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Worcester’s Top 17 Food and Restaurant Stories of 2017

Simjang will open in 2017 on Shrewsbury Street, in former Sweet location.

In 2017, Worcester’s restaurant scene welcomed a number of newcomers to the table in our proverbial dining room, which continues to grow at a rapid rate. Ramen bowls, butcher blocks, Szechuan sandwiches, and wine wars all found their welcome here. Still, a few of our biggest breaks bid so long (and in one case, good riddance) to members of the culinary community. Here are the top 17 Mass Foodies stories of 2017:

    1. Sweet ClosesTelevision darling, Alina Eisenhauer announced Sweet Kitchen and Bar’s last day of service in July. The closing marked a new beginning for Eisenhauer who has turned her attention to consulting, private events, and the growth of her YouTube channel.
    2. Broth: The minds behind The Hangover Pub launched a new concept in October called Broth. The adjacent space marked an entry point for ramen in Worcester, toting approachable bowls inspired by American traditions like Thanksgiving. Executive Chef Michael Arrastia explained to Mass Foodies that the inspiration for Broth came during a visit to momofuku, citing his admiration for Chef David Chang.
    3. simjang: Upon Sweet’s exit, the deadhorse hill team unveiled their plans for a new concept at 72 Shrewsbury Street called simjang – a concept dedicated to Korean culture and cuisine. Mass Foodies was awarded the first look inside, where internationally renowned artist Arlin Graff was hard at work on a heartfelt custom mural. Executive Chef Jared Forman gleaned plenty of experience in his three years working for Chef David Chang at momofuku noodle bar and momofuku Ssäm Bar. You can kiss 2017 goodbye and needle deadhorse employees for the simjang scoop as they recreate an original menu from the historic Bay State House hotel on New Year’s Eve.
    4. The Queen’s Cups Relocates to the Canal District: The Canal District erupted with excitement last January when The Queen’s Cups announced that it would be moving to Worcester. Since then, the previous home of Bucky’s Garage has been overtaken with cupcakes, pupcakes, and Mass Foodies’ personal favorite – Matildas. Perhaps the biggest success story of all is that owner Renee King has established 56 Water Street as a wifi-free-zone where friends and neighbors gather regularly to share in one another’s company. Unimaginable!
    5. Nonna’s & STEAM on Ice: In February, Niche Hospitality Group outlined its fast-casual bundle for the Worcester Ice Center as an integral piece of Cliff Rucker’s community hockey vision. A year later, Nonna’s Pizza & Pasta and STEAM Energy Cafe have officially opened their doors (and their parking lots) to the Canal District neighborhood.
    6. Sonoma Checks Into The BeechwoodSonoma Restaurant surprised everyone in May when chef/owner Bill Brady announced that he would be relocating his highly regarded Princeton establishment to the four diamond Beechwood Hotel in Worcester. For Brady, the shift meant a departure from his role at Worcester Technical School in order to keep up with the demands of a full service restaurant.
    7. KummerspeckAll eyes were on Rachel Coit and Matt Mahoney, proprietors of Kummerspeck. Kummerspeck, which translates from German as “grief bacon,” opened in August after a series of local pop ups. The Water Street eatery serves up reimagined comfort food as well as the adventurous offerings of a classic butchershop. Both chefs cut their teeth in Boston’s dining scene, working for famed chef/restaurateur, Barbara Lynch. Coit, former Sportello sous Chef, and Mahoney, former ButcherShop chef de cuisine, eased into the central Mass dining scene with stints at BT’s Smokehouse and Armsby Abbey.
    8. The Rice TruckTeri Goulette first worked her way into our hearts with one of the region’s most popular food trailers, Say Cheese! August marked the purchase of Goulette’s first official food truck, The Rice Truck, inspired by her mother’s famous fried rice recipe.
    9. Sushi Miyazawa: Chef and Owner Norihiko “Nori” Tsukuda boasts 30 years of sushi experience, including his time training with the chef to the Emperor of Japan. In July, Mass Foodies was introduced to Sushi Miyazawa’s modest decor as well as its modest prices. The Chandler Street space seats just 20 customers at a time and allows patrons to BYOB.
    10. Rogers Leaves Niche for Food Hub: It seemed Chef Rogers was everywhere in 2017. As the Executive Chef de Cuisine of Niche Hospitality Group, Rogers forged relationships in countless facets of the community. In many ways, Rogers’ announcement in March that he had accepted a position as Kitchen Operations Manager of the Worcester Regional Food Hub came as no surprise. Given his staunch commitment to the city of Worcester, it was only a matter of time before his humanitarian nature led him down the path to public service.
The Usual on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA
The Usual on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA
    1. The Usual, The Chameleon, and The Conviction: Someone else exited Worcester’s restaurant scene on the very same day as Chef Rogers, albeit less gracefully. Owner of now defunct establishments, The Blackstone Tap and The Usual, Kevin A. Perry was arrested and charged in connection with using the proceeds of drug sales to purchase and renovate nine properties in Worcester County, including both restaurants. Soon after, The Usual became The Chameleon, which we found shuttered in November. This week, we learned U.S. District Judge Timothy Hillman granted government control for sale of both properties. Here’s hoping 2018 brings a fresh start.
    2. Worcester Wine Festival: In October, Worcester’s Inaugural Wine Festival drew over 1,300 attendees to festivities that included a grand tasting, brunches, paired dinners, and educational seminars. Mass Foodies is already looking forward to another round of wine events in 2018 from September 4th-9th.
    3. Mama Roux: Jonathan Demoga’s custom food trailer, Mama Roux, took up residency in The Dive Bar’s beer garden in May. Demoga gained his expertise in southern cuisine while working for the famed Brennan Family of New Orleans. Mama Roux has already built a cult following around its Szechuan Hot Chicken Sandwich which is very particular in its use of Regal Crown Pickles, an artisan pickle producer based in Worcester. The coveted sandwich is made with buttermilk fried free-range organic chicken thighs, doused with szechuan spiced chili oil, and served on a Martin’s potato roll.
    4. JosephineIn November, The Hanover Theatre for the Performing Arts announced that Chris Rassias of Holden had signed a lease to open Josephine, a new restaurant anticipated to launch before the close of their spring season. Rassias shared with Mass Foodies that the concept would be inspired by the traditional aesthetic of 1920’s theater.
    5. Farewell to Chef Evangelous: In December, Armsby Abbey owner Sherri Sadowski wrote a heartfelt goodbye to longtime Executive Chef Damian Evangelous who will be moving to California with his wife Lauren (Revelry Coffee) in February. Executive Sous Chef Sean Dacey will assume his role as the new head of Armsby Abbey’s kitchen.
Valentino's opening in May on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA
Valentino’s opening in May on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA
  1. Valentino’s: In April we had hope that the dormant former home of Cafe Dolce would find a rebirth with the ushering in of Valentino’s Press and Pour. While “press and pour” connotes morning for most, Valentino’s hours are geared toward afternoon and evening customers with the exception of Sunday brunch. If Cafe Dolce could make it work in the aughts, we’re sure they will too, but the coffee program absolutely needs sprucing.
  2. Bootlegger’s Folds to Living Earth: We weren’t surprised when we learned in September that Bootlegger’s Prohibition Pub would be closing in favor of a Living Earth expansion. The Chandler Street sign reading, “SECRET ENTRANCE AROUND BACK,” was a little on the nose. Regardless, Mass Foodies is crazy for all-natural, wholesome shopping and as far as we’re concerned, Living Earth is a Worcester institution.
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Armsby Abbey Bids Farewell to Longtime Executive Chef Damian Evangelous

Armsby Abbey's Executive Chef Damian Evangelous.

Armsby Abbey shared today that Executive Chef Damian Evangelous will roll up his knives for the last time in February and say goodbye to the place he has called home for the better part of a decade. He and his family plan to resettle in California in coming months, after enjoying a brief sojourn in Spain. The restaurant has officially announced that Executive Sous Chef, Sean Dacey, will assume the position of Executive Chef upon Damian’s exit in February 2018. Owner Sherri Sadowski was kind enough to reflect on Evangelous’ time at Armsby Abbey in the following exclusive for Mass Foodies:

In December 2009, I received an email from a young chef named Damian Evangelous. At the time, Damian was living in Spain, researching area restaurants that he would be interested in working for upon his return that January. While Armsby Abbey was not hiring at the time, I was smart enough to know, you never pass up a talented culinary candidate. I emailed Damian back immediately. I just had a feeling. At Armsby, we are all about hiring the right person for the job and sometimes those people are worth waiting for. I left it to Damian to follow-up with us upon his return; within 48 hours being stateside, we were chatting all things food and drink at Armsby Abbey. That was how it all began.

Born and raised in Sturbridge, Massachusetts, Damian knew he wanted to cook early on. I remember him telling me, “I’ve wanted to be a Chef since I was 12! I would watch ‘Emeril Live’ every day when I was in junior high and it got me so interested in cooking food, it was then I decided my career path.”

In fact, it was Damian’s participation in the Culinary Program at Tantasqua High School that would lead him to apply to the New England Culinary Institute in Vermont where he would further fall in love with his craft. Upon graduation, Damian moved to sunny San Diego for work where he would not only gain valuable experience working with incredible produce from the likes of Chino Farms, but also meet his future wife, Lauren.

After seeing the culinary series ‘Made in Spain’ with Chef Jose Andres, Damian was drawn to the idea of living and working in Spain. Soon thereafter in 2009, as life would have it, Damian and Lauren left San Diego together for a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to work at San Sebastian in the Basque Country of Northern Spain. It was here that Damian fell in love with the Spanish culture and culinary scene, elements he would later infuse his menus with.

Upon moving back to Massachusetts in 2010, Damian was offered a culinary position at our new farm-to-table restaurant in Worcester, Armsby Abbey, under then Executive Chef/Owner, Alec Lopez. Alec recalls, “When Damian first arrived in my kitchen, though a bit green, his passion, intuition and raw talent made it clear to me he would go places. Creating an environment for Damian to flourish became my focus.” And flourish he did.

Damian was constantly chasing the next opportunity. In the Fall of 2012, after applying for, and receiving, an illustrious position to work with one of his idols, Jose Andres, Damian left Armsby Abbey and moved to Washington D.C. to be part of the re-opening team at Minibar. He says, “Working for Jose Andres at Minibar changed the way I thought about food and what was possible. Jose’s mission of ‘changing the world with the power of food’ is one of my constant motivations.”

Upon completion of the position at Minibar, Damian returned to Massachusetts in the Spring of 2013 with a reinvigorated spirit and desire to connect customers to the food on their plate. Timing is everything; Armsby Abbey was wrapping up construction on their newly expanded kitchen and dining room at which time Executive Chef/Owner, Alec Lopez, was about to hang up his apron as Executive Chef. It was at this time that Damian was offered the opportunity to return to Armsby Abbey, only this time as Executive Chef, and the rest is as they say, history.

Chef Evangelous has been the backbone of Armsby Abbey for almost 8 years. Under his knife, Armsby Abbey has won culinary awards both locally and nationally throughout his tenure, including: Worcester Magazine’s Best Chef, Best Farm-to-Table Restaurant, Best Overall Restaurant, and Best Sunday Brunch (9 years in a row!)

Damian’s unique menu items have been featured in the Boston Globe, Telegram & Gazette, Worcester Magazine, Worcester Living, Plate Magazine, and Chef’s Collaborative. He has prepared multi-course beer dinners with some of the World’s most respected brewers; Shaun Hill of Hill Farmstead, JC & Esther Tetreault of Trillium Brewing, Nate Lanier of Tree House Brewing Company. He has cooked for the likes of Naomi Watts, Zakk Wylde, Jean Van Roy, Manchester Orchestra, Anthrax, the cast of Cirque du Soleil, and so many more.

This past Summer, Chef Evangelous was one of 25 chosen Chefs from around the country to be awarded a coveted scholarship to the 2017 Chefs Collaborative Summit in Atlanta, Georgia, for his work on helping to improve local sustainable food systems.

Chef Evangelous preparing the reception course in the kitchen of Armsby Abbey on Main Street in Worcester, MA (Photo by Erb Photography)
Chef Evangelous preparing the reception course in the kitchen of Armsby Abbey on Main Street in Worcester, MA (Photo by Erb Photography)

The kitchen is the backbone of any restaurant; at Armsby Abbey this is no different. Executive Chef Evangelous commands a team of culinary wizards who work tirelessly assisting him in his mission. Executive Sous Chef, Sean Dacey, a seasoned area Chef, joined Armsby Abbey’s culinary squad shortly after Damian’s return in 2013. Together, the two Chefs have worked side-by-side as a tightknit team who complement each other’s personalities perfectly. Sean shares, “Damian’s ability to exclusively source locally raised, sustainable food has been unlike anything I have experienced in my career. Worcester has been very fortunate to have a chef of his caliber and knowledge advancing our culinary scene while challenging our industry to raise their standards.”

In addition, happy-go-lucky Sous Chef, Nate Rossi, joined Armsby Abbey 3 years ago and rounds out the kitchen’s Executive trio. “Essentially my job is to make Sean and Damian’s job easier,” Nate states with a smile.

Damian loves being a chef. You can see it in how he works. You feel it when you are in his kitchen. You can taste it in every bite. Armsby Abbey will simply not be the same without him. This past October, Chef Evangelous handed in his resignation. Come early February, Damian will head west once more. He says, “It’s hard to find the words to describe my time at Armsby Abbey. It has been many things for me but if I had to choose one in this particular moment I would say it has been formative. Armsby has allowed me to grow not only as a Chef but also as a person. Reflecting on how much I have learned about food, about leading people, about myself, and realizing that there is no end to that journey, is both humbling and inspiring. Joining the team nearly eight years ago, it was clear from the first time I spoke with Alec and Sherri that there was passion and conviction in everything done at Armsby Abbey. It was an environment where compromising the vision was not an option. This attitude gave me pride in what we do and the confidence to push myself to always be improving. There is much I am going to miss about Armsby but what I will miss the most is the people, the team. I’ve been fortunate enough to meet many great people in my time here and leaving is one of the hardest things I will ever do.”

While change is always difficult, it is necessary to experience growth. As Damian readies himself to embark on a new chapter in California with his wife Lauren, and baby girl by his side, Armsby Abbey is preparing to celebrate its 10th Anniversary and adjust to a kitchen without Damian at the helm. As Owner and General Manager, I regard Damian with the utmost respect. Damian is so much more than just a Chef here at Armsby Abbey; he is family. Saying goodbye to those who have been with us since the beginning is very difficult. Damian has been an integral part of our success; he is an artist – a creative genius who always gives 110%. In securing his replacement, albeit a challenge, we are confident his predecessor will continue his vision and maintain the highest standards of sustainability and ethical, conscientious sourcing.

Executive Sous Chef, Sean Dacey, will assume the position of Executive Chef upon Damian’s exit come 2018. Chef Dacey’s commanding presence demands attention as he reflects on his time with Chef Evangelous and his recent promotion, stating, “It has been an honor to work with Damian these past four years, and it is truly humbling to be chosen to continue Alec, Sherri, and Damian’s legacy here at Armsby Abbey. I look forward to continuing creating food that highlights the best of New England’s farms.”

Owner, Alec Lopez, also took a moment to look back on his time with Chef Evangelous over the last 8 years, saying, “Through his dedication and commitment to our local food systems, patience in guiding those coming up around him and the continued honing of his technique Damian has become an inspiration and force in the culinary world. Once upon a time, my role was to teach him as he worked in my kitchen, but the truth is, he taught me. I’m a better Chef for having worked with Damian.”

In closing, an emotional Chef Damian would like to share a moment of reflection looking toward the future. “Armsby Abbey has a great team of people who will continue to carry the mission I have made my life and I couldn’t be more confident in passing the torch to my Executive Sous Chef, Sean Dacey. He has been an integral part of the team since I took over as Executive Chef and a dedicated patron before that – he truly lives the mission. Having him by my side has been instrumental in the success of our kitchen. So, while this is a bittersweet moment for me, I take comfort in knowing Armsby Abbey is in good hands and I look forward to watching the next chapter unfold…only this time from the other side with a beer in hand!” Chef Evangelous closes with a wry grin.