Tom Studer | Mass Food & Wine

An artist rendition of the AC Hotel at City Square in downtown Worcester, MA.

“Worcester is in the midst of a bona fide restaurant renaissance,” according to The Boston Globe… but we knew that all along. Worcester has been on the food scene for quite some time, since the introductions of our infamous restaurant staples like Armsby Abbey, Nuovo, VIA Italian Table, Red Pepper, The Niche Hospitality Group locations and Baba Sushi, pinning Worcester at the top of the list for food destination scenes in Massachusetts for years.

Naturally, to compete with the sophisticated and trendy restaurants of major cities like Boston, New York and Chicago, Worcester is in a constant state of evolution – creating and recreating the dining experience with a diverse portfolio tending to every unique craving.

Carving meat from the skewer Terra Brasilis on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA.

In 2016, Worcester experienced a core-shaking boom in the food industry as it said “goodbye” to long loved restaurants that made Worcester history come to life and “hello” to the newbies making headlines and turning everyone’s focus to the abundance of quality in local food.

“There are hungry people out here who don’t want to and don’t have to commute into Boston for a great meal,” says Jared Forman, a native of Queens, New York and Executive Chef at deadhorse hill. “If you look down Main Street from where we are, I feel like I am on one beautiful street in New York. Nothing has changed and anything is possible,” says Forman’s business partner, Sean Woods. As co-owners of deadhorse hill – which opened early 2016 – their sole mission is to create a restaurant that specializes in what they call “modern hospitality.” “That means comfortable and being welcomed. Making you feel welcome as soon as you walk in the door and elevate it so that the service is proper but at the same time super casual,” said Forman when describing his inspiration of modern hospitality from Danny Meyer – a crown jewel of the restaurant hospitality business in New York.

But deadhorse hill isn’t the only newcomer to the vibrant Central Massachusetts food scene that sees Worcester as the champ of the much-deserved title “food hub.” In the first ten months of 2016, Worcester became the new stomping grounds to over 15 restaurants, anticipating an additional six opening in the beginning of 2017.

“At first, we thought, ‘why would anyone open a restaurant in Worcester?’ but after visiting and really taking a closer look we wondered why people weren’t running to Worcester to take the opportunity of opening a restaurant,” says Jack Doherty, co-owner of Brew on the Grid. Brew on the Grid is a modern twist on the average cup of coffee, giving patrons a little hint of big city in every cup of joe. Opened in August 2016, Brew on the Grid is part of a grand model – five eateries within two city blocks, each offering up a little flavor to something different. By the end of the anticipated year, Brew on the Grid will be neighbors to Techni (a Mediterranean grill), Pie & Pint (a fast casual pizza house), Craft Table & Bar (a casual restaurant featuring top craft beers, spirits and innovative dishes) and The End: Eatery and Drinkery (a high-end eatery to end the week).

The Greek Burrito from The Sandwich Place in Worcester, MA

Don’t be fooled. Downtown Worcester may be the city’s flagship location for up and coming opportunities, but it isn’t the only place in Worcester offering residents a slice of city pie. A short distance from downtown is Dacosta’s Pizza Bakery, a contender for truly authentic pizza and Italian dishes that will keep even Boston’s pizza scene on their toes. Also, a short distance from downtown, Park Avenue’s changes have the promise to be a big part of the city’s food hub. Recently joining the Park Ave food scene is Pho Bowl, Antonio’s Pizza By The Slice, Bootleggers Prohibition Pub and Altea – a sister restaurant of Livia’s Dish, as well as The Sandwich Hut. “I owned Wingman on Park Ave and felt that the wing themed restaurant was becoming oversaturated in Worcester, so after an unfortunate mishap with our refrigerating system, we opened The Sandwich Hut,” says Pat Logan, owner of The Sandwich Hut. “Worcester doesn’t have a place that focuses on specialty sandwiches on Park Ave and we thought this would be a great place to add one.”

An entree from Bootleggers in Worcester, MA — A scallop entree from Bootleggers in Worcester, MA

Not too far away from Park Avenue’s busy streets is the iconic Shrewsbury Street (aka Restaurant Row) – the home to some of Worcester’s favorite dining spots like Sweet Kitchen & Bar, One Eleven Chop House, Piccolo’s and Pomir Grill. This year we welcomed British Beer Company—a “chain” that has taken a vested interest in the heart of the Commonwealth; Terra Brasilis, a Brazilian BBQ restaurant joined the every-changing street; and another newcomer is expected to join us by the end of the year, The Usual, opening in The Fix’s original space, and isn’t about your usual homemade sandwich. Instead it stands to make a name for itself by offering specialty sandwiches unlike any other – with some requiring a fork and knife. “We want to give the sandwiches a new look and feel. There’s no other place focusing on specialty sandwiches and we are here to make it happen,” says Kevin Perry, co-owner.

Roasted beets with creamy goat cheese, baby Kale and Blood Orange form Lock 50 on Water Street in Worcester, MA

Shrewsbury Street may be iconic to Worcester residents, but it is not the only place in the city giving you a chance to indulge your senses. The Canal District won the food lotto with the recent additions of Lock 50 and The Hangover Pub. “At Lock 50 we have found a great location in the Canal District, with the new development projects and upswing of the area we find ourselves to be a centerpiece in the District,” says Tom Studer of Lock 50. “Our concept of small plates has been widely embraced at this point. We have started to see customers come all the way from Boston, Providence and Portsmouth to experience what we have to offer. We also have a variety of events, a great patio and our Cafe program has bridged us into a great relationship with the arts community. We are heavily involved in the Canal District Art Walk,” he added.

CIDER BRAISED STATLER CHICKEN from The Hangover Pub on Green Street in Worcester, MA — CIDER BRAISED STATLER CHICKEN: Sherry cream, apple, bacon, Yukon gold potatoes, Brussel Sprouts

With many great new additions, it is only natural to part with some of the restaurants that made our foodie hearts melt. We tip our chef hats to those we have said goodbye to in 2016: Somethin’ Catchy Seafood Shanty never “caught on” in Worcester (it has been sold and is under construction for an upcoming Brazilian themed location), Wingman (now the location of The Sandwich Hut), Perfect Game (oh, how we will miss you!), EVO (now the location of Bootleggers Prohibition Pub), and Shiraz Armenian Cuisine (a Park Avenue staple for over 20 years).

Worcester isn’t just the second largest city in New England nor is it the ugly stepsister of Boston; Worcester is in fact the hub for all things incredible. Food, business, tech and hospitality are only but a few elements keeping Worcester at top of everyone’s “what’s hot” list.

Chef Jared Forman at deadhorse hill in Worcester, MA.

Worcester Officials at the Ribbon Cutting for a New Local Business (submitted)

“Shop Local,”- this decal graces the doors of hundreds of independently-owned restaurants ranging from New York City to Portland, Maine. Vibrantly colored and overly sized, the message of the decal is clear – support local businesses. The feel-good notion when shopping local isn’t just about self-pride and organic products but instead, it is a statement of quality, pride and community investment. For decades, the food fight between big food chain restaurants and independently-owned restaurants has caused a stir too thick to ignore.

The city of Worcester is currently undergoing a boom where businesses, both large and small, are setting roots with long term investments.

Digging deep into the underbelly of the “beef,” researchers take a step closer into the analysis of how money flows, the economic and social responsibilities and the impression left on the communities with a larger inclination to either small or big businesses.

With the expansion of global chains increasing in market share, there is a displacement of locally owned, independent businesses. The pace at which the market share shrinks for locals is staggering. According to the National Restaurant Association, restaurant industry sales are projected to reach $783 billion in 2016 – remaining as the nation’s second largest private sector employer with a workforce of 14.4 million. In a new report from food industry research firm NPD Group, last year the total number of chain restaurants increased by more than 3,200 locations while over 7,100 independent eateries closed up shop in 2015.

Tim Murray, President and CEO of the Worcester Chamber of Commerce, understands the economic impacts of shopping local: “There is no doubt that the money spent through local businesses and restaurants is cycled through the community longer than that of big box retail. Worcester has turned into a ‘foodie hub’ due its entrepreneurial spirit. I have tremendous respect and admiration for the shop local movement and at The Chamber of Commerce we boost local businesses and empower our members. Just few years ago, the Worcester food scene was restricted to Shrewsbury Street and Highland Street and now, it continues to grow into other areas to increase diversity and reach the exciting ethnic background of the city. I want a local vibrant food scene, and we are heading in the right direction.”

Executive Chef Damien Evangelous prepares dishes at Armsby Abbey with locally sourced, sustainable ingredients.

Eating local is not a newly discovered concept but instead a concept revisited over and over again since the early 70s. Take a step closer and visit the theory of shop local from Midcoast Maine. In 2003, a study by Institute for Local Self-Reliance was concluded that despite the economic growth of big boxed food chains, the money reflected back into the local economy was slim in comparison to the independently-owned restaurants. While the study concluded findings based on eight locally owned businesses, the numbers were undeniable. The study states in terms of sourcing inventory, supplies, and services, it was found that the local businesses are supporting a variety of other local businesses. Chain stores were said to spend less than 15% of revenue within the state, while locally owned businesses spend more than half of their revenue within the state.

According to Executive Chef of Armsby Abbey, Damian Evangelous, it is extremely difficult to source all restaurant products locally. “Our menu is probably sourced between 70 and 80 percent locally – mostly Central Massachusetts but including New England and parts of New York – and during the peak season, I work hard to increase that number. We are not just trying to source locally, we are also seeking products from local farmers and producers who are working to produce the best, healthiest, sustainable product possible. We want to show that some of the most delicious food we could possibly imagine is available right here in our region.”

The big food chains continue to stagger in quantity within developing cities but all at the expense of the little guy.

Even at the most basic level of food consumption – purchasing vegetables – has become an eye-opening experience for many. The New Economics Foundation, an independent economic think tank, compared locally purchased vegetables from farmer’s markets to those purchase at supermarkets. The foundation found that twice the money stayed in the community when purchased through locally owned farmer’s markets. David Boyle, author and NEF researcher, told Time, “That means those purchases are twice as efficient in terms of keeping the local economy alive.”

Lynn Stromberg from Lettuce Be Local seen on site with local produce (Photo by Joe Santa Maria, Kill the Ball Media)

The preconceived notion that big businesses offer food at a cheaper rate may be true. It is a statement that can be heard echoing through the various debates between the big chain enthusiasts and local shop supporters. Big food chains are wooing consumers with their endless discounts and promotional deals, offering a night on the town without breaking the bank. But Susan Witt, Executive Director of the E.F. Schumacher Society added that the difference [in price] falls away once you consider the increase in local employment as well as relationships that grow when people buy from people they know. Witt states the “shop local” campaign can signify an alert to the community about gaps in the local market, allowing locally-owned businesses to provide a product hard to come by.

“We are able to source locally by consistently changing our menu with the seasons and growing patterns of the local sources,” says Tom Studer, General Manager of Lock 50. “We bring in new creative techniques and practices with our local sources to provide customers with a quality that no chain can offer. Smaller restaurants, us included, have the ability to sell fish that came off the boat this afternoon, tomatoes that were picked an hour before they hit the dishes and herbs that are grown by the Chefs themselves.”

While the pricing of the independently-owned restaurants seems higher and according to Witt, justifiable, there are several other elements to consider when debating over the increased menu prices. Lowered transportation, hence lower environmental factors. The money – while not usually taken in as a large sum of profit for locally owned restaurants – is cycled through the local economy. David Morris, Vice President of the Institute for Local Self-Reliance, a nonprofit economic research and development organization based in Minneapolis and Washington, D.C. says, “That means more goes into input costs – supplies and upkeep, printing, advertising, paying employees – which puts that money right back into the community.”

“While our biggest goal is to be the direct correlation between locally-owned restaurants, Chefs and consumers, we also aim to boost the local economy by supporting local small businesses to help with graphic design, print product, and marketing material – to name a few. We also work with the local schools and hospitals to be a supplier for their food needs but also to educate the youth on the importance of food and source,” says Lynn Stromberg, owner of Lettuce Be Local – a food hub committed to strengthening the community through healthy eating direct from local farms. “I will search the ends of earth for services from a local business for Lettuce Be Local. If we are boosting local farms, restaurants and schools, then it is only appropriate to enforce the Shop Local concept through our business needs.”

According to a collection of studies from The Institute for Local Self-Reliance, it states that in recent decades, policy across the country has privileged the biggest corporations. Yet a growing body of research is providing something that many citizens already know: small scale, locally-owned businesses create communities that are more prosperous, entrepreneurial, connected and generally better across a wide range of metrics.

The economic returns, as stated in the Independent BC: Small Business and The British Columbia Economy study, among restaurants, for every $1,000,000 in sales, independents generate a figure of $650,000 in local economic activity versus $300,000 for chains. Across both sectors, this translates into about 2.6 times as many local jobs created when spending is directed to independent businesses instead of chains.

Shopping local doesn’t translate into anti-big food chains, but instead it translates into more local job opportunities, higher velocity of money, larger support of several locally-owned businesses through affiliations, improved quality and most of all, the growth and development of cities, residents and social value.

Tag: Tom Studer

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