No longer are burgers confined to the restricted stigmas of fast-food and summer cook-outs. While chefs around the nation have been paying careful attention to burger service, Worcester, too, has been paying close attention since The Fix Burger Bar opened in 2014. The long wait to sit at this small eatery proves that burgers in Central Massachusetts isn’t a fad, and Michael Muscarella’s serious dedication to the craft and the evolution of the sandwich allows it to take another step forward in Central Massachusetts.
Michael Covino, President of Niche Hospitality Group, has embarked on a move and expansion of the popular Fix brand, which will alleviate some of the problems that the original Shrewsbury Street location has: turning away customers night after night due to their maxed capacity.
“The Fix was instantly successful on Shrewsbury Street. I mean, we are the only full-service burger bar in Worcester and success has given us a new challenge: space,” says Covino. “A year into The Fix, we realized it was time to make the change and we were contacted by a broker who led us to the old Northworks, and here we are.”
The timing was impeccable.
Covino, toured Mass Foodies through the newly leased property on 106 Grove Street, giving Mass Foodies the behind the scenes tour on what is in store for The Fix. Covino breathed life into his vision, taking notes on new ideas about The Fix and the future of the brand, while showcasing all that is perfection in a construction site. The ability to foresee the new expansion isn’t about restaurant experience, isn’t about passion and for Covino, passion has led him to new heights in the past.
With a new space comes a highly anticipated level of change – and not just change on the menu but change in the culture assimilated with devouring a nice half pound burger and fries on a work day.
Among the added seating areas, expansive industrial look, open kitchen and a variety of function rooms, The Fix is adding a visual tap system designed to creatively flow beer from a central location to the tap and, of course, is hopeful to supply local craft beers to its patrons.
“We aren’t going to just stop at a great burger menu and beer. With our new location, completely surrounded by businesses, we want to add value to our lunches by expanding our function meal to include dishes beyond the burgers but we are also going to introduce the cold brew coffee tap and a few ‘mid day’ treats for those looking to come in a break away from,” says Covino. The nitro coffee is a brand new technology only seen in larger cities like New York and has seen success when first introduced at Sweet and Lock 50, and for The Fix, it’s going to help take their menu to a new level of kick-ass.
A quick peek at the progress of the new The Fix set to open on Grove Street in July!
The thin slices of pig heart “pastrami” look impossibly ruby colored, almost purple – a stark contrast to the sheen of pale yellow mustard topping the small mason jar of rillettes (a pâté-like spread of pork cooked in its own fat) next to them on the charcuterie board. There are ribbons of house-cured ham too. And a tempting fat-studded headcheese that belies its name. (Who gave such deliciousness such an off-putting moniker?)
Standing over the board is the person who made it all: Alina Eisenhauer. Yes, that Alina Eisenhauer. The “pastry chef.” The one who deftly incorporated rambutan (a tropical fruit) into a cupcake on The Food Network show “Sweet Genius.” The one who has been dazzling Worcester and beyond since 2008 with her signature cupcakes, which line the entrance to her restaurant, Sweet Kitchen & Bar, and adorn its logo. For sure, those pig parts, especially that heart pastrami, would make any carnivore scream, “Sweet!” But they are decidedly savory.
And if this confuses you, well, you may know her cupcakes but you don’t truly know Alina or Sweet.
Chef Alina Eisenhauer preparing a dish from her new Savory Menu at Sweet on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA (Photo by Erb Photography)
Don’t worry. Alina still makes a “damned good” cupcake and she still has that wicked sweet tooth that led to her “dosant” and other popular dessert creations. (She’s aware that rebellions might form should they ever disappear.) It’s just that Alina waxes equally rhapsodic about her restaurant’s growing and evolving savory side, which actually takes her back to where she started.
“Everyone – including me! — is so quick to think that I started in desserts, but I started as a cook in restaurants,” says Alina. “I have a love/hate relationship with the structure that pastry requires. My natural personality is not that of a pastry chef. A savory chef doesn’t need to be that exacting. You don’t have to stand over the candy thermometer because if you go over or under one degree you’ve ruined the whole thing. Because that isn’t my personality in the kitchen, I guess I took a certain amount of pride in forcing myself to do desserts and accomplishing the challenge when the opportunity presented itself. I learned pastry and desserts from my mother but I taught myself at sixteen when there was no pastry chef at the restaurant I worked at. I became the pastry chef. I was obsessed. That’s how I am.”
That explains Alina’s current savory obsessions. Her eyes may light up passing a flat of strawberries from Lettuce Be Local but maybe even more so when she explains how to scrape the fat off the inside of pig skin with a spoon, fry that skin into crispy chicharrones (pork rinds), and use them as a foundation in place of chips for the ultimate paleo nachos. The skin and all the aforementioned bits came from a whole pig she got from Lilac Hedge Farm in Berlin; she plans on doing even more with their porcine tastiness in the near future. Lilac also provides Sweet’s ground beef, which Alina used as the foundation for her entry to The James Beard Foundation’s Better Burger Project™– a nationwide challenge to blend ground meat with 30% mushrooms to create a tasty but more sustainable burger.
The burger has been a hit but overall Alina still struggles for acceptance of her savory treats designed for sharing because have you tasted those cupcakes? “So many people around here identify me for the sweet and have yet to realize that we make really good food not just desserts. We are working on changing that. I have the confidence I can do it. People even joke that pastry chefs are the better chefs because we have to be more technical. We are taught to follow recipes, and if you give me a recipe for anything, I can cook it.” Alina stops and laughs, “If you’re a recipe kind of person.”
Balancing her sweet and savory sides accomplishes two things for Alina. The first is purely business: “There’s a lot of competition for the sweet side. Desserts are such a small segment. Not everyone eats desserts every day. Some just for special occasions. Supermarket bakeries are getting better. You have to do other things to survive.”
“But the bigger reason for me is creative,” she continues. “My mom always told me I was looking for the next thing. I love a challenge. To be locked in the box of just sugar and chocolate didn’t give me as much creatively.”
It also doesn’t let her push boundaries, which is the biggest challenge as the Worcester food scene grows: “Like other great chefs in the city, we try and educate the consumer. There are things I would love to be able to do that people are not ready for like incorporating more vegetables into dessert. I know they will like it but will they try it? When you are using fresh local ingredients, you don’t have a lot of room for people not to try it because there is a lot of waste.”
So, she pushes gently. “We did a sorrel ice cream, which is a weed that grows on your sidewalk, and made ice cream that was very popular but the fact that it came with strawberries and whipped cream probably helped. That’s the way to do it. Sneak it into a dish that they might not be 100% sure what it is but the rest of the dish sounds so good that they will try it anyway. I was pleasantly surprised at how well the burger has been received just because people do not think of us as that kind of place.”
That’s certainly true of Alina’s favorite part of Sweet’s menu too: brunch, which is unlike any in the city right now and which she would love to expand from weekends to a Friday “Business Brunch” or even a gospel one on Sundays. She’s playing with more than pig too, including the first “nitro” cold brewed coffee tap (pours like a Guinness and tastes unlike any iced coffee you’ve had) behind one of the most inspired and best stocked bars in Worcester.
The important thing for Alina is the restaurant scene in Worcester is getting so much richer: “We are getting enough chefs here who are pushing boundaries and doing interesting things and informing and educating consumers about what they are doing. We are buying local. It’s not competition. The more there are of us doing it, the more it grows the demand for it and people want more and more.”
As she pushes to satisfy this demand, Alina also tries to remember to celebrate what she has not just what she can do better and different for her customers to give them the best experience and the happiest memories. For someone who makes madeleines, she sounds appropriately Proustian: “Everything we do here is because we are trying to provide an amazing experience and a memory for someone. That is what food is. It is memories.”
That goes for herself, too: “I do this because I love it. This is a passion for people like me. You are so driven, so focused on what you are doing in the kitchen, you forget to appreciate what you have achieved. Usually it catches me on a Friday night, walking up the stairs. I turn around and see the place full of people having a good time, my kitchen turning out great food, and my dedicated staff serving it, and I think, ‘This is cool.’”
