Tag: One Eleven Chop House

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New Movement in Central Massachusetts Restaurants

An artist rendition of the AC Hotel at City Square in downtown Worcester, MA.

“Worcester is in the midst of a bona fide restaurant renaissance,” according to The Boston Globe… but we knew that all along. Worcester has been on the food scene for quite some time, since the introductions of our infamous restaurant staples like Armsby Abbey, Nuovo, VIA Italian Table, Red Pepper, The Niche Hospitality Group locations and Baba Sushi, pinning Worcester at the top of the list for food destination scenes in Massachusetts for years.

Naturally, to compete with the sophisticated and trendy restaurants of major cities like Boston, New York and Chicago, Worcester is in a constant state of evolution – creating and recreating the dining experience with a diverse portfolio tending to every unique craving.

Carving meat from the skewer Terra Brasilis on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA.
Carving meat from the skewer Terra Brasilis on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA.

In 2016, Worcester experienced a core-shaking boom in the food industry as it said “goodbye” to long loved restaurants that made Worcester history come to life and “hello” to the newbies making headlines and turning everyone’s focus to the abundance of quality in local food.

“There are hungry people out here who don’t want to and don’t have to commute into Boston for a great meal,” says Jared Forman, a native of Queens, New York and Executive Chef at deadhorse hill. “If you look down Main Street from where we are, I feel like I am on one beautiful street in New York. Nothing has changed and anything is possible,” says Forman’s business partner, Sean Woods. As co-owners of deadhorse hill – which opened early 2016 – their sole mission is to create a restaurant that specializes in what they call “modern hospitality.” “That means comfortable and being welcomed. Making you feel welcome as soon as you walk in the door and elevate it so that the service is proper but at the same time super casual,” said Forman when describing his inspiration of modern hospitality from Danny Meyer – a crown jewel of the restaurant hospitality business in New York.

But deadhorse hill isn’t the only newcomer to the vibrant Central Massachusetts food scene that sees Worcester as the champ of the much-deserved title “food hub.” In the first ten months of 2016, Worcester became the new stomping grounds to over 15 restaurants, anticipating an additional six opening in the beginning of 2017.

“At first, we thought, ‘why would anyone open a restaurant in Worcester?’ but after visiting and really taking a closer look we wondered why people weren’t running to Worcester to take the opportunity of opening a restaurant,” says Jack Doherty, co-owner of Brew on the Grid. Brew on the Grid is a modern twist on the average cup of coffee, giving patrons a little hint of big city in every cup of joe. Opened in August 2016, Brew on the Grid is part of a grand model – five eateries within two city blocks, each offering up a little flavor to something different. By the end of the anticipated year, Brew on the Grid will be neighbors to Techni (a Mediterranean grill), Pie & Pint (a fast casual pizza house), Craft Table & Bar (a casual restaurant featuring top craft beers, spirits and innovative dishes) and The End: Eatery and Drinkery (a high-end eatery to end the week).

The Greek Burrito from The Sandwich Place in Worcester, MA
The Greek Burrito from The Sandwich Place in Worcester, MA

Don’t be fooled. Downtown Worcester may be the city’s flagship location for up and coming opportunities, but it isn’t the only place in Worcester offering residents a slice of city pie. A short distance from downtown is Dacosta’s Pizza Bakery, a contender for truly authentic pizza and Italian dishes that will keep even Boston’s pizza scene on their toes. Also, a short distance from downtown, Park Avenue’s changes have the promise to be a big part of the city’s food hub. Recently joining the Park Ave food scene is Pho Bowl, Antonio’s Pizza By The Slice, Bootleggers Prohibition Pub and Altea – a sister restaurant of Livia’s Dish, as well as The Sandwich Hut. “I owned Wingman on Park Ave and felt that the wing themed restaurant was becoming oversaturated in Worcester, so after an unfortunate mishap with our refrigerating system, we opened The Sandwich Hut,” says Pat Logan, owner of The Sandwich Hut. “Worcester doesn’t have a place that focuses on specialty sandwiches on Park Ave and we thought this would be a great place to add one.”

An entree from Bootleggers in Worcester, MA
A scallop entree from Bootleggers in Worcester, MA

Not too far away from Park Avenue’s busy streets is the iconic Shrewsbury Street (aka Restaurant Row) – the home to some of Worcester’s favorite dining spots like Sweet Kitchen & Bar, One Eleven Chop House, Piccolo’s and Pomir Grill. This year we welcomed British Beer Company—a “chain” that has taken a vested interest in the heart of the Commonwealth; Terra Brasilis, a Brazilian BBQ restaurant joined the every-changing street; and another newcomer is expected to join us by the end of the year, The Usual, opening in The Fix’s original space, and isn’t about your usual homemade sandwich. Instead it stands to make a name for itself by offering specialty sandwiches unlike any other – with some requiring a fork and knife. “We want to give the sandwiches a new look and feel. There’s no other place focusing on specialty sandwiches and we are here to make it happen,” says Kevin Perry, co-owner.

Roasted beets with creamy goat cheese, baby Kale and Blood Orange form Lock 50 on Water Street in Worcester, MA
Roasted beets with creamy goat cheese, baby Kale and Blood Orange form Lock 50 on Water Street in Worcester, MA

Shrewsbury Street may be iconic to Worcester residents, but it is not the only place in the city giving you a chance to indulge your senses. The Canal District won the food lotto with the recent additions of Lock 50 and The Hangover Pub. “At Lock 50 we have found a great location in the Canal District, with the new development projects and upswing of the area we find ourselves to be a centerpiece in the District,” says Tom Studer of Lock 50. “Our concept of small plates has been widely embraced at this point. We have started to see customers come all the way from Boston, Providence and Portsmouth to experience what we have to offer. We also have a variety of events, a great patio and our Cafe program has bridged us into a great relationship with the arts community. We are heavily involved in the Canal District Art Walk,” he added.

CIDER BRAISED STATLER CHICKEN from The Hangover Pub on Green Street in Worcester, MA
CIDER BRAISED STATLER CHICKEN: Sherry cream, apple, bacon, Yukon gold potatoes, Brussel Sprouts

With many great new additions, it is only natural to part with some of the restaurants that made our foodie hearts melt. We tip our chef hats to those we have said goodbye to in 2016: Somethin’ Catchy Seafood Shanty never “caught on” in Worcester (it has been sold and is under construction for an upcoming Brazilian themed location), Wingman (now the location of The Sandwich Hut), Perfect Game (oh, how we will miss you!), EVO (now the location of Bootleggers Prohibition Pub), and Shiraz Armenian Cuisine (a Park Avenue staple for over 20 years).

Worcester isn’t just the second largest city in New England nor is it the ugly stepsister of Boston; Worcester is in fact the hub for all things incredible. Food, business, tech and hospitality are only but a few elements keeping Worcester at top of everyone’s “what’s hot” list.

Chef Jared Forman at deadhorse hill in Worcester, MA
Chef Jared Forman at deadhorse hill in Worcester, MA.
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Composure On A Plate: Mark Hawley’s Vision To Evolve The Favorites

Mark Hawley, corporate executive chef, at for Worcester Restaurant Group (Photograph by Alex Belisle)

Mark Hawley loves getting his butt kicked.

“That’s what drives me,” he says. “I love sports. I love working. And I love what I do. The adrenaline rush of a busy night is enjoyable. I like that challenge. It’s me saying, ‘You cannot beat me. I will be better than you.’”

Mark has had plenty of opportunities to prove his mettle in the weeds of kitchens in and around Worcester. He was the first chef at the ever-busy Flying Rhino, headed the line at 111 Chop House, and was the top guy at the bustling VIA Italian Table for the last three-plus years.

But now Mark Hawley faces a very different challenge – and his biggest yet. He’ll have three kitchens trying to kick his ass this fall when he officially takes over as corporate executive chef for the Worcester Restaurant Group’s (WRG) three restaurants: VIA Italian Table, 111 Chop House, and the Sole Proprietor.

Mark relishes the challenge.

Mark Hawley in the kitchen at VIA Italian Table (Photograph by Alex Belisle)
Mark Hawley in the kitchen at VIA Italian Table (Photograph by Alex Belisle)

“I don’t know if it’s just me getting older or having kids now but I really enjoy managing people. I like the different personalities – from one kitchen to the next it is completely different. But it’s familiar to me too. Besides having already worked at two of the restaurants most everyone knows me, and I go to The Sole every morning to pick up fish so I see the guys in the kitchen there. It is very different than having someone new off the streets come and do it.”

And there are plenty of new people on those Worcester streets these days. In the nearly twenty years Mark has boomeranged between some of Shrewsbury Street’s most established eateries, the Worcester food, restaurant, and chef scene has blown up around him. It can be hard to keep track of the next “It” place. By contrast, VIA, the newest jewel in the WRG crown, opened nearly a decade ago. 111 Chop House is coming up on two decades. And the remarkable Sole Proprietor has been making sure something fishy happens on Highland Street for more than 35 years. Three very different restaurants – a fact that makes Mark’s job even more complicated and delicious.

“These are restaurants each with very different identities. No one would necessarily think that the three were related. Does that present an extra challenge? Yes and no. For me it is still food at the end of the day. Now the food is very different and the people are very different but I enjoy it because I get to cook a lot more stuff.” He’ll also let the chefs at each of the restaurants have their own voices, guiding them and coaching them. “Before it was more or less 100% of my work,” Mark added. “Now it will be more of a share.” (Customers have already seen a smaller version of that sharing in action at VIA: The summer’s Pig Roast was an idea that came up in a chef meeting and then was executed by Mark, who noted to my delight that the chicharrones are back on the menu now.)

In fact, VIA has always been a bit of a laboratory and food playground for Mark – a place with seasonal and varied menus and open to new ideas. He agrees with the perception that Chop House and The Sole are more fixed in their approaches, menus, and customers. “They are very much the same and that’s what customers expect. I have the same perception!” he adds. “We do a very good job at all three restaurants, but people have liked and expected X, Y, and Z at The Sole for 35 years.”

So how do you change that – develop new foods and thoughts and ideas and get the new and next generation of people in and still keep the current customers happy? All three WRG restaurants have survived and thrived but times have changed. There is perhaps no greater challenge for an established restaurant anywhere, especially when faced with the rush of the new: keep attracting customers with something fresh and current while keeping the one’s who got you there satisfied.

Mark agrees this is his biggest challenge and what he is most focused on with new ideas and dishes: “In the end,” Mark says, “it’s still all about educating customers. The Sole and the other restaurants need nothing when it comes to quality. We buy the best product we can and serve the best quality food with the best service at the best rate possible. The Sole serves the best fish money can buy. I want to update everything that comes with that fish right down to the plate it is served on.”

Meaning?

The Seared Scallops created by Mark Hawley in the kitchen at VIA Italian Table (Photograph by Alex Belisle)
The Seared Scallops created by Mark Hawley in the kitchen at VIA Italian Table (Photograph by Alex Belisle)

“For me my goal is to give The Sole a little more ‘composure,’ meaning composed dishes. I just want to put together dishes that they are going to enjoy. But for The Sole it will still be clean and simple but elevated – maybe start with a side they haven’t heard of or tried before. If squash is in season, there’s no need to do the same thing over and over. Maybe we ferment it or pickle it or puree it or roast it. We can change it up.”

As example of “composure on a plate,” Mark shows me a seared scallop dish he created for VIA served on a bed of seasonal succotash with a house-smoked tomato vinaigrette. There’s bacon, corn. pickled Fresno chilies. fava beans … it’s colorful, seasonal, fresh, and not so unfamiliar that it wouldn’t appeal to multiple generations.

“My personal challenge has always been to do new things with food,” adds Mark. “I keep playing with my food. I like salt and sweet and sour. I like pickling things and different textures. There is always some sort of crunch and heat. I like big and strong flavors. I like to mix and match very prominent flavors that together create something fantastic.”

Which is good because that’s what Mark knows customers are increasingly looking for: “The food bar has been set higher than it ever has. People are able to see all these cool concepts on TV and social media and they want it. They need to find it here. Everybody has to up their games. We have to keep giving people something that they can’t make it home. That they haven’t seen before. We have to strive to be a little more cutting-edge. We can’t just give them the same old food. Which is great for me. I took over the Rhino when I was 19 years old. I’ve always been on my own. I’ve always been teaching myself and learning new things.”

Which is why the arrival of the new restaurants makes Mark happy too. It means more people coming to Worcester to eat. It means everyone right down to his employees need to be better, not scared. “I love these new restaurants popping up,” he adds “deadhorse hill and Lock 50 and others? It’s fantastic. Why should you have to drive to Providence? Why should you have to drive to Boston?”

And if anyone has any doubt that he understands what he needs to do in the future, Mark may have the perfect personal story capturing how he reconciles transformation and continuity without getting his butt kicked: He has two boys, five and three, and they eat everything, including those scallops and (without any cajoling) broccoli. But when they come into VIA? “They go straight for the gelato.”

The more things change . . .