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Wines of Piedmont: An Italian Love Affair

Katie with the Damilano Lecinquevigne Barolo at the Citizen Wine Bar in Worcester

Katie with the Damilano Lecinquevigne Barolo at the Citizen Wine Bar in Worcester

Italian wines have often been a household favorite, held near and dear to the consumers that love drinking them.  Italians love to eat and they love to drink good wine with every meal.  They go hand in hand, and there is never one without the other.  So naturally, Italians make their wines to retain vibrant acidity, which is the key to pairing food and wine.  This relationship of food and wine is a way of life for them, and something they don’t take lightly.  This passion is expressed through winemaking excellence, creating some of the most exquisite wines in the world, some that rival even the finest Burgundies and Bordeauxs.

Damilano Lecinquevigne BaroloTuscany has received fame and widespread notoriety for their traditional age-worthy treasures, as well as their innovative wine-making styles presented in the form of Super Tuscans.  One region that is lesser known, but just as worthy of attention is Piedmont, located in the northwest corner of Italy, at the foot of the Alps.

Piedmont, literally translates to “foot of the mountain”, specifically the Alps and the Apennines.  There are also several rivers that run through this winegrowing region, which moderate the hot summer temperatures and also create a valley floor full of hillsides.  It is on these south-facing hillsides that all the vineyards are planted, because they provide good draining and ample sunlight.  Aside from the ideal climate for the native varietals that the region is known for, it is the passion of the Piemontese winemakers that makes these wines so impressive.  It’s very rare that the earnestness, honesty and integrity of a winemaker is so distinctly expressed in a wine, that you can actually taste it.  If tasting honesty in a wine seems like an absurd notion, you will have to just try one of the following.

As with all Italian winegrowing regions, there are many indigenous varietals in Piedmont.  However, the most important are Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, and Moscato.  Nebbiolo is the thin-skinned, high acid and high tannin grape that makes the national treasures, Barolo and Barbaresco.  Appropriately nicknamed “the king and queen of wine,” these wines are powerful and austere, but have a refined elegance, with notes of strawberry, chocolate, rose petal, tobacco, spice box and white truffle.  Barbera is not quite as powerful, but it is just as important, and its style can range from simple to serious.  It is medium-bodied, dark in color and very low tannin, creating a juicy wine with high acid, and notes of red and black cherry, cranberry, raspberry and spice.  Dolcetto is darker and more brooding with ripe black fruit notes, black pepper and a smokiness that goes well with its rich texture.  The last honorable mention is Moscato, the varietal used to make Moscato d’Asti, a frizzante or slightly sparkling wine, which is once again, the hot trend in the wine world.  Understandably so, it is just so delicious, with its peach and floral notes, natural sweetness, and enough racy acidity to balance that sweetness.

As mentioned before, these wines were made to drink with food.  Whether you are pairing a Barolo with hand-made meat ravioli in a delicate cream sauce, or having a glass of Barbera with your favorite brick-oven pizza, you are in for an unparalleled food and wine experience.  Italians believe that good food matched with good wine are a necessity and they must be shared with good company.  We share the same philosophy at The Citizen, and want to invite you to indulge in the fine, yet simple things in life. It will certainly be an affair to remember.

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Merlot: A Call for Redemption

Citizen Merlots

Citizen Merlots

Merlot, meaning “little blackbird” in French, has been used to produce some of the most important wines in the world.  It offers notes of plum, blackberry, cassis, mocha and dark chocolate, and can be described as similar to Cabernet Sauvignon but with softer tannins and a more feminine structure.  It sounds like an enjoyable wine, so why has Merlot fallen out of favor with much of the wine consuming public?

To find the answer I think we have to look into the past. Merlot had long been a favorite in wine circles and because of its popularity, became the chosen varietal for mass-produced jug wines.  It is much easier to make an inexpensive Merlot palatable than an inexpensive Cabernet Sauvignon, since the Cab tends to be higher in harsh tannins. As production of cheap Merlot increased, so did the disdain for it.  However, writing off Merlot can cause as much self-deprivation as writing off Chablis and Burgundy – two varietals similarly associated with notoriously cheap jug wines.

The last nail in the coffin of Merlot’s reputation was the critically acclaimed movie from 2004, Sideways. The movie follows two middle-aged men as they take a week long trip through the California Wine Country with one of the men continually denigrating Merlot and speaking highly of Pinot Noir. As audiences were bad-mouthing Merlot, and swearing it off forever, they actually missed the final punch line of the movie, which was the main character, Miles, drinking his prized 1961 Château Cheval Blanc, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

After the release of the movie, Pinot Noir’s popularity sky-rocketed and Merlot’s popularity plummeted, leaving Merlot producers with a lot of work ahead of them to fix the tarnished image. Ironically enough, the abundance of poorly made Merlot has now been replaced with an oversaturation of poorly made Pinot Noir.

Katie Kelly with one of her favorite Merlots, Seven Hills

The intention of this piece is not to bash the admittedly hilarious movie, Sideways, or to claim that Merlot is the greatest varietal ever to exist. Being somewhat a Merlot ambassador myself though, I am constantly trying to convert the staff at The Citizen and our guests into Merlot enthusiasts by asking them to give the wine a chance. To do this, we serve an array of some of the best and most affordable expressions of Merlot we can find, starting with Charles Smith’s Velvet Devil. This wine offers great depth and richness with notes of dark plum, mocha and coffee, proving to be a true crowd-pleaser, even for guests that “don’t usually like Merlot.”  Paired with the earthy cheeses, beef brisket or  dry-aged sirloins also found at The Citizen, Velvet Devil Merlot is the perfect complement.

After you try the Velvet Devil Merlot, we have other great options available by the glass or bottle from some of the great Merlot-producing regions of the world, such as Washington State, Sonoma Valley, and Bordeaux. It’s time to put down the Pinot Noir this one time, and participate in Merlot’s great redemption.