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Salmon Fellini

Salmon Fellini from Dino's on Lord Street in Worcester, MA

Salmon Fellini from Dino's on Lord Street in Worcester, MA

It had been 12 years since my last visit to Dino’s and I was delighted to see it had remained largely unchanged, a comforting blend of at-home Italian dining dressed up for a family celebration. Being one of the last to arrive (foodies always seem eager to arrive early), I took my seat and reacquainted myself with the menu.

I chose to start with the Goat Cheese Pear Salad, a wild greens salad topped with spiced walnuts, fresh caramelized pears, marinated tomato wedges, goat cheese, and a balsamic vinaigrette dressing. Though the look of the salad was a little underwhelming upon its arrival, the ingredients were fresh and came together well which made for a solid, though not exceptional, start to the meal.

Since seafood is a claimed specialty for Dino’s and there is only so much meat, tomato sauce, and pasta a human body should process, I decided to order the Salmon Fellini. Described as “Atlantic salmon broiled and topped with artichoke hearts, sun dried tomatoes and leeks, topped with spears of asparagus and honey dijon sauce,” it seemed healthy enough to count as lighter fair and had enough sweet, fatty sauce to make me happy (ordering it over a buttery risotto is something I’ll conveniently ignore). The meal was delicious, and I was surprised at how well the honey dijon accented the salmon and sun dried tomatoes in particular. It was also one of the few dishes on the table that came in a manageable portion size, much to my belt’s delight.

With great, no-nonsense service and a selection of dependable dishes, Dino’s continues to be the work-horse of Worcester’s Italian restaurants. It may not always be the prettiest, shiniest, or most innovative, but it is great nonetheless for its charm and consistent level of quality. It won’t take as long for me to reconnect next time.

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Beef Braccioli from Dino’s

Beef Broccoli from Dino's on Lord Street in Worcester, MA

Beef Braccioli from Dino's on Lord Street in Worcester, MA

I have to say, I really wanted to like Dino’s. It’s a family restaurant that, according to its website, has been in the business for over 60 years. It was voted “Best Italian Restaurant” by Worcester Magazine three times. I thought I would find here a treasure off the beaten path (literally – I can almost guarantee you’ll drive right by Lord Street the first time you’re looking for it).

Unfortunately, I was disappointed.

I ordered the beef Braccioli: “Thinly sliced beef stuffed with bread crumbs, cheese, spices, and herbs simmered in light tomato sauce served over your choice of pasta. Comes with side salad or soup.

While the salad was pretty good, the main course turned out to be tasteless. The promised combinations were far more interesting on the menu than they were on the pallet. The pasta, the meat, and the stuffing were all too similar in texture. Usually I have to force myself to stop from eating too much because I want to save a portion for lunch the next day. I didn’t have to struggle this time. After just a few bites, it was easy for me to push this plate away and not look back. Next Day Note: this meal did benefit from an overnight in the refrigerator as the flavors had some time sink in.

Not to say that Dino’s didn’t have some pluses. Our server was nice. Another diner’s antipasto salad plate was maxed out with veggies and meats. Moreover, the dessert menu has an impressive fourteen items to choose from. However, I couldn’t justify ordering a treat when I had eaten just a few bites of my dinner – what would my Italian Nonna say?

I understand that kitchen staff can have an off night, so I’d be willing to try Dino’s. However, it would have to be on a Monday or a Tuesday, when nearby Rosalina’s Kitchen is closed.