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Veal Cutlet Parmigiana at Dino’s

Veal Cutlet Parmigiana from Dino's on Lord Street in Worcester, MA

Veal Cutlet Parmigiana from Dino's on Lord Street in Worcester, MA

Anyone who has lived in Worcester or in the surrounding areas, at one point has either heard of or eaten at Dino’s Ristorante Italiano. It’s a Worcester mainstay; part of the old-school style of restaurants that still linger around the city. Known for it’s classic dishes and sizable portions, Dino’s has always been synonymous with hearty Italian dishes.

After going over their menu, I knew there was only one dish that I needed to order. I decided on the Veal Cutlet Parmigiana ($17.95). This entree was described as a thinly pounded, lightly breaded veal cutlet, fried and topped with melted mozzarella cheese and rich tomato sauce. Every meal begins with your choice of either soup or salad so I decided to go with the salad topped with the house Italian dressing. The salad consisted of iceberg lettuce, shredded carrots, onions, olives, tomatoes and cucumbers. For me the best part of the salad was the dressing itself as it had a nice acidity and tang to it from the oil and vinegar that was a welcome reprieve from the rather mundane iceberg lettuce. Also, the salads were served in a small bowl, which made it a little more difficult for me to cut and conquer to salad.

As my meal arrived at my table, I was happy to see a gigantic side plate filled with linguine pasta doused in red sauce. However, upon tasting the pasta (which was cooked nicely), I found that the sauce lacked flavor and seasoning. It was begging for salt, and even oregano or basil to bring out the natural flavors of the tomato sauce. The veal itself was pounded very thinly, and had a very thin crust on it. This was appreciated because the taste of the veal was able to shine, instead of being overpowered by breading or the deep-frying itself. The creamy mozzarella was a nice addition to the veal. Even the sauce that was covering the mozzarella cheese and the veal seemed to benefit from the flavoring that was lent to it. Half way through my meal I realized that I was not going to finish. A to-go box was needed and lunch for the next couple of days was all set.

Having time to reflect on my meal, I found myself mostly disappointed. The ingredients were there to make this an outstanding dish, but it just seemed to lack some finesse and seasoning. I plan to return to Dino’s in the future with an open mind and empty stomach to sample another one of their classic Italian dishes.

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Veal and Sausage Mafia from Rosalina’s Kitchen

Veal and Sausage Mafia from Rosalina's Kitchen on Hamilton Street in Worcester, MA

Veal and Sausage Mafia from Rosalina's Kitchen on Hamilton Street in Worcester, MA

I’m not Italian. But, for all intensive purposes (e.g., having memorized Godfather, point with both my pinkie and index, my Sinatra playlist, etc.) I like to believe that I would have made a great Italian—despite not being the biggest fan of gravy. To be fair, I have a lot of family and friends that are considered old school in their Italian heritage and, even as a child, I had fallen in love with their traditions that combined “famiglia con il cibo.”

In a city like Worcester, Italian restaurants are not hard to find—you have the staples, contemporary interpretations, and even the avant-garde hybrids that combine various dining categories—but it wasn’t until my visit to Rosalina’s Kitchen on Hamilton Street in Worcester, that I found what authentic Italian meant.

To start, Rosalina’s Kitchen is not pretentious. The space is cozy, yet deceptively large. Diners sit in simple chairs at plain table clothed square tables surrounded by a decor that is anything but consistent—from drop ceiling tiles through its black and white basket-weave floor tiles. All of this is charming, welcoming, and a breath of fresh air to the Worcester dining scene. During our visit—on a Wednesday—Rosalina’s Kitchen was full of lively guests—some talking quietly to their dining companions while others were boisterously having conversations with the tables next to them. The atmosphere had an energy that combined the warmth of a Sunday dinner at home with an extended family with the nostalgic Italian smells wafting through the air from the kitchen.

The menu was creative but decidedly Italian—staying true to the genre without adding too much “creativity.” I will admit, upon looking at the meals I felt like a kid on a playground not knowing which ride to start with; I wanted to order everything. After long deliberation—strategically listening to what my dining companions were ordering on the off chance I could steal a bite from them—I decided on the Veal & Sausage Mafia: “a delightful combination of sautéed veal & sausage bites with mushrooms simmered in a roasted red pepper sauce.” It was immediately evident that this was home cooking by the hands of a chef who loves to cook. The pasta was cooked as expected and bathed with the perfect amount of sauce that carried the flavors of the roasted red peppers and texture of the mushrooms. While the round, thinly sliced sausage added a great flavor to the dish, the true star with the sautéed veal. The texture, the flavor, the portions came together masterfully to round off the entire dining experience.

Rosalina’s Kitchen has been open since 2011, but is quickly gaining popularity as a safe, clean, neighborhood restaurant. Its BYOB policy is very appealing too, as it helps to ensure that a group, large or small, is able to affordably imbibe in their drink of choice with their meals. With an inviting atmosphere and authentic meals (including their speciality: homemade raviolis) Rosalina’s Kitchen is focused on combining “famiglia con il cibo”—even for those of us who aren’t Italian.