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Seafood Calabrese from Dino’s

Seafood Calabrese from Dino's on Lord Street in Worcester, MA

Seafood Calabrese from Dino's on Lord Street in Worcester, MA

Dino’s Ristorante Italiano has been serving Worcester’s Italian appetites for over 60 years. I was looking forward to this stop as I have never dined here before.

The menu is packed with classic Italian staples like pizza, chicken and veal Parmesan, meatballs, alfredo, etc., as well as a respectable mid priced wine list. I decided to look for my “go to” Italian dish, Seafood Fra Diavolo. I was in luck when I found the Seafood Calabrese, a seafood medley of Shrimp, scallops, calamari and mussels served over pasta in a spicy marinara sauce.

While waiting for our dinner the very attentive waitress served the table with fresh Italian bread and a brushetta that was to die for. I had to ask where they purchased the bread, and was told it was delivered daily from Culpeppers Bakery in Worcester. We were off to a good start.

My entrée arrived in a timely manner. The portion was huge; unfortunately, the flavor was not. I had to ask the waitress for crushed red pepper to add to the salt and black pepper the dish needed just to give it a lift. Not good for a dish that is advertised served in a “simmering spicy marinara sauce.” The dish was prepared well enough, but the flavor went nowhere.

Unfortunately, my impression of Dino’s is that quantity outweighs quality. If you’re looking for a lot of food at a low price point, Dino’s delivers. Otherwise, I feel they fall short.

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Seafood Bianco from Dino’s

Seafood Bianco from Dino's

Seafood Bianco from Dino's

Dino’s is located in a quiet neighborhood at the end of what appears to be a cul-de-sac. Even this somewhat out of the way location didn’t seem to keep people from finding it as there were a surprising number of patrons for a Tuesday evening. I couldn’t help but take note of the size of the dishes delivered to nearby tables and the amount of to-go boxes that were leaving with people after their meals were complete. Nonetheless, I ordered the Seafood Bianco which included shrimp, scallops, calamari, and mussels nestled into linguini. The seafood was to be simmered in a white wine garlic sauce with tomatoes and leeks. When my meal arrived, the seafood promised on the menu was definitely included. There were at least 12-15 mussels, rings of calamari, a handful of bay scallops, but unfortunately, only 2-3 shrimp. Most of the mussels were good, the calamari and scallops were okay and the number of shrimp comparatively was disappointing.

The dish as a forkful was great at first; full of flavor and seafood. As I progressed, a thick garlic aftertaste emerged and the linguine became almost too slippery to collect. The sauce separated at the bottom of the bowl to create a souplike mix of oil and cheese. The portion was enormous, but I would rather have had less food with a more consistent sauce and a better ratio of fresh seafood. I feel a lot is lost when portions become large and I was a little disappointed. Dino’s is great if you want a dinner that will double as a lunch the next day, but the flavors of my dinner did not stand out and a lot is compromised.