticipated year, Brew on the Grid will be neighbors to Techni (a Mediterranean grill), Pie & Pint (a fast casual pizza house), Craft Table & Bar (a casual restaurant featuring top craft beers, spirits and innovative dishes) and The End: Eatery and Drinkery (a high-end eatery to end the week).

The Greek Burrito from The Sandwich Place in Worcester, MA
The Greek Burrito from The Sandwich Place in Worcester, MA

Don’t be fooled. Downtown Worcester may be the city’s flagship location for up and coming opportunities, but it isn’t the only place in Worcester offering residents a slice of city pie. A short distance from downtown is Dacosta’s Pizza Bakery, a contender for truly authentic pizza and Italian dishes that will keep even Boston’s pizza scene on their toes. Also, a short distance from downtown, Park Avenue’s changes have the promise to be a big part of the city’s food hub. Recently joining the Park Ave food scene is Pho Bowl, Antonio’s Pizza By The Slice, Bootleggers Prohibition Pub and Altea – a sister restaurant of Livia’s Dish, as well as The Sandwich Hut. “I owned Wingman on Park Ave and felt that the wing themed restaurant was becoming oversaturated in Worcester, so after an unfortunate mishap with our refrigerating system, we opened The Sandwich Hut,” says Pat Logan, owner of The Sandwich Hut. “Worcester doesn’t have a place that focuses on specialty sandwiches on Park Ave and we thought this would be a great place to add one.”

An entree from Bootleggers in Worcester, MA
A scallop entree from Bootleggers in Worcester, MA

Not too far away from Park Avenue’s busy streets is the iconic Shrewsbury Street (aka Restaurant Row) – the home to some of Worcester’s favorite dining spots like Sweet Kitchen & Bar, One Eleven Chop House, Piccolo’s and Pomir Grill. This year we welcomed British Beer Company—a “chain” that has taken a vested interest in the heart of the Commonwealth; Terra Brasilis, a Brazilian BBQ restaurant joined the every-changing street; and another newcomer is expected to join us by the end of the year, The Usual, opening in The Fix’s original space, and isn’t about your usual homemade sandwich. Instead it stands to make a name for itself by offering specialty sandwiches unlike any other – with some requiring a fork and knife. “We want to give the sandwiches a new look and feel. There’s no other place focusing on specialty sandwiches and we are here to make it happen,” says Kevin Perry, co-owner.

Roasted beets with creamy goat cheese, baby Kale and Blood Orange form Lock 50 on Water Street in Worcester, MA
Roasted beets with creamy goat cheese, baby Kale and Blood Orange form Lock 50 on Water Street in Worcester, MA

Shrewsbury Street may be iconic to Worcester residents, but it is not the only place in the city giving you a chance to indulge your senses. The Canal District won the food lotto with the recent additions of Lock 50 and The Hangover Pub. “At Lock 50 we have found a great location in the Canal District, with the new development projects and upswing of the area we find ourselves to be a centerpiece in the District,” says Tom Studer of Lock 50. “Our concept of small plates has been widely embraced at this point. We have started to see customers come all the way from Boston, Providence and Portsmouth to experience what we have to offer. We also have a variety of events, a great patio and our Cafe program has bridged us into a great relationship with the arts community. We are heavily involved in the Canal District Art Walk,” he added.

CIDER BRAISED STATLER CHICKEN from The Hangover Pub on Green Street in Worcester, MA
CIDER BRAISED STATLER CHICKEN: Sherry cream, apple, bacon, Yukon gold potatoes, Brussel Sprouts

With many great new additions, it is only natural to part with some of the restaurants that made our foodie hearts melt. We tip our chef hats to those we have said goodbye to in 2016: Somethin’ Catchy Seafood Shanty never “caught on” in Worcester (it has been sold and is under construction for an upcoming Brazilian themed location), Wingman (now the location of The Sandwich Hut), Perfect Game (oh, how we will miss you!), EVO (now the location of Bootleggers Prohibition Pub), and Shiraz Armenian Cuisine (a Park Avenue staple for over 20 years).

Worcester isn’t just the second largest city in New England nor is it the ugly stepsister of Boston; Worcester is in fact the hub for all things incredible. Food, business, tech and hospitality are only but a few elements keeping Worcester at top of everyone’s “what’s hot” list.

Chef Jared Forman at deadhorse hill in Worcester, MA
Chef Jared Forman at deadhorse hill in Worcester, MA.
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Italian Fare With An Albanian Flare for Chef Alex Gjonca

Chef Alex Gjonca Cooking at Nuovo on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

“That’s Italian!” Sure, the food at Nuovo in Worcester on Shrewsbury Street is the furthest thing from the Ragu commercial those words may evoke. But it’s hard to look at the restaurant’s deep and appealing Italian menu and not think of that as a compliment. Then, as your eyes begin to focus to decide what to order you come to the “caldi primi” (hot first courses). And nestled in the middle is … “Albanian Appetizer” (oven braised liver, garlic, feta cheese, hot peppers). Huh? The dish sounds fantastic but what is it doing here? And come to think of it the Nuovo Antipasto (yogurt sauce, beefsteak tomatoes, olives, hot roasted peppers, feta cheese, white beans, olive oil, garlic, fresh herbs and crostini) sounds great but feels Albanian too. Yet nothing else does. What gives?

Alex Gjonca gives.

Chef Alex Gjonca at Nuovo on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA
Chef Alex Gjonca at Nuovo on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

Turns out, I’m like many new customers who wonder why that one Albanian dish is on the menu. But while the dish is a surprise find, the fact that an Albanian couple, Alex and his wife and partner Loreta, are the team behind Nuovo should not be all that surprising.

Albanian restaurants may not be common in these parts, but Albanians are world travelers and their country is surrounded by and draws influences from countries with long culinary histories, including Italy. That Alex and Loreta decided to open an Italian restaurant in 2011, however, goes beyond culinary geography. Aside from Turkish food, there is no other cuisine Alex loves to eat as much as Italian. In the years after immigrating to Worcester from Albania in the early 1990s and raising his family here, Alex cooked in Italian restaurants. He speaks Italian and cooked in one of the best restaurants in Rome.

And it was certainly not surprising to hear Alex and Loreta talk the way so many Italians do about their restaurant as a “home” and customers as “family.” In working with and talking to not just Italian chefs and restaurateurs but leaders across industries, I would need more than my fingers and toes to count the number of people who said they wanted their business to make people feel welcome. Most of them mean it too.

But few have made me feel it so immediately as Alex and Loreta. Because what happened shortly after we sat down to talk was surprising.

It was 2:30pm on a Friday. The restaurant would not open for 90 minutes and is not open for lunch but the front door was open and a couple walked in. A power outage had closed several places down the street and they had nowhere to eat.

I have been in this situation before during interviews. I catch chefs in their down time or on the day that they are closed but the door is open and someone walks in. The chef or staff politely tells them they are closed. Not Alex and Loreta.

“Sorry no, I don’t have any servers,” she says. “But … I’ll see if I can serve you. Let me see if the kitchen has anything ready.” She heads to the back where Alex and his staff are prepping for that evening. And I watch as Alex looks around and thinks but realizes that it is just too early. No fairy tale ending for that couple. But in that little moment I know beyond words and without eating a bite that Alex and Loreta really mean it when they talk about welcoming people.

Si me shtëpinë tuaj is how Albanians say it. Just like your home – even if that home is serving food from a neighboring nation.

“Everybody loves the way we approach the customers,” says Alex. “First time you walk in, you are a customer but you leave a friend. Second time you are a friend, but you leave as family. When you come three times, you don’t have to be shy anymore to say I don’t like that or can you add something. You can ask for your favorite dish and if we can do it, we will do it. That’s how we give people a feeling of home. We don’t see them as numbers ever. They are our friends and family. I do that for 120 customers a night. I allow them all to read me. You are my family, so just ask. Making you happy makes our night.”

“We are here,” adds Loreta who runs the front of the house. “We are always here on the floor. We feel so good when we are working here and seeing everybody. If we are missing it is a surprise.”

Nuovo's lightly truffled lobster sitting on a risotto pancake.
Nuovo’s lightly truffled lobster sitting on a risotto pancake.

Like the terrible surprise that hit their family in 2013: cancer. As Nuovo was catching its stride, Alex was diagnosed with cancer and sidelined for two weeks following his surgery. But that was enough for him. He needed to be back at the stove. Even after his chemo treatments left him pale and weak he came back to Worcester from Dana Farber and put on his chef jacket for as long as he could.

“He might cook for an hour and then go to sleep,” says Loreta. “That’s how much this place means to him. How happy it makes him.”

Which is why the first six months in 2011 were so depressing. It was the realization of Alex’s American dream not just to be his own boss and creator but “to prove to myself if I could make it or not.” And signs initially pointed to “not.” I am not sure what the Albanian or Italian expression is for “crickets” but that’s what they heard until word of mouth spread. Mondays back then, it would just be Alex and Loreta and two customers at the bar. But they stayed persistent and worked hard. Alex’s optimism never wavered and Loreta never stopped learning how to run the business. Mondays today, traditionally a slower day in the restaurant business, you should call ahead.

Because Nuovo is a big family now, and Alex is cancer free and ready to serve them. That person likes the branzino? Alex makes sure he has it for him even if it is not on the menu. Just ask. And Loreta knows when they are coming, where they are sitting, when they are away and coming back from vacation. You will be taken care of because Alex and Loreta know in this business, you can be happy but never say, “I am all set.”

lightly truffled lobster sitting on a risotto pancake as a starter“We do not see the business as a competition with others,” says Alex. “We see the business as a serving the people we have known since we moved here from Albania. We try to bring the best. We try to picture a food that is not comparable directly to the other places but is our own flavors and technical way of cooking. Every day we come up with the specials and we allow people to come and try different flavors.”

Some of those different flavors can be found when you taste the dishes from the regular menu. Alex’s Albanian way of cooking influences everything he touches, especially in his use of fresh herbs. Albania is well known its herbs, wild and cultivated, and Alex deploys them to infuse even traditional Italian specialties with freshness and flavor. (To try more Albanian food, you’ll have to join a party in the room upstairs where 30% of the functions are for the Albanian community.)

But the regular menu is where Nuovo is now. To taste where Alex is going you’ll have to try the specials. And what is he playing with now? Tartufo or truffles, the most expensive ingredient in the world. Black truffles approach $100 per ounce and white truffles more than $150 per ounce. Truffle butter, even the jarred slices in oil, will set you back a bit. But Alex is finding ways to use them without customers having to take a second mortgage so they can explore.

“Not too many places use tartufo beyond the truffle oil. I see people liking it. Tartufo gives you a different taste in your mouth. You cannot judge tartufo you gotta like it and most people do,” says Alex. “It gives you a unique taste I give people an opportunity to try. We have to teach them. It’s not just about cooking. It is about teaching. It’s not about just giving them better food but teaching customers how to enjoy their food.”

For example, one night you might taste a lightly truffled lobster sitting on a risotto pancake as a starter or a decadent filet mignon, topped by a crab cake and a Béarnaise infused with those with fresh herbs, and served with truffle risotto. As he plays with the truffles, Alex is also experimenting with pastas as $10 side dishes so everyone can sample them and not fill up. A generous portion of homemade sacchettini stuffed with truffled lobster and squid ink pasta redolent with garlic were recent nods in this direction.

And if all that sounds like a lot of work for a restaurant that has no trouble filling seats today, that’s exactly what Alex and Loreta expect.

“What’s next is more work. Now it is more work. We are going to work harder for our customers because we love what we are doing,” says Alex. “We don’t just want more people here. In this business as soon as you make a couple of dollars, close your eyes, and think you are doing good you are gone. The guy next door will have the new ideas and take your customers. We want more family here who know we are working seriously and hard to make their time worth it.”