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Donna’s Take On Worcester’s Test Kitchen

Banh Mi Poutine From Niche Test Kitchen in Worcester

Banh Mi Poutine From Niche Test Kitchen in Worcester

It was Worcester Foodies 50th event and even though we have had some extraordinary dining in the past, this was, hands down, the best Foodies event we have had to date. The food was the main event at Niche Test Kitchen and the players were the A-team of the Niche Hospitality Group. We were able to engage with the chefs as they were making and plating the foods. Lots of questions were volleyed back and forth from our foodies to the chefs, and there was a lot to be learned. For example; Chef Neil took the opportunity to teach the chefs about butchering the pig that was to become the integral part of this evenings tasty choices. Everything from the pig was integrated and used for the offerings that night, so the sampling was diverse and there was certainly something for everyone.

For this foodie though, the Banh Mi Poutine, Oysters on the Half Shell, and the Porchetta Con Pimenton were the leading favorites. Now don’t get me wrong, the other servings were mighty yummy, some were spicy with heat and flavor, like the Oxacan Chorizo Taco’s, but when you put them side by side up against Porchetta cooked and seasoned as perfectly as this one, there is not competition who will raise to the top. This Porchetta con Pimenton was accompanied by some pickled onion, a  shaved carrot salad and a crunchy topping of crushed almonds. And it melted in your mouth, mingling the flavors until you crunched down on the nuts and everything integrated to a bit of heaven on your taste buds. This needs to be on some menu, any Bocado please, so I can have this experience again, and other can fall for it for the first time.

That’s the one bit of scariness we had to deal with here in the test kitchen. What if you fall for something and then, through the fates, it never ends up seeing the light of day at any of their restaurants? Shutter.

Test kitchens are the ideal places for a true food lover, the chefs get to be creative and yes- I’ll say the cliche- “work out of the box” that constrains them when having to create for the mass appeal. They can take risks and serve up some spiced pork spread for us and we will all take willing bites and shake our heads with the thoughts “this is so good…I’ll have more” while these items may not get as much play on a restaurant menu with timid diners. With us, its all “Taylor Ham Slider? yes please, pass me another! That Oyster has uni and quail egg mixed with grapefruit and a bit of bacon? I’ll take 3 please… ”

Perhaps you can see that I am a big fan of the adventurous and unique? When I dine out, I want to sample things I can not easily make at home. I want to have mixes of flavors that make my imagination flair up and make me crave more. And that is what we found in the Niche Test Kitchen. I, for one, can not wait to see what Chef Neil and Chef Steve come up with next.

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Dana’s Take on the Worcester Test Kitchen

Spiced Pork Spread From Niche Test Kitchen in Worcester

Spiced Pork Spread From Niche Test Kitchen in Worcester

Hidden in plain sight, right next to Mezcal, on the ground floor of a parking garage in Worcester is Niche Hospitality Group’s newest culinary destination, The Test Kitchen. This will be a place for the chefs to experiment with new or updated recipes and interact with the diners. It’s also a great chance for the patrons to interact with the chefs and ask them questions and give feedback, and they honestly want your honest feedback.

The chefs at Niche laid out a 6 course tasting menu for us titled Nose to Tail, with all the tastings, except for dessert, involving pork of some kind. This menu was absolutely delicious and featured something for pretty much everyone.

Pork Bratwurst with pickled vegetable relish: The bratwurst itself was fantastic. Firm and very flavorful with great texture. The pickled vegetable relish’s slightly acidic slant really worked well with the meat giving an overall pop of flavor that was excellent. The roll was soft and subtle, letting the meat take control.

Spiced Pork Spread: Pork pâté served with toasted baguette, pickled mustard seed and a couple local cheeses (goat and gouda). Served chilled, this reminded me more of a terrine than a pâté. The crisp, toasted bread was a great counterpoint to the soft, creamy pork, generating a great mix of textures and a pretty intense flavor. A little of this goes a long way, it’s packed with taste, but not overpowering when taken with the bread. The soft creamy goat cheese also provided a punch of flavor and held up very well with the pork providing an overall great taste.

Banh Mi Poutine: French fries with shredded port, pickled vegetables, soy mayo, sliced fresh jalapeño and cilantro. For this being a french fry plate, this was not heavy at all. The picked veggies and jalapeño gave this dish a great bite and refreshing feel rather than the dense heavy look it had. The rich taste of the pork was softened by the crisp pickled vegetables with the jalapeño giving this a decent amount of heat without being overpowering. Overall, this was a terrific mix of flavors and a great dish that should be on a menu somewhere.

Oaxacan Chorizo Tacos: Crumbled pork chorizo with a saffron corn salsa, creamy adobo sauce, fresh radish and cilantro, served on a housemade corn tortilla. Another great mix of textures and flavors. The chorizo was strong and flavorful and the adobo sauce complemented the chorizo perfectly, creating a delicious overall flavor. The cold corn salsa played against the hot meat perfectly and together this was a fantastic taco, both exploding with flavor while not being too heavy.

Sopecitos de Carnitas: Mini masa sopes topped with pork, avacado salsa, black beans, habanero oil and cotija cheese. This dish was yet another fantastic marriage of textures and flavors. The sope’s soft texture and mild flavor balanced the strong, smoky pork and sauce perfectly. Each solo was very good, but together both parts are elevated, making a truly excellent dish.

Porchetta con Pimenton: Slow roasted porchetta with pickled onions, shaved carrot salad and crushed marcona. My favorite dish of the evening. The skin was crunchy and exploding with flavor while the meat itself was juicy, tender and delicious. Each and every bite of this was a wonderful experience. This was so packed with flavor and so rich, I couldn’t eat a ton, but what I did was truly wonderful.