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A Quick Bite With Joe Cox

Joe Cox, President of the Ecotarium in Worcester, sits down with Mass Foodies to talk food culture!

Success Magazine claims that the biggest three traits to success are bundled into three basic life functions – food, sleep and exercise – but when you are the President of a nature and science museum, utilizing all three life functions in it’s needed proportions can be difficult. While food is the almighty glue keeping our minds and bodies in constant motion, it is also the one factor of life that successful people tend to overlook. Whether it is a busy schedule or a lack of interest in cooking a four-course meal, the food routine of successful people can shock the world of nutritionists and health enthusiasts.

“One of my former employees would joke and say that I could get by on one can of diet coke and a handful of tic-tacs – just enough sugar and caffeine to keep me going for the day,” says Joseph Cox, President of the Ecotarium. “I mean, does a cup of coffee and a biscotti count as a meal?”

“As a single man running the Ecotarium, I seldom find the time to cook one meal a day, let alone three. Most often I’ll grab coffee in the morning and lunch is either meeting with supporters of the museum or a working lunch with staff, planning our next great program or exhibit,” says Cox. While sitting down to eat a stack of pancakes, scrambled eggs and toast isn’t on the morning schedule for Cox, he definitely makes up for his short mornings by full investing in dinner. With Worcester’s food hub growing in advanced speeds, there is no shortage of fine dining in the city. “I am fortunate Worcester has so many exceptional restaurants that allow me to keep my kitchen clean,” he says. On his top favorites list is the impeccable deadhorse hill, “For me, dinner is really best enjoyed as a social event and over the past few months, deadhorse hill has become my new dining room. The fantastic team there create one flawless – and often unexpected – dish after another.”

Cox is a man full of world travels and a diverse work portfolio. With a start as a graduate from St. Mary’s University in London with a degree in environmental science and earning a master’s degree in museum studies from the University of Leicester while completing a residency at the Getty Museum Leadership Institute and a fellowship in the museum practice at the Smithsonian Institution, Cox set out on the path to museum success with an abundance of worldly exposure. Before joining the team at the Ecotarium, Cox served as the nature center director for the Conservancy of Southwest Florida and the director of marketing for the Malta Ornithological Society, giving him the upper hand in seeing the full potential of the Ecotarium and giving him the one thing us foodie crave for – the ultimate taste palate. Traveling for work can be fun but the nights on the town, eating like the locals that are the best of times.

“I tend to stumble across local foods and enjoy the experience of the new tastes and sounds of a country. I am certainly more inclined to seek out a local spot than visit a chain restaurant. The best ceviche I’ve ever tasted was at a tiny bar on the side of a cliff in Mexico – we only discovered it because we rented a jeep to head off the beaten path,” says Cox. “I think I ate mofongo every day when I was in Puerto Rico and would certainly go back for that again.”

Growing up, Cox was raised on the Mediterranean flare. “My dad is English and my mum is Maltese so we grew up with a wonderful meals full of tomatoes, fresh fish, capers, olive oil and pasta – lots of pasta,” he says. “To me, that’s really my comfort food of choice. I do enjoy spending a few hours on a Sunday morning cooking up a giant batch of Bolognese sauce while listening to NPR. I’ll turn it into a spaghetti sauce, lasagna filling and even the basis for an old Mediterranean shepherd’s pie.”

“There is a delicious Maltese dish called “Hobz biz-Zejt” which essentially translates to “bread with oil.” It is a simple sandwich with crusty, sourdough bread slathered with tomato paste, chopped tomatoes, tuna, olives, capers and drizzled with olive oil. It is absolutely amazing and reminds me of home with every bite. My pantry at home looks a bit like that of my Nanna in Malta,” says Cox, reminiscent of his family traditions and Mediterranean heritage.

When Cox is not dining in his home away from home at deadhorse hill or making batches of Bolognese sauce, he is cruising around the city looking for the greatest dishes from the local top chefs. “I love the Cuban food at Cafe Reyes or the perfect tacos at El Patron. Since I am not a cook at home, I’d much rather go out to eat with friends and then go back to my place for cocktails,” he says.

He understands the foodie culture in Worcester and the food hub that is underway and not only does he appreciate every aspect of the variety of restaurants, but he is also encouraging his friends to come give us a try. Cox says, “With Worcester’s growing food scene coupled with our fantastic cultural institutions, I’m encouraging more and more friends from Boston, New York and further afield to pick us for a weekend foodie destination – and they are showing up in droves!”

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New Movement in Central Massachusetts Restaurants

An artist rendition of the AC Hotel at City Square in downtown Worcester, MA.

“Worcester is in the midst of a bona fide restaurant renaissance,” according to The Boston Globe… but we knew that all along. Worcester has been on the food scene for quite some time, since the introductions of our infamous restaurant staples like Armsby AbbeyNuovo, VIA Italian Table, Red PepperThe Niche Hospitality Group locations and Baba Sushi, pinning Worcester at the top of the list for food destination scenes in Massachusetts for years.

Naturally, to compete with the sophisticated and trendy restaurants of major cities like Boston, New York and Chicago, Worcester is in a constant state of evolution – creating and recreating the dining experience with a diverse portfolio tending to every unique craving.

Carving meat from the skewer Terra Brasilis on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA.
Carving meat from the skewer Terra Brasilis on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA.

In 2016, Worcester experienced a core-shaking boom in the food industry as it said “goodbye” to long loved restaurants that made Worcester history come to life and “hello” to the newbies making headlines and turning everyone’s focus to the abundance of quality in local food.

“There are hungry people out here who don’t want to and don’t have to commute into Boston for a great meal,” says Jared Forman, a native of Queens, New York and Executive Chef at deadhorse hill. “If you look down Main Street from where we are, I feel like I am on one beautiful street in New York. Nothing has changed and anything is possible,” says Forman’s business partner, Sean Woods. As co-owners of deadhorse hill – which opened early 2016 – their sole mission is to create a restaurant that specializes in what they call “modern hospitality.” “That means comfortable and being welcomed. Making you feel welcome as soon as you walk in the door and elevate it so that the service is proper but at the same time super casual,” said Forman when describing his inspiration of modern hospitality from Danny Meyer – a crown jewel of the restaurant hospitality business in New York.

But deadhorse hill isn’t the only newcomer to the vibrant Central Massachusetts food scene that sees Worcester as the champ of the much-deserved title “food hub.” In the first ten months of 2016, Worcester became the new stomping grounds to over 15 restaurants, anticipating an additional six opening in the beginning of 2017.

“At first, we thought, ‘why would anyone open a restaurant in Worcester?’ but after visiting and really taking a closer look we wondered why people weren’t running to Worcester to take the opportunity of opening a restaurant,” says Jack Doherty, co-owner of Brew on the Grid. Brew on the Grid is a modern twist on the average cup of coffee, giving patrons a little hint of big city in every cup of joe. Opened in August 2016, Brew on the Grid is part of a grand model – five eateries within two city blocks, each offering up a little flavor to something different. By the end of the anticipated year, Brew on the Grid will be neighbors to Techni (a Mediterranean grill), Pie & Pint (a fast casual pizza house), Craft Table & Bar (a casual restaurant featuring top craft beers, spirits and innovative dishes) and The End: Eatery and Drinkery (a high-end eatery to end the week).

The Greek Burrito from The Sandwich Place in Worcester, MA
The Greek Burrito from The Sandwich Place in Worcester, MA

Don’t be fooled. Downtown Worcester may be the city’s flagship location for up and coming opportunities, but it isn’t the only place in Worcester offering residents a slice of city pie. A short distance from downtown is Dacosta’s Pizza Bakery, a contender for truly authentic pizza and Italian dishes that will keep even Boston’s pizza scene on their toes. Also, a short distance from downtown, Park Avenue’s changes have the promise to be a big part of the city’s food hub. Recently joining the Park Ave food scene is Pho Bowl, Antonio’s Pizza By The Slice, Bootleggers Prohibition Pub and Altea – a sister restaurant of Livia’s Dish, as well as The Sandwich Hut. “I owned Wingman on Park Ave and felt that the wing themed restaurant was becoming oversaturated in Worcester, so after an unfortunate mishap with our refrigerating system, we opened The Sandwich Hut,” says Pat Logan, owner of The Sandwich Hut. “Worcester doesn’t have a place that focuses on specialty sandwiches on Park Ave and we thought this would be a great place to add one.”

An entree from Bootleggers in Worcester, MA
A scallop entree from Bootleggers in Worcester, MA

Not too far away from Park Avenue’s busy streets is the iconic Shrewsbury Street (aka Restaurant Row) – the home to some of Worcester’s favorite dining spots like Sweet Kitchen & Bar, One Eleven Chop House, Piccolo’s and Pomir Grill. This year we welcomed British Beer Company—a “chain” that has taken a vested interest in the heart of the Commonwealth; Terra Brasilis, a Brazilian BBQ restaurant joined the every-changing street; and another newcomer is expected to join us by the end of the year, The Usual, opening in The Fix’s original space, and isn’t about your usual homemade sandwich. Instead it stands to make a name for itself by offering specialty sandwiches unlike any other – with some requiring a fork and knife. “We want to give the sandwiches a new look and feel. There’s no other place focusing on specialty sandwiches and we are here to make it happen,” says Kevin Perry, co-owner.

Roasted beets with creamy goat cheese, baby Kale and Blood Orange form Lock 50 on Water Street in Worcester, MA
Roasted beets with creamy goat cheese, baby Kale and Blood Orange form Lock 50 on Water Street in Worcester, MA

Shrewsbury Street may be iconic to Worcester residents, but it is not the only place in the city giving you a chance to indulge your senses. The Canal District won the food lotto with the recent additions of Lock 50 and The Hangover Pub. “At Lock 50 we have found a great location in the Canal District, with the new development projects and upswing of the area we find ourselves to be a centerpiece in the District,” says Tom Studer of Lock 50. “Our concept of small plates has been widely embraced at this point. We have started to see customers come all the way from Boston, Providence and Portsmouth to experience what we have to offer. We also have a variety of events, a great patio and our Cafe program has bridged us into a great relationship with the arts community. We are heavily involved in the Canal District Art Walk,” he added.

CIDER BRAISED STATLER CHICKEN from The Hangover Pub on Green Street in Worcester, MA
CIDER BRAISED STATLER CHICKEN: Sherry cream, apple, bacon, Yukon gold potatoes, Brussel Sprouts

With many great new additions, it is only natural to part with some of the restaurants that made our foodie hearts melt. We tip our chef hats to those we have said goodbye to in 2016: Somethin’ Catchy Seafood Shanty never “caught on” in Worcester (it has been sold and is under construction for an upcoming Brazilian themed location), Wingman (now the location of The Sandwich Hut), Perfect Game (oh, how we will miss you!), EVO (now the location of Bootleggers Prohibition Pub), and Shiraz Armenian Cuisine (a Park Avenue staple for over 20 years).

Worcester isn’t just the second largest city in New England nor is it the ugly stepsister of Boston; Worcester is in fact the hub for all things incredible. Food, business, tech and hospitality are only but a few elements keeping Worcester at top of everyone’s “what’s hot” list.

Chef Jared Forman at deadhorse hill in Worcester, MA
Chef Jared Forman at deadhorse hill in Worcester, MA.