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Less Than Greater Than Pairs Island Treasures

The Ramen and Three Dots and a Dash makes a pairing at Less Than Greater Than in Hudson, MA perfect.

The only thing more mystifying than a back door speakeasy masquerading as a cobbler shop is a perfectly murky bowl of 18 hour broth in the thick of central Massachusetts’ ramen desert. Visit Less Than Greater Than (<>) on any Tuesday tiki night and you’ll see what I mean.

Located in the rear of New City Microcreamery is a cryptic light switch that serves as the gateway to the town of Hudson’s secret classic cocktail lounge. Flip the switch and wait for a Dutch door to swing open in haste. A woman sporting a floral lei will usher you inside before ducking back behind the marble bar. The bar is apt to be packed, so order your ramen immediately and wait for a steaming Japanese noodle bowl to appear before you.

Less Than Greater Than’s ramen dish is arduously prepared with an 18 hour surf and turf broth, fresh noodles, a slow poached egg, fried garlic, braised chicken, scallions and nori. Paired with Three Dots and a Dash, the ramen’s bold salinity is offset by the mellow sweetness of Aged Agricole, orange, and local honey. Three Dots and a Dash also features grassy Demrara Rum that works to enhance the ramen’s deeply earthy sheet of roasted seaweed. Clove and cinnamon notes of Pimento Dram, Falernum, and Angostura Bitters further intensify the broth’s complex dimensions.

Japanese cuisine and classic cocktail culture have a lot in common, calling for clean and simple ingredients combined with an iron-fisted attention to technique. Ramen and tiki are the outliers. They demand a laundry list of ingredients and a healthy dose of creativity. Both continue to attract a cult following.

With that said, noodles and umbrella drinks have had a particularly hard time making a craft resurgence in central Massachusetts. Less Than Greater Than has unearthed a fashionable niche and a rising tide will raise all ships. I feel confident that ramen and tiki drinks are only the beginning.

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The Bitter Truth

The New Orleans' original: Sazerac.

The Bitter Truth to a drinks co-star.

We’ve all seen that ubiquitous yellow capped bottle behind every bar – usually stashed next to the cash register. You know, the bottle with the oversized white label on it that seems like it’s rarely used; the contents of which are as mysterious as the Yeti or the Loch Ness Monster. In reality, that bottle contains what some might consider to be pure magic – bitters (Angostura Bitters to be exact). When you open that bottle you will find perhaps the most misunderstood and underutilized tool in cocktail history.

The New Orleans' original: Sazerac.Most everyone has heard of bitters yet many might not actually know what they are or how they are used… or even what they are used for. We are here to remove that veil for you and shed some light on this fascinating liquid that has been around longer than we have.

So what are bitters? In the simplest of terms, bitters are water, alcohol, herbs, spices, and sometimes fruit (citrus oils, extracts, etc.). Bitters can (and should) be used as a flavoring agent to add depth to your favorite cocktail or dish. That’s right, bitters are not only used with cocktails, but often also used in the culinary world to add some flavor to sauces, meats, dressings, and even bar nuts. Aside from the culinary uses, bitters were originally developed for medicinal purposes, for whatever ailment you had at the time

Let’s take a step back in time to a hot and steamy New Orleans afternoon in the 1830’s. Just outside the french quarter, a Haitian gentlemen by the name of Antoine Peychaud has called a meeting of the local Free Mason chapter. Peychaud is a chemist and owns an apothecary in town. As the guests arrive, he hands them each a liquid concoction that contains rye whiskey (some have claimed he used cognac), sugar, absinthe, and a couple drops of a mysterious red liquid. This concoction is what many believe to be the precursor to the american cocktail. But what was the mysterious red liquid he added? Today, we know that liquid as Peychaud’s bitters, and back then, he was making them by hand in the back of his apothecary for his friends.

Up until Prohibition, bitters played a prominent role in cocktails and cocktail culture—and for good reason. While bitters were never the star of the show, they do play an outstanding supporting role. Think of bitters as the liquid equivalent of John Turturro or Penelope Cruz. Not a good choice for the lead role, but they can really deliver in that supporting role or ensemble cast. After Prohibition, things changed quite a bit in the cocktail world: Sidecars and Sazerac gave way to Harvey Wallbangers and Cuba Libres (more commonly known as rum and cokes). During the dark days for cocktails, the 70’s, while people were getting wasted at Studio 54 and pulling all nighters with the aid of pharmaceuticals, consumption was focused on ways to mask the flavor of alcohol (hence the rise and popularity of vodka and the cosmopolitan). Thankfully, today, people have come back to their senses (literally) and bitters have come full circle.

With the recent resurgence of classic cocktails such as Manhattans and Old Fashioneds, bitters are making a huge comeback as well. Today, you can find a myriad of flavors out there including lemon, orange, cherry, and even bitters that are aged in used whiskey barrels. In fact, at Still & Stir Cocktail Bar, we made our own house lemon bitters and house orange bitters. While it was a painstaking process, the end result was great, with hints of cinnamon and allspice.

Next time you are at a bar, I encourage you to ask the barkeep to grab that Angostura Bitters bottle and add a few dashes to your favorite beverage – I promise you, you won’t regret it. Cheers!

Sazerac (A New Orleans original)

  • 2 oz rye whiskey
  • 0.5 oz simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water)
  • Couple dashaes bitters (preferably Peychaud’s bitters)
  • Absinthe (for anise flavor)

Add ingredients to mixing glass and stir with ice, pour into chilled rocks glass (no ice) and serve with squeezed lemon peel

Vieux Carre (means French Quarter in French)

  • .75 oz Rye Whiskey
  • .75 oz Cognac
  • .75 oz Sweet Vermouth
  • Spoonful of Benedictine (common liquor)
  • 1 dash Peychaud’s bitters
  • 1 dash Angostura bitters

Combine ingredients and stir with ice and pour into chilled rocks glass (ice optional).