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Shrubs: A Colonial Technique For The Contemporary Bar

Shrubs Gin And Tonic

Shrubs Gin And Tonic

The resurgence of the classic American cocktail has exploded over the last ten years or so. Along with this has come a new appreciation for recipes using fresh ingredients and quality spirits. While there are many advantages to this growing cocktail culture, one of my favorites is the arrival of the home bar. In all honesty, people have been keeping their own home bars as long as liquor has been produced. But the great thing now is, with the growing interest in the classic cocktail these days, you can obtain excellent quality spirits at a very reasonable price. No longer are you stuck with the 1.75 L mega-bottle of cheaply made Mr. Boston’s gin (no offense to the fine folks at Mr. Boston!). Whether you merely have an extra cabinet where you store your spirits, or you have a full-fledged minibar with stools, glassware, and a dedicated ice bin, you can recreate your favorite cocktails at home and experiment with more obscure recipes that you have recently discovered.

Shrubs Gin And TonicThis leads me into our topic for this month, and that is: homemade ingredients. Specifically, I want to discuss shrubs. Even though it is springtime, and many people are preparing their yards, I am not referring to the stubby trees you are likely planting outside your home. I am referring to a mixture of fruit, sugar, and vinegar that is sure to add incredible depth to your cocktail and take it to the next level.

In its simplest form, a shrub was a means of preserving fruit and fruit juices in the colonial days. The ingredients needed to make a shrub are easily obtainable: sugar, vinegar, fruit, and perhaps alcohol. The vinegar, in this case, acts similar to acid in a lemon or a lime, and the sugar lends sweetness to the drink. A proper shrub should be both sweet and sour.

The great thing about shrubs are that the opportunities are endless. Depending on the time of year, or what is in season, you can use any fruit from raspberries and cherries to pineapple and mango. And if you really want to kick it up a notch, go ahead and add your favorite herbs or spice to the mixture. Another advantage of making a homemade shrub, is that it will keep in the fridge for quite a while. You can make a small batch or a larger batch and not have to worry about it spoiling in a couple of days. It should keep its freshness and flavor for a few weeks.

There are several methods to making shrubs, and you will find one that you prefer and works well for you. Some people prefer a heated method, where you are essentially boiling down fruit, sugar, and water on the stove and adding vinegar in to the mixture. I myself prefer a cold press method, which is very easy to do, however, takes the longest amount of time. In this method, you are simply combining macerated, or crushed fruit with sugar. Once the mixture is cooled, you can add the vinegar to the mix and let it steep for anywhere from a day to a week, in the refrigerator. By this time, the shrub is ready and is transferred to a glass container after straining out the fruit solids. The theory here is that the cold press method tends to hold the fruit flavor better in the mixture, and I have to agree.

The other variable to think about with this concoction is the type of vinegar you want to use. You can use any vinegar you prefer, just keep in mind the stronger the vinegar style, the more it will mask the other ingredients in the cocktail. If you really want to showcase the flavors in the base spirit you are using, i.e., in a gin and tonic, a mild vinegar such as rice vinegar works well. In other cases, you may prefer an apple cider vinegar or even red wine vinegar. Some ambitious home cock-tailers might even go for a pungent balsamic vinegar, but I would caution against that at first. Once you get the hang of the flavor profiles, then go ahead and experiment away… and remember, when it comes to “shrubbing,” a little goes a long way!

Housemade Raspberry Shrub

  • 1 Container fresh Raspberries
  • Sugar
  • 1 Cup Vinegar
  • Glass Vessel or Bottle with a cap
  • Place raspberries in stainless steel mixing bowl and roughly crush with hands. Add enough sugar over crushed berries to cover. Store in refrigerator for 24-48 hours. Add vinegar and mix to dissolve the sugar. Strain out fruit solids and store in glass container with lid.

Gin and Tonic w/Raspberry Shrub

  • 1.5 oz of your favorite gin (Death’s Door gin works well here)
  • 0.5 oz raspberry shrub
  • Tonic
  • Combine gin and raspberry shrub in tall Collins glass. Fill with tonic water. Sit back in the hot summer sun and enjoy!
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Bo Xao Bong Cai Xanh

Bo Xao Bong Cai Xanh from Dalat on Park Avenue in Worcester, MA

Bo Xao Bong Cai Xanh from Dalat on Park Avenue in Worcester, MA

It’s disappointing that when most people think about Vietnamese food they immediately think of phở. Well, I should clarify, I’ve disappointed myself in so strictly associating Vietnamese restaurants with phở (but, in my defense, most restaurants have it in their name). That’s where Dalat Restaurant comes into the mix. Located across from the firehouse on Park Avenue, this Vietnamese restaurant is tucked away in a small, unassuming storefront nestled between a barber shop and foot massage parlor. Admittedly, many Worcester diners would opt for more active spots like Pho Dakao where, on weekend nights, a young active crowd is found singing karaoke with tasty libations in hand. But this helps keep Dalat real.

Upon entering the restaurant, you find a large open space with a dozen or so tables sparsely decorated (table cloth, fork, chopsticks, and napkin). Towards the rear is a counter where you can place your to-go orders and also pay once you’ve completed your meal. Next to the counter is a table with small television set where you’ll typically find some of the restaurants family members sitting. The atmosphere is great.

The menu, which contains over 100 items (of which the charming waitress had numerically memorized) from the common Vietnamese items like phở to the exotic items like pigs feet and blood. For my dinner, I chose to stay safe with the Bo Xao Bong Cai Xanh (beef with broccoli, for those who speak American-Chinese food). The meal consisted of thinly sliced beef, broccoli, white onions, and a sauce that combined sweet with spicy (just a hint) with undertones of soy, vinegar, garlic, and spices that complimented the thin meat and vegetables. The sticky white rice was the perfect accompaniment to the meal by helping savor the flavors of the sauce and make a more formidable bite with the beef and broccoli.

Yes, I may have skipped out on the exotic options but, knowing the beef with broccoli satisfied my needs, my next visit I may have to venture beyond my comfort zone.