Volturno is most definitely one of my new favorite restaurants in Worcester. I was enticed first by its attractive location, renovated interior, historical “Buick” charm and over my last 5 visits…the food. On this gorgeous spring evening out with the Worcester Foodies, I had convinced myself to order something other than pizza. This was a difficult decision as my love affair with the pistachio pizza has become a relationship I’ve been forced to share with my husband. My mind was made up before entering the restaurant…the half Misty Knoll chicken, butternut squash, foraged mushrooms, and brussel sprouts. The entree sounded deliciously organic and absolutely delightful. One can imagine my disappointment when the menu arrived and the waiter explained that they had switched over to their “Spring” menu. Frantically, I perused the updated menu, and made a surprisingly simple decision…I would begin with the grilled calamari over hummus and have the orrachetti with broccoli rabe, sausage, and chilies.
The appetizer arrived and a new affair commenced almost immediately. The heaping portion of calamari was grilled and drizzled with olive oil and bright lemon juice over a mound of freshly mashed chick peas. It was love at first bite! The calamari was cooked to perfection…not chewy with a slightly charred flavor from the grill. The fragrant lemon and olive oil added a fresh dressing to the dish which was not overwhelming or heavy. I shared approximately two bites with my husband and devoured the rest on my own.
My pasta arrived shortly thereafter and was gigantic. Clearly this was going to be a gluttonous evening when my eyes were larger than my stomach. I dug into the al dente pasta with vigor and my taste buds were met first with the bitterness of the broccolli rabe, then the distinct fennel taste from the sausage, and finally the spicy bite of the chilies. All three flavors melded together like a beautiful symphony. The grated cheese on top added a welcomed creaminess. Having already consumed a hefty appetizer, I cold not finish this dish, however, my fellow foodies devoured what was left practically licking the plate clean, all in agreement — the dish was a culinary masterpiece!
I look forward to continuing my love affair with Volturno and will explore the menu which has yet to disappoint! -AV
