I was eager to try Mezcal Cantina in their new downtown location. I have long been a fan of their cuisine but not a fan of fighting the crowds in the smaller space formerly located on Shrewsbury Street. The space was open without being overly loud, and homey without being overly rustic. I love all of the establishments managed by the Niche Hospitality Group. In a dining scene dominated by cookie cutter wine lists I can always count of finding something interesting at the Niche restaurants. But on this night I didn’t even look. I went straight for the Sangria. I am so glad that I did. It drank like a wine rather than any sangria I have had elsewhere. It was excellent. The pitcher served both of us two very generous pours. Ice and fruit (cherry and orange) was served on the side – THANK YOU, MEZCAL! The wine was a dense violet color. The intense aromas leapt from the glass with fresh, ripe, red berry fruit with a hint of orange peel. A dry wine, well-structured with a refreshing acidity and just a touch of astringency. However, the best part was it wasn’t syrupy sweet like so many other sangrias I have had. Many sangrias are overly sweet in order to hide flaws such as overt acidity or bitterness. If I had to guess, I would imagine this was made with a Tempranillo or Grenache which tend to be highly aromatic but low in acid. If you are a light red drinker (pinot noir) lover you will love the Sangria at Mezcal. It’s a Sangria you will want to sip rather than swill. Dare I say, it had finesse?!? It paired beautifully with the duck confit quesadilla. The mole sauce which was delicately drawn on the flaky, pastry like tortilla highlighted the subtle spice in the wine. The flavorful savory duck was the perfect companion for the long lasting fruit dominant wine. Delightful!
Tag: Pinot Noir
Ceres Bistro’s Sweet Sour and Salty Tuna & Smokey Brined Pork Tenderloin
Typically, the idea of “surf and turf” conjures images of North American Irish pubs and steakhouses putting a shellfish and a disappointedly small hunk of steak on a dish. Although not touted as “surf and turf,” Ceres Bistro decided to marry two unlikely pairs together for the Worcester Foodies meeting in May. The second course paired a Sweet Sour and Salty Tuna with a Smokey Brined Pork Tenderloin with three equally unlikely sides: Cauliflower Chow Chow, Braised Collard Greens, and marinated butter beans.
While it can be a challenge to properly braise pork it is a double challenge when presenting it with seared tuna, but Chef Bill Nemeroff, mastered the challenge by serving a juicy, tender pork tenderloin with a large cube of sushi grade tuna, both melting in your mouth. The flavor profiles of both were complex, but worked well together with the assistance of braised collard greens, a vinegary cauliflower chow chow, and marinated butter beans. Diners found themselves constantly rotating between the fish, chow chow, pork, collard greens and butter beans—and repeating—an explosive tour of flavors and textures.
While many wines either go with fish or meat exclusively, it was interesting that a pinot noir was chosen as a match, but the 2009 Talbott “Sleepy Hallow” Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands, California) complimented the spices from both the smokey brine of the pork tenderloin and the salty searing of the tuna.
Having started with the Crisp Goat Cheese and Cream of Corn Teaser with Basil Jello and Freeze Dried Crisp Kernels, the Worcester Foodies were starting to get full and satisfied with the creative choices by Chef Nemeroff. But the final course—a sour cream coffee cake with parsnip gelato and candied bacon—would prove the most dynamic and bold choices of the night.