Duck is not a dish that I frequently order, partly because it is rare to find it among the Worcester restaurants and partly because it is an easy dish to do wrong. Knowing the Flying Rhino’s reputation for taking risks often with rewarding results, I decided that the Duck Farrotto could challenge the chef and, hopefully, result in a rewarding meal.
Described as a “half duck roasted to perfection over savory wild mushroom and duck farro risotto and garnished with crispy fried cracklins” I was extremely pleased to see how this meal was plated: the roasted duck leg sat atop the risotto with ample pieces of meat, mushrooms, and cracklins mixed within. The best meat from a duck comes from the breasts and legs and, because duck is a waterfowl, there is a generous layer of heat-insulating fat between the skin and meat that naturally moistens and adds incredible flavor to the dish. Because duck is a hearty dish, the farrotto was an excellent compliment. Similar to a risotto, the robust, resilient farro grain adds a smooth nutty flavor with a slightly chewy texture that blended perfectly with both the smooth texture of the mushroom and rich flavor of the duck. The true reward to this dish, however, was the cracklins—thin slices of the duck fat with small amounts of attached skin. These were lightly fried and mixed within the farrotto, giving a truly dynamic experience to both textures and flavors of this dish.
A rich dish, I should have taken half of it home for lunch, but my gluttonous taste buds would have none of that insisting that I leave no grain behind.
It is important to note that the Flying Rhino has been a staple on Shrewsbury Street not only because of its location and phenomenal service, but also because of its ever-changing menu that constantly challenges the chef each season. In addition to its “Mediterranean modern” menu, Flying Rhino is also part of the WooFood movement, which offers “healthy alternatives” menu items that don’t lack in flavor or portion size.
There are many restaurants in Worcester that you should order safe menu items, but at Flying Rhino, take a risk and reap the rewards. -LV
