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Deadhorse Hill: A Trip Away Without Leaving Worcester

Spaetzle from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA

Once a hotel (Bay State House), deadhorse hill has reclaimed the history of the building it occupies dating back to the early 1900’s. Then, the headquarters for the Worcester Automobile Club held the Dead Horse Hill Climb from 1905-1911, where the best drivers and fastest cars would compete in a one mile race up Stafford Street- a steep 16% incline. Today, the owner/operators of deadhorse hill pay homage to the buildings origins and hope to return it to its glory days of being a prominent social destination.

The trio of owners clearly took their charge of creating a sense of nostalgia and integrity quite seriously; Sourcing antique glassware and china that recall your childhood memories (vintage dinner plates with butterfly gold patterns to the iconic Ronald McDonald collectible water glass) and outfitting their entire front-of-house staff with shirts displaying different Worcester designs from Worcester Wares (a retail store with all Worcester-themed goods just a block away on Commercial St.).

Memphis Rib from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA
Memphis Rib from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA

I appreciate small details and deadhorse hill scored high in this department. With a modern but simple twist, the menu came to us on clipboard with a selection of small plates (more like an appetizer) and large plates (entrée). While it all looked amazing, I decided to order two small plates. I was a little concerned it might not be enough food but it turned out to be more than sufficient. As to why I chose small plates, well… I am of German descent and anytime I have an opportunity to order Spaetzle, I’m in! This was no ordinary German noodle; This Spaetzle was pan-fried with mustard, sugar snap peas and a dollop of crème fraiche. The first few bites were good but as I got deeper into the bowl and combined the noodle with the sauce, it went from good to amazing. With different textures and flavors, this meant the rest of the meal had a lot to live up to. To go with it, I elected the Memphis Ribs with a big helping of house-made bread & butter pickles and a vinegar slaw of red cabbage. The plate came with 4 smokey dry-rubbed ribs. The meat literally fell off the bone. If I wasn’t in the company of some very lovely people then I probably wouldn’t have bothered with utensils. I’m not a huge fan of sweet pickles (more of a dill girl) but they were fresh and crunchy. On the other hand, I absolutely love pickled vegetables and the red cabbage slaw was terrific and very balanced.

The menu is a little pricier than other restaurants in the downtown area but I felt that the prices were justified. Everything is made from scratch- curing their own meats and making their own sauces. Our server, Carlos, told us Jared (owner and Chef de Cuisine) is a like a mad scientist, letting things marinate and creating special concoctions. Carlos was a wonderful server- super friendly and informative. He wasn’t afraid to give a recommendation, which I admire in a server.

I am thrilled to see a restaurant like this in downtown Worcester. It felt like fine dining without all of the pomp & circumstance. The owners have had some good press and I believe they’ve set the bar for other restaurants in the area. Although they’re not from Worcester originally, they’ve totally embraced the city, the people and the history. That’s a winning combination!

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Foodies Take deadhorse hill

Executive Chef Jared Forman preparing meals while overlooking the dining room at deadhorse hill in Worcester, MA

The term foodie has become the bastard child of the food industry, giving supposed insult to those with culinary training, and while many are dissecting the meaning of the word, Mass Foodies continues to provide a new definition to the trending term. It isn’t just about indulging in every personal food desire or eating out simply because of your love affair with all things delicious but instead, being a Mass Foodie is about answering that one fateful question, “So, how was it?”

And Mass Foodies’ latest dining experience was nothing less than incredible.

deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA
deadhorse hill is on Main Street in Worcester, MA

There is nothing refined about the originality and passionate approach taken at deadhorse hill. The menu items, which change constantly to accommodate the local fresh flavors, are limited to a handful of carefully crafted small and large plate options and hold a distinct level of food appreciation. Executive Chef Jared Forman, is not only a “mastermind of food creations,” as stated by wait staff team member, Carlos Guzman, but is also a man of ambitious aspirations. Influenced by his New York ways and that unmatchable New York style, deadhorse hill is the new reason to head to downtown Worcester on a Tuesday night.

“The hip vibe, eclectic decor and on-trend food has labeled me a fan,” said Lynn Beauregard, a Mass Foodies contributor since 2012. There is something to be said when a restaurant can create an atmosphere decked with sophistication, minimalistic style and brilliant food choices and deadhorse hill is dead on with their trendy food and decor combination. “I’ve been here several times since it opened and each time it doesn’t disappoint,” said Drew Wheelock, contributor of Mass Foodies for over 2 years.

Southern Fried Chix Thighs from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA
Southern Fried Chix Thighs

The Memphis Ribs and the Southern Fried Chix Thighs were two small plate dishes being debated amongst the group. While half of the Foodies named the Memphis Ribs their approved favorite, the other half made a good argument for the honey and hot sauce drizzled Fried Chix Thighs. “The ribs were delicious,” said Amy Peterson, a true devotee of Worcester and the food scene, “It was so delicious that I was showing off how clean my rib bone was to everyone at the table. The meat just fell right off the bone. It was simply that good.” And while everyone loves a good, rubbed, fall-off-the-bone kind of rib, Robyn Lane vouched for the chicken thighs. “That honey and hot sauce was fantastic. It made the dish amazing. I could have eaten more.” But while the Memphis Ribs and the Southern Fried Chix Thighs were the hot ticket on the small plates list, it was the large plate Swordfish and Summer Ratatouille that stole the show.

“The swordfish was cooked perfectly. The mixed flavors of the cherry tomatoes, squash and eggplant were incredible,” said Dana Lane, an original member of the Mass Foodies group. Beauregard agreed with Lane, leaving no signs of leftovers of her Swordfish and Summer Ratatouille dish. While everyone enjoyed the creatively appealing dishes, Lindsay Corcoran soaked up the charred sungold marinara from her Rigatoni dish. “I have been waiting for Chef Forman to introduce one of his pastas and I was not disappointed. I mean, I was stealing bread from others around me just to soak up that delicious rigatoni sauce. It was a classic dish but with much more satisfaction.”

So, how was it? It was a grade above the rest. Deadhorse hill is a place where Executive Chef Forman is the mad scientist and his dishes are his impeccable creations (like the duck!). “Cooking is like eating a delicious meal ten times a night, for me. I prep, cook and plate the dish and then it goes out to the tables. The best part is that I get to do it all over again with the next order,” says Forman.

Swordfish withSummer Ratatouille— cherry tomatoes, squash, and eggplant.
Swordfish withSummer Ratatouille— cherry tomatoes, squash, and eggplant.