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Smoked Duck Sausage at deadhorse hill

Duck Sausage from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA

The social media feeds had been buzzing with anticipation over the newest kid to the culinary scene in Worcester. That new establishment resides where the old Ritual used to be on Main Street and has a brand new look from front to back. Greeted by the open windows of the front of the restaurant, the space is split in half by the centrally located bar, with an open view to the kitchen; where you can watch some of deadhorse hill’s best prepare your meals for the evening. The space was bright and vibrant, being classy and industrial at the same time, painting the tin ceilings a contrasting color than the walls to pop and using tall, hanging lights to adorn the bar. The bar seats add additional character as no two are alike.

Southern Fried Chix Thighs from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA
Southern Fried Chix Thighs from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA

Being that this is a relative specialty restaurant that features local ingredients and a menu that changes depending on the offerings of the day, the menu is small…5 or 6 “small choices” and roughly the same amount of “large” dishes. Having anticipated the evening, I did not eat much during the day. I was famished. I decided to order a “small dish” of southern fired chicken with hot sauce and honey ($16). Expecting a couple of small drumsticks or a wing as a starter, I was taken back when I was served two massive deep fried chicken thighs. The chicken was coated in a crispy, brown and perfectly seasoned batter. The addition of the honey with the hot sauce made for a sweet departure from the spiciness of the sauce. The chicken was moist and made me wanting more. As if this starter wasn’t enough to make me call it quits for the night, I decided to order the smoked duck sausage ($24), which came accompanied with cranberry beans and greens. The cranberry bean is also known as the borlotti bean, and is not cranberry-like in nature. Rather, the name is derived from the color of the bean’s pod and the bean itself, which tends to speckled with maroon, however lose their bright color during the cooking process. The sausage had a slight game bird flavor to it, as you would expect any duck meal would. The natural casing of the sausage added a nice snap and texture to the dish. The flavors were rich and fully developed. The beans were cooked nicely and had a smooth texture to them. The green’s bitterness helped cut through the richness of the sausage. I love duck and whenever I see it on a menu, I have to order it. You will not be disappointed with this rendition.

The wait staff at deadhorse hill was very attentive and energetic. They lent their knowledge of the menu to the table and gave suggestions when it came to ordering. Our waitress was very friendly and outgoing and always seemed to have a big smile on her face. While she was not the hovering type, she seemed to always be around when you needed something, like a drink refill or your dishes cleared. At an establishment that seems to pride itself on everything having to do with the customer, it does not surprise me that the wait staff excelled at their duties this night.

I was pleasantly surprised with the final product that deadhorse hill was able to deliver. Nestled next to the Palladium and City Hall, it gives you a reason to go to Main Street in Worcester, when otherwise you would attempt to avoid it at all costs. With the emergence of restaurants like Armsby Abbey and deadhorse hill is proof that the food scene in Worcester is catching on. I would definitely recommend deadhorse hill to anyone looking to get a perfectly cooked meal with a little class and a slight flare. Being on the pricier side of the spectrum, it would make for a perfect date night or anniversary site for you and your significant other. The charm, atmosphere, spirits and food would be enough to bring me back again. Whether you’re sipping on your ‘Gansett from a Grimace glass or tearing up the $110 huge dry-aged prime ribeye, you will be happy with whatever you choose on the menu!

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Deadhorse Hill: A Trip Away Without Leaving Worcester

Spaetzle from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA

Once a hotel (Bay State House), deadhorse hill has reclaimed the history of the building it occupies dating back to the early 1900’s. Then, the headquarters for the Worcester Automobile Club held the Dead Horse Hill Climb from 1905-1911, where the best drivers and fastest cars would compete in a one mile race up Stafford Street- a steep 16% incline. Today, the owner/operators of deadhorse hill pay homage to the buildings origins and hope to return it to its glory days of being a prominent social destination.

The trio of owners clearly took their charge of creating a sense of nostalgia and integrity quite seriously; Sourcing antique glassware and china that recall your childhood memories (vintage dinner plates with butterfly gold patterns to the iconic Ronald McDonald collectible water glass) and outfitting their entire front-of-house staff with shirts displaying different Worcester designs from Worcester Wares (a retail store with all Worcester-themed goods just a block away on Commercial St.).

Memphis Rib from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA
Memphis Rib from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA

I appreciate small details and deadhorse hill scored high in this department. With a modern but simple twist, the menu came to us on clipboard with a selection of small plates (more like an appetizer) and large plates (entrée). While it all looked amazing, I decided to order two small plates. I was a little concerned it might not be enough food but it turned out to be more than sufficient. As to why I chose small plates, well… I am of German descent and anytime I have an opportunity to order Spaetzle, I’m in! This was no ordinary German noodle; This Spaetzle was pan-fried with mustard, sugar snap peas and a dollop of crème fraiche. The first few bites were good but as I got deeper into the bowl and combined the noodle with the sauce, it went from good to amazing. With different textures and flavors, this meant the rest of the meal had a lot to live up to. To go with it, I elected the Memphis Ribs with a big helping of house-made bread & butter pickles and a vinegar slaw of red cabbage. The plate came with 4 smokey dry-rubbed ribs. The meat literally fell off the bone. If I wasn’t in the company of some very lovely people then I probably wouldn’t have bothered with utensils. I’m not a huge fan of sweet pickles (more of a dill girl) but they were fresh and crunchy. On the other hand, I absolutely love pickled vegetables and the red cabbage slaw was terrific and very balanced.

The menu is a little pricier than other restaurants in the downtown area but I felt that the prices were justified. Everything is made from scratch- curing their own meats and making their own sauces. Our server, Carlos, told us Jared (owner and Chef de Cuisine) is a like a mad scientist, letting things marinate and creating special concoctions. Carlos was a wonderful server- super friendly and informative. He wasn’t afraid to give a recommendation, which I admire in a server.

I am thrilled to see a restaurant like this in downtown Worcester. It felt like fine dining without all of the pomp & circumstance. The owners have had some good press and I believe they’ve set the bar for other restaurants in the area. Although they’re not from Worcester originally, they’ve totally embraced the city, the people and the history. That’s a winning combination!