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Fattoush Salad

Fattoush Salad from Le Mirage on June Street in Worcester, Massachusetts

Fattoush Salad from Le Mirage on June Street in Worcester, Massachusetts

It’s been a long while since I have been able to attend a Worcester Foodies event and was eager for the opportunity to see the inside of a building that I driven by at least once a day for the last 10 years yet have never entered—Le Mirage!

I don’t think anyone was surprised that the “wine lady” brought 6 bottles of wine to the BYOB.  Le Mirage has a range of cuisine that smudges the line between Middle Eastern and Italian so I couldn’t just settle on the Billy Joel “bottle of red, bottle of white.”  I was just as interested in what everyone else brought!  There was a wide range of brands and formats; 375ml splits (Cavit pinot noir), tetra packs which are essentially “wine juice boxes” (Bandit Sangria and Moscato),  as well as old stand bys (Bogle: both “The Phantom” and Merlot).

BYOB restaurants almost force you to drink wines which have broad range of appeal and pairing potential because their cuisine is not designed around their wine program.

The meal started out with veggies and homemade hummus.  A tricky pairing. The texture f the hummus was soupier than I am used to but the flavor were explosive with lingering lemon, garlic and nuts. I reached for the Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Sparkling first and struck gold. Complementary citrus and toast aromas emerge in both the wine and the dish.  A close second was the mouthwatering and fragrant Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc which was well suited for the acidity in the tangy hummus  and the flavorful vegetables.

For my main course I opted for the Fattoush salad.  I had it made to order by adding grilled salmon and grilled steak tips so I could experiment with the pairings.  The salad itself comprised of tender greens, a tangy lemon and mint dressing with fragrant garlic pita chips and feta cheese.  There was a bit too much feta for my liking but it was easy to eat around the excess.  The fresh and flaky salmon was grilled to perfection and was seasoned very simply so it did not over power the flavorful salad.  The grilled steak tips were tender and juicy with a savory smoky/sweet flavor.  The salty feta and acids in the dressing make pairing a challenge. Salt can magnify acids and astringency in wines.   The aromas of the overall dish are intense and needs a similarly fragrant wine for a successful pairing.

On its own the salmon was perfect for the 90+ Cellars Sta Rita Chardonnay intensifying the lemon and tropical notes of the wine.  However, the oils in the salad obscured the delicate flavors of the chardonnay making it taste bland.  The Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc fared much better bringing out the ripe green aromas of the salad and the wine with a light weight which complimenting the flaky fish.  Surprisingly, the Sauvignon Blanc was a suitable pairing for the steak.  However, the smoky aromas of the steak lingered well beyond the flavor of the wine.

I was hoping to break the pairing rules for the steak but the hands down winner for overall best pairing has to go to the A to Z Pinot Noir, Oregon.  Fragrant, well balanced, flavorful and medium bodied this wine paired well with both the Salmon, steak and the salad.  Loaded with ripe fruit the wine complemented the steak’s mouth filling and savory flavors.  However, it was light enough so not to overpower the subtle flavors of the salmon.  Had the salmon been poached rather than grilled the wine would have taken over the dish.

The food was terrific, portions were large, and the prices were reasonable but not cheap (my bill was $28). However, the highlight of the night really was the service.  The wait staff was very attentive, accommodating, and well trained.   I was delighted when the chef came out at the end of the meal and told us all that “It was an honor to cook for you.”  This is a sure sign that an establishment is dedicated to hospitality. I will definitely be going back to this neighborhood BYOB.

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Merlot: A Call for Redemption

Citizen Merlots

Citizen Merlots

Merlot, meaning “little blackbird” in French, has been used to produce some of the most important wines in the world.  It offers notes of plum, blackberry, cassis, mocha and dark chocolate, and can be described as similar to Cabernet Sauvignon but with softer tannins and a more feminine structure.  It sounds like an enjoyable wine, so why has Merlot fallen out of favor with much of the wine consuming public?

To find the answer I think we have to look into the past. Merlot had long been a favorite in wine circles and because of its popularity, became the chosen varietal for mass-produced jug wines.  It is much easier to make an inexpensive Merlot palatable than an inexpensive Cabernet Sauvignon, since the Cab tends to be higher in harsh tannins. As production of cheap Merlot increased, so did the disdain for it.  However, writing off Merlot can cause as much self-deprivation as writing off Chablis and Burgundy – two varietals similarly associated with notoriously cheap jug wines.

The last nail in the coffin of Merlot’s reputation was the critically acclaimed movie from 2004, Sideways. The movie follows two middle-aged men as they take a week long trip through the California Wine Country with one of the men continually denigrating Merlot and speaking highly of Pinot Noir. As audiences were bad-mouthing Merlot, and swearing it off forever, they actually missed the final punch line of the movie, which was the main character, Miles, drinking his prized 1961 Château Cheval Blanc, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

After the release of the movie, Pinot Noir’s popularity sky-rocketed and Merlot’s popularity plummeted, leaving Merlot producers with a lot of work ahead of them to fix the tarnished image. Ironically enough, the abundance of poorly made Merlot has now been replaced with an oversaturation of poorly made Pinot Noir.

Katie Kelly with one of her favorite Merlots, Seven Hills

The intention of this piece is not to bash the admittedly hilarious movie, Sideways, or to claim that Merlot is the greatest varietal ever to exist. Being somewhat a Merlot ambassador myself though, I am constantly trying to convert the staff at The Citizen and our guests into Merlot enthusiasts by asking them to give the wine a chance. To do this, we serve an array of some of the best and most affordable expressions of Merlot we can find, starting with Charles Smith’s Velvet Devil. This wine offers great depth and richness with notes of dark plum, mocha and coffee, proving to be a true crowd-pleaser, even for guests that “don’t usually like Merlot.”  Paired with the earthy cheeses, beef brisket or  dry-aged sirloins also found at The Citizen, Velvet Devil Merlot is the perfect complement.

After you try the Velvet Devil Merlot, we have other great options available by the glass or bottle from some of the great Merlot-producing regions of the world, such as Washington State, Sonoma Valley, and Bordeaux. It’s time to put down the Pinot Noir this one time, and participate in Merlot’s great redemption.