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From Biotech To Restaurants, Rose-Ellen Padavano Isn’t Hiding

Rose-Ellen Padavano outside of Padavano's on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

Rose-Ellen Padavano, chef at Padavano’s Place and Rosalina’s Kitchen, thinks she may be the only guest who ever got bleeped on “Phantom Gourmet.” That may or may not be true. What feels true after meeting Rose-Ellen is no one who knows her would likely be the least bit surprised to hear she dropped an f-bomb in the kitchen with the cameras rolling. Probably more ended up on the cutting room floor. Who knows? You get the sense either way Rose-Ellen isn’t hiding who she is from anyone. “In the kitchen I am nuts,” she laughs. “I think most chefs are. You have to be nuts as a chef-owner.”

Listening to Rose-Ellen and digging into her restaurants’ generous and beloved plates of from-scratch Italian home-style food, you think, “This is someone who has never lacked confidence.” Which is why hearing her say these words are so surprising: “I can’t do this. I just can’t.”

The Avalanche from Rosalina's Kitchen on Hamilton Street in Worcester, MA
The Avalanche from Rosalina’s Kitchen on Hamilton Street in Worcester, MA

That’s what Rose-Ellen thought in 2010 before she opened Rosalina’s Kitchen on Hamilton Street. Today, the restaurant is renowned for its ravioli, Ricotta Puffs, 4-Parm Avalanche, and a tiny dinner-only dining room that’s packed four nights a week. In 2014, Rose-Ellen and her partner Angela opened a sister restaurant, Padavano’s Place, and in 2015 comes the opening of a seafood shanty, Somethin’ Catchy Seafood Shanty. People have noticed: She recently earned best chef honors from Worcester Living and runner-up finish in Worcester Magazine. But back in 2010 before that all started?

“I had been in the biotech industry. I was at the top of my career. But I was not happy to be there. So I left, but I wasn’t sure which direction I was going in. I started doing a little catering. Then I saw this cute little restaurant for sale in Grafton Hill and a friend of mine told me I had to inquire about it.”

So, she finally realized her dream of being a chef?

“No. No. NO!” she laughs. “Are you crazy?”

“You weren’t even a very good cook!” her partner Angela screams from back of Padavano’s.

“No shit,” she yells back (we understand, Phantom). “I loved food but I totally sucked at cooking.” Not that she hadn’t tried to cook before Rosalina’s. She just didn’t do it well, but free from her corporate life, she developed techniques and fundamentals to match her palate. “Everything I have learned – except my partner’s mom’s meatballs – I have taught myself as an adult with cookbooks, lots of Internet, trying things out in the kitchen.” Legions of fans are glad she did.

So, how did she end up making the jump into restaurants? “I always had big parties at home. We were constantly entertaining. 50 to 60 people for turkey dinner and the next day I’d say, ‘We are going to do brunch at 11. Leftover turkey tetrazzini for breakfast.’ And the next thing you know the turkey is flying around. I just loved it.” Soon, the party people started asking Rose-Ellen to cook for them and she started catering out of the house. That’s when a friend told her to check out the restaurant that became Rosalina’s.

Rose-Ellen Padavano Cooking
Photo by Alex Belisle

Despite having a quick following, for the first six months, Rose-Ellen still lacked her signature confidence: “I drove up with a knot in my stomach. I was scared. I never even worked in a restaurant. Not just the cooking. I didn’t know how to write a guest check. My partner is a civil engineer by trade. She can build you a bridge, but we needed a waitress from the previous restaurant to teach us how to write checks and use the cash register. You don’t use those in biotech. We had to learn the chef and the business side together.”

And they did it, maybe because they did not know any better – a little naiveté and nerves never hurt if it keeps you thinking anything is possible. Neither does success. As a result, even with Rosalina’s open only for dinner four days a week, Rose-Ellen was putting in 14 to 16 hour days. Then, she would study in bed before passing out exhausted – only to wake up in the middle of the night with ideas to write them down. The consequences went beyond sleep deprivation.

“Within a couple of years I knew Rosalina’s was always going to be successful. It was growing exponentially,” she recalls. “We were turning away so many people all the time. We have sixty seats and we’re open for four hours. We were watching customers and money going out the door. So we said, ‘What are we doing? Let’s try and plan something else.’”

She and Angela spent eighteen months looking at spaces and locations before stumbling on what became Padavano’s Place on Shrewsbury Street, which in many ways seems the polar opposite of Rosalina’s. If the first is a homey, humble, BYOB place that feels like walking into a boisterous aunt’s house, the latter something different – not a Rosalina’s II but more refined with a full bar and live entertainment though very much the same food to try and capture a piece of the booming Shrewsbury Street scene. “And we’ve caught on,” she says, especially as Rosalina’s shut-outs found just what they were looking for and more at Padavano’s Place.

That said Padavano’s has become the place where Rose-Ellen can play in the kitchen. She’s been sautéing and experimenting with stuffed breads and soups and strews for the season. The space also serves as the test kitchen for her ravioli specials in honor of Padavano’s one-year anniversary like pumpkin ravioli with a brown sugar cinnamon cream sauce in fall or “turkey dinner” ravioli for November or “beef stew” ravioli for winter. She entered Worcester’s Best Chef contest with grape-leaf ravioli she concocted at Padavano’s, and she’s thinking about ingredients like lobster, shrimp, crab, and mushroom.

She also concocted her third restaurant in the Padavano’s kitchen, playing with chowders and batters for the seafood shanty, Something Catchy. “No one would expect us to open a fish place, but it makes sense to have one and no one else is doing it so why not us? I had a goal to open three restaurants by the time I was 40 [she’s 39 now]. I asked, ‘What does Worcester need?’ A seafood shanty! It’s a no brainer and fun.”

In the end, though Rose-Ellen likes being part of the crowd too. She and Angela actively support local businesses and eat out every Tuesday. “I like the speed and the pressure. I love the craziness of the kitchen,” she says. “But I like visiting with people. The most fun is the socializing. I like to party with people. The most gratifying part is people like what I am doing. Rosalina’s is a destination because there is nothing else there. Padavano’s success is even sweeter, because people chose to come to us from all the great places here. I love to cook but coming out and seeing everyone love it? That’s why I act like a maniac every day.”

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A Year in Review: Worcester is a Hungry City

Sweet's Main Bar at their new location on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA (Photo by Erb Photography)

 

For all intents and purposes, Worcester is a hungry city. We have seen the city grow in immeasurable ways through the past decade; cultural institutions including the Worcester Art Museum and Hanover Theatre for the Performing Arts, the educational institutions like Massachusetts College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences and Quinsigamond Community College, and businesses both large and small like Unum and Crompton Collective have seen the value and potential that Worcester has to offer. As a result, these companies have invested in expanding their footprints to include themselves in the fabric that holds Worcester’s community together.

A group dining at Chuan Shabu on Park Avenue in Worcester, MAEvidence of this vibrant vision for the future is most tangible in the hospitality scene. For the first time in recent memory, we are not only seeing dozens of restaurants opening (and, the true testament, staying in business), but are watching them leading the charge in the discussion of culinary excellence—on a national level. Everywhere you look: Armsby Abbey pioneered both the, then new to Worcester, “farm-to-table” and “slow food;” Niche Hospitality Group not only introduced the concept of tapas, but gourmet Spanish Tapas at Bocado Tapas Wine Bar (and then expanded it to Providence and Wellesley); Sweet calls Worcester home even after Chef Alina Eisenhauer was featured on the Food Network’s cooking show Chopped and Cupcake Wars and won Sweet Genius. Worcester is hungry.

Thick sliced whole wheat oat bread with butter and honey with an espresso at BirchTree Bread Company on Green Street in Worcester, MAThis year is no exception. The hospitality industry is one of the most volatile industries, affected more so by the environment around it than the talent within. But Worcester’s economy, community, and hunger has ensured that the success of the early 2000s is more “the first course” than a flash in the pan. In twelve short months, much has happened. Early this year, husband and wife duo, Alec Lopez and Sherri Sadowski, finally opened the long awaited Crust Artisan Bakeshop, bringing locally sourced ingredients and naturally leavened bread to Main Street. Breathing life into the quickly growing Canal District, BirchTree Bread Company offers a similar attention to detail baking style with a completely different cafe-style atmosphere. Also in the Canal District, we’ve seen a building that has been empty for years brought back to life by David Domenick in the form of Compass Tavern. On Shrewsbury Street, Niche Lavraki Mediterranean Sea Bass from Meze on Shrewsbury StreetHospitality Group, moved the original Mezcal Tequila Cantina into Más Mezcal at larger space in the heart of downtown while simultaneously created a new concept in its former space, as a restaurant focused on burgers called The Fix Burger Bar. Also on Shrewsbury Street, which was made known for its Italian style is now known for its diverse dining options, including Mezé Greek Tapas Bar & Grille where a taste of true Mediterranean flavors meets tapas style service. The Italian world also expanded on Shrewsbury Street when Rose-Ellen Padavano, growing off the success of the BYOB favorite Rosalina’s Kitchen, opened a new restaurant, Padavano’s Place. In other parts of Worcester, we see Red Pepper offering a Chinese culinary experience just a few short miles from craft brewery 3cross Brewing Company. And there is a lot more that opened in 2014.

Diners ordering at The Fix Burger Bar on Shrewsbury Street in WorcesterFor the first time in many years, it is evident that businesses, government, institutions, and individuals understand that they need to work together—it is no longer the wild west of monopolies; it’s community. Programs like the Worcester Cultural Coalition’s WOO Card and movements like Amy Lynn Chase’s #ShopWoo help hold the Worcester fabric together. Worcesterites may not have bucket loads more money than they did last year, but they are conscious about experience, quality, and worcester-centric ideas. This concept is not widely adapted by other cities, which is why Worcester’s reach goes beyond its seven hills. Worcester is a hungry city and it just started on its appetizer.

Hot and spicy at The Fix Burger Bar on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA