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New Movement in Central Massachusetts Restaurants

An artist rendition of the AC Hotel at City Square in downtown Worcester, MA.

“Worcester is in the midst of a bona fide restaurant renaissance,” according to The Boston Globe… but we knew that all along. Worcester has been on the food scene for quite some time, since the introductions of our infamous restaurant staples like Armsby AbbeyNuovo, VIA Italian Table, Red PepperThe Niche Hospitality Group locations and Baba Sushi, pinning Worcester at the top of the list for food destination scenes in Massachusetts for years.

Naturally, to compete with the sophisticated and trendy restaurants of major cities like Boston, New York and Chicago, Worcester is in a constant state of evolution – creating and recreating the dining experience with a diverse portfolio tending to every unique craving.

Carving meat from the skewer Terra Brasilis on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA.
Carving meat from the skewer Terra Brasilis on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA.

In 2016, Worcester experienced a core-shaking boom in the food industry as it said “goodbye” to long loved restaurants that made Worcester history come to life and “hello” to the newbies making headlines and turning everyone’s focus to the abundance of quality in local food.

“There are hungry people out here who don’t want to and don’t have to commute into Boston for a great meal,” says Jared Forman, a native of Queens, New York and Executive Chef at deadhorse hill. “If you look down Main Street from where we are, I feel like I am on one beautiful street in New York. Nothing has changed and anything is possible,” says Forman’s business partner, Sean Woods. As co-owners of deadhorse hill – which opened early 2016 – their sole mission is to create a restaurant that specializes in what they call “modern hospitality.” “That means comfortable and being welcomed. Making you feel welcome as soon as you walk in the door and elevate it so that the service is proper but at the same time super casual,” said Forman when describing his inspiration of modern hospitality from Danny Meyer – a crown jewel of the restaurant hospitality business in New York.

But deadhorse hill isn’t the only newcomer to the vibrant Central Massachusetts food scene that sees Worcester as the champ of the much-deserved title “food hub.” In the first ten months of 2016, Worcester became the new stomping grounds to over 15 restaurants, anticipating an additional six opening in the beginning of 2017.

“At first, we thought, ‘why would anyone open a restaurant in Worcester?’ but after visiting and really taking a closer look we wondered why people weren’t running to Worcester to take the opportunity of opening a restaurant,” says Jack Doherty, co-owner of Brew on the Grid. Brew on the Grid is a modern twist on the average cup of coffee, giving patrons a little hint of big city in every cup of joe. Opened in August 2016, Brew on the Grid is part of a grand model – five eateries within two city blocks, each offering up a little flavor to something different. By the end of the anticipated year, Brew on the Grid will be neighbors to Techni (a Mediterranean grill), Pie & Pint (a fast casual pizza house), Craft Table & Bar (a casual restaurant featuring top craft beers, spirits and innovative dishes) and The End: Eatery and Drinkery (a high-end eatery to end the week).

The Greek Burrito from The Sandwich Place in Worcester, MA
The Greek Burrito from The Sandwich Place in Worcester, MA

Don’t be fooled. Downtown Worcester may be the city’s flagship location for up and coming opportunities, but it isn’t the only place in Worcester offering residents a slice of city pie. A short distance from downtown is Dacosta’s Pizza Bakery, a contender for truly authentic pizza and Italian dishes that will keep even Boston’s pizza scene on their toes. Also, a short distance from downtown, Park Avenue’s changes have the promise to be a big part of the city’s food hub. Recently joining the Park Ave food scene is Pho Bowl, Antonio’s Pizza By The Slice, Bootleggers Prohibition Pub and Altea – a sister restaurant of Livia’s Dish, as well as The Sandwich Hut. “I owned Wingman on Park Ave and felt that the wing themed restaurant was becoming oversaturated in Worcester, so after an unfortunate mishap with our refrigerating system, we opened The Sandwich Hut,” says Pat Logan, owner of The Sandwich Hut. “Worcester doesn’t have a place that focuses on specialty sandwiches on Park Ave and we thought this would be a great place to add one.”

An entree from Bootleggers in Worcester, MA
A scallop entree from Bootleggers in Worcester, MA

Not too far away from Park Avenue’s busy streets is the iconic Shrewsbury Street (aka Restaurant Row) – the home to some of Worcester’s favorite dining spots like Sweet Kitchen & Bar, One Eleven Chop House, Piccolo’s and Pomir Grill. This year we welcomed British Beer Company—a “chain” that has taken a vested interest in the heart of the Commonwealth; Terra Brasilis, a Brazilian BBQ restaurant joined the every-changing street; and another newcomer is expected to join us by the end of the year, The Usual, opening in The Fix’s original space, and isn’t about your usual homemade sandwich. Instead it stands to make a name for itself by offering specialty sandwiches unlike any other – with some requiring a fork and knife. “We want to give the sandwiches a new look and feel. There’s no other place focusing on specialty sandwiches and we are here to make it happen,” says Kevin Perry, co-owner.

Roasted beets with creamy goat cheese, baby Kale and Blood Orange form Lock 50 on Water Street in Worcester, MA
Roasted beets with creamy goat cheese, baby Kale and Blood Orange form Lock 50 on Water Street in Worcester, MA

Shrewsbury Street may be iconic to Worcester residents, but it is not the only place in the city giving you a chance to indulge your senses. The Canal District won the food lotto with the recent additions of Lock 50 and The Hangover Pub. “At Lock 50 we have found a great location in the Canal District, with the new development projects and upswing of the area we find ourselves to be a centerpiece in the District,” says Tom Studer of Lock 50. “Our concept of small plates has been widely embraced at this point. We have started to see customers come all the way from Boston, Providence and Portsmouth to experience what we have to offer. We also have a variety of events, a great patio and our Cafe program has bridged us into a great relationship with the arts community. We are heavily involved in the Canal District Art Walk,” he added.

CIDER BRAISED STATLER CHICKEN from The Hangover Pub on Green Street in Worcester, MA
CIDER BRAISED STATLER CHICKEN: Sherry cream, apple, bacon, Yukon gold potatoes, Brussel Sprouts

With many great new additions, it is only natural to part with some of the restaurants that made our foodie hearts melt. We tip our chef hats to those we have said goodbye to in 2016: Somethin’ Catchy Seafood Shanty never “caught on” in Worcester (it has been sold and is under construction for an upcoming Brazilian themed location), Wingman (now the location of The Sandwich Hut), Perfect Game (oh, how we will miss you!), EVO (now the location of Bootleggers Prohibition Pub), and Shiraz Armenian Cuisine (a Park Avenue staple for over 20 years).

Worcester isn’t just the second largest city in New England nor is it the ugly stepsister of Boston; Worcester is in fact the hub for all things incredible. Food, business, tech and hospitality are only but a few elements keeping Worcester at top of everyone’s “what’s hot” list.

Chef Jared Forman at deadhorse hill in Worcester, MA
Chef Jared Forman at deadhorse hill in Worcester, MA.
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At Livia’s Dish, Fresh Means No Microwaves, No Freezers

You won't find a microwave or walking freezers in chef Mehillaj's kitchen

 

When chef Enton Mehillaj bought the former Pho 2000 restaurant on Worcester’s West Side, one of the first things he did was shut down the walk-in freezer. Ask him. He’ll show you. It’s dry storage now.

Livia's Dish's atmosphere is clean and fresh, much like the ingredients going onto each plate.
Livia’s Dish’s atmosphere is clean and fresh, much like the ingredients going onto each plate.

The term “fresh” has become cliche. But at Livia’s Dish, a small Italian/Mediterranean restaurant on Main Street near the Leicester border, fresh means baking their own bread for the paninis. It means there’s no microwave — although they’ll be happy to pour you a fresh cup of coffee if yours is getting cold. And it means pulling the plug on the walk-in and buying a small freezer to store ice cream.

A family operation, this little hidden gem is chef Mahillaj’s dream come true. His wife, Oriola, runs things out front while Mahillaj and crew keep the kitchen humming. He’s getting to do things his way now, after working in kitchens in Albania and then locally at Crowne Plaza, the Marriott and others. And, it’s working. Deliciously.

“We thought there was a need for a great breakfast/lunch place on the West Side,” Mahillaj said. Customers seem to agree.

Don’t let the size or location of the restaurant fool you. The Albanian-born Mahillaj knows his craft. In the two years since it’s opened, Livia’s Dish has become a favorite haunt for local foodies, primarily for the restaurant’s omelets at breakfast and paninis at lunchtime. But the menu runs far deeper than that. Like the stuffed pancakes, stuffed with apples and mascapone cheese.

A typical lunch might include the “chef’s panini,” a pressed sandwich with chipotle sauce, spinach, tomato, chicken cutlet and fresh mozzarella.

“I put it on the special and it was so popular I had to put it on the regular menu,” Mahillaj said.

And, don’t forget the french fries. Mahillaj is emphatic on this point. It’s a source of pride.

Burger Special at Livia's Dish on Main Street in Worcester, MA
“The french fries are to die for,” Majillaj says. “We peel them, we cut them, we let them soak in water just a little bit and then we fry them. There’s no double frying. A lot of people say hand cut fries but they blanch them in oil, take them out and put them back in oil again. We don’t do that.”

The food is Italian/Mediterranean, but there are a lot of influences. Mahjillaj went to cooking school in Albania before coming to the U.S. with his family in 1996 and has connections in Greece and Italy. Wednesday is $5 burger night. But these aren’t your typical burgers. They’ve got a little Mediterranean twist. Take the feta burger with feta cheese, olive tapenade, grilled tomato and Tzatziki sauce, a Greek sauce made with yogurt, cucumbers, garlic, salt and olive oil. In fact, most dishes at Livia’s seem to have their own little twist, like the fettuccini alfredo. It’s tossed with parmesan, parsley and butter, but then is topped with asparagus and a poached egg.

If the dishes sound terrific, don’t just take it on description. Mahillaj said outstanding reviews from customers on Yelp have helped spur business since opening two years ago. And for any good chef, that’s the real reward. “It’s a lot of hours, it’s a lot of hard work, but I just love doing this,” Mahillaj says.

Livia’s Dish is open Monday through Saturday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Sunday’s from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Additionally, they’re open for dinner Wednesday’s and Thursday’s from 4 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 4 to 10 p.m.

Worcester Foodies enjoying a meal at Livia's Dish
Worcester Foodies enjoying a meal at Livia’s Dish