Posted on

Chef’s Best: The Champagne Experience

Chef Steve Champagne introducing the first course at the Chef's Best dinner at Bocado in Wellesley, MA.
Michael Covino, president of Niche Hospitality Group, talking to attendees about each wine pairing during Chef's Best: The Champagne Experience at Bocado in Wellesley, MA
Michael Covino, president of Niche Hospitality Group, talking to attendees about each wine pairing during Chef’s Best: The Champagne Experience at Bocado in Wellesley, MA

Mass Foodies celebrated the fifth installment of their popular Chef’s Best dinner series at Bocado Wellesley. Touted as “The Champagne Experience”, eager guests arrived for an evening of food, fun, and education as Executive Chef Steve Champagne created a unique and flavorful dining experience for his guests.

Bocado Tapas Bar has restaurants in Worcester, Providence, and Wellesley and has introduced the concept of tapas dining (small dishes to be shared) to thousands of New England diners each year. In Spain, tapas are a way of life, infusing a sense of home with the social connection so many yearn to create. But for The Champagne Experience, Chef Champagne and his team stepped outside the tapas box, pushed the limits of creativity and delivered a meal his guests will be talking about for a long time.

Pan-Roasted Bacon-Wrapped Short Rib: Charcoal charred celery root purée, mushroom conserve, rioja glaze
Pan-Roasted Bacon-Wrapped Short Rib: Charcoal charred celery root purée, mushroom conserve, rioja glaze

Expectations where high and Bocado delivered as the night began with an elegant display of artisan cheeses and charcuterie, assorted pinchos and tapas. From the start, the dishes became a transformative experience, bringing out the Spanish admirer within everyone. As Chef Champagne expressed his passions for foods and inspirations found in the Spanish culture, Michael Covino, President of Niche Hospitality Group, complemented each dish with a perfectly paired glass of vino.

Diverse, eclectic and true to form, the first three courses inspired the palates of each guest, bringing approval with every bite. The Josper Grilled Octopus Salad – a salad of beet carpaccio, parsnip, carrots, micro arugula, lemon and olive oil blended with a sherry balsamic, Maldon salt and crispy shallots – was a light start to the meals. A delicately presented dish with a fresh scent, the Josper Grilled Octopus Salad was served with a glass of La Cana (Albarino) wine.

 

Kurobuta Pork Loin: Roasted Brussels, buttercup squash, foie gras maple syrup, crumbled house sausage
Kurobuta Pork Loin: Roasted Brussels, buttercup squash, foie gras maple syrup, crumbled house sausage

Diving into the second course, Chef Chamagne’s creative interpretation of a “Spanish Western Omelet” was an easy way to open up the appetite of the room for a savory dish follow-up. Paired with the Muga Rosé from Rioja, Spain, this dish was a great example of the event’s purpose: to blend tastes from Spain and The West. “Rioja, Spain is not seen as a destination for visitors but it is a must if wine is of importance,” said Covino. “The Rose is made from red grapes and a mix of old and new world. While some of the blend is created in oak barrels the other is kept in stainless steel for freshness and youth,” he added.

Lemon Olive Oil Cake: Currata, honey roasted apples, toasted salty caramel
Lemon Olive Oil Cake: Currata, honey roasted apples, toasted salty caramel

The pork was featured next, with two interpretations of the succulent meat for the third and fourth course. First, a Kurobuta Pork consisting of Berkshire pork, roasted Brussels, buttercup squash, foie gras maple syrup and crumbled host sausage was paired with a glass of El Chaparral – a French influenced wine created by a one-woman wine maker in Spain. This medium red wine is bottled in a Burgundy-style bottle to connect to its French roots, and paired perfectly with the pork. Next, a Roasted Bacon-Wrapped Short Rib served over a charcoal-charred celery root puree, with mushroom conserva, rioja sauce and fried capers was served with a glass of Alonso del Yerro. This wine is bottled along the river, in higher temperatures, giving it a stronger structure, deep red color and incredibly rich and powerful flavors which complemented the rich meaty short rib.

Ending the night was bittersweet but delicious as guests were presented with a Lemon Olive Cake lined with honey roasted apples, salted caramel sauce, and burrata cheese.

The tour of Spain presented by Chef Champagne lasted only three hours, but will not be easily forgotten by the folks that attended. At the hands of Chef Champagne, the event truly embodied the concept of Chef’s Best, encouraging Chef Champagne to go beyond the Bocado brand and create dishes he considers his best.

Posted on

Wines For Your Summer BBQ

Pairing white with BBQWhen the weather is hot and there’s barbecue on the grill, no one can deny that an ice cold beer is exactly what you want. However, anyone that has properly paired a beer with rich, smoky flavorful barbeque can attest to the fact that that is just too much weight. You are not pairing a Bud Light or Corona with BBQ. Are these refreshing on the beach for day-drinking? Absolutely. (Within legal parameters, of course.) Although, when it comes to pairing a beverage with food, you have to consider many factors that essentially match the two. Ideally, you are pairing a heavier beer that can match the weight, volume and texture of your meal. And usually your stomach has room for one of these, maybe two, before you feel like taking a nap and calling it a day. And who wants to miss the rest of the party? So, as the forever advocate of wine as the ideal pairing for food, I will guide you to the perfect wine pairings with BBQ. Although I’m specifically tailoring these pairings to BBQ, the same principles apply to all food and wine pairings.

Pairing red with BBQ.Weight. Volume. Texture. These measurements or characteristics are usually found in physics and textiles, but, honestly, wine is so much more fun. Weight: how heavy is the dish? It is light and refreshing or heavy and filling? Whatever it is, you will want to match an equally weighty wine with it. Logic may suggest that you balance a heavy dish with a light wine to balance it out. Generally speaking, you can’t do this. One will overpower the other. Although there are always exceptions to any rule, this is where volume comes in. Volume: how loud is the dish? How bold are the flavors and spices? Barbeque is bold, and as beautiful as a Pinot Noir from Burgundy can be, it is simply not loud enough for the grill, not if you are grilling properly. A wine should not overpower a wine, and food should not overpower a wine. The last aspect, which may not be as vital as weight and volume in a dish, is the texture. Texture: how does it feel? Flavor and body only mean so much if the texture of the food matches the texture of the wine. As far as barbequed foods go, you want something rich and silky to wash it all down with and you want it to make you want another glass. Texture in wine is crucial because you want it to match the richness of the foods you’re eating, while being refreshing enough to keep drinking.

Although one can go on and on about the fundamentals of pairing food with wine, these elements cover the basics. As part of my “market research,” I tried delicious local BBQ with some of my favorite wines. I was able to taste through some key characteristics that were crucial to a solid barbeque pairing. I’m sorry Sauvignon Blanc, I love you, but this just isn’t going to work out this time. The best characteristics in wine that enhanced my dining experience were: fruit-fowardness, not too much acidity, and neutral tannins in red wine. It’s actually very interesting because traditionally subtle fruit and high acid are what make wines food-friendly. But we are talking about American food, and ‘Murica doesn’t like rules.

Now that there is an understanding of how and why, I will suggest the top 3 whites and top 3 reds for your BBQ. Interestingly enough, my two runners up for the whites are European varietals in a new world expression. Albariño and Pinot Gris from Oregon are a perfect pairing, especially with the Mustard BBQ sauce. They both have the balanced acidity for the mustard component often found in barbecue foods, but the richness in fruit to stand up to the weight and volume as well. The best white wine for BBQ is Chenin Blanc, specifically from South Africa. Chenin Blanc has the body to stand up to richer dishes like Mac n’ Cheese, potato salad and all meats. It even pairs with baked beans surprisingly. Chenins have the full body of Chardonnay, but generally a higher acidity and not the same oak treatment, so they are naturally more food-friendly. The best part about the BBQ food-friendliness is how great Chenin Blanc is with spicy food. They don’t dull heat, but they do soften and round it out. An honorable mention is rosé. It doesn’t necessarily enhance BBQ, but it doesn’t hurt it either. Rosé: the eternal people-pleaser. (It is definitely a middle child.) As far as reds go, there are few surprises there. You want bold fruit, toned down tannins, and rich body. Ultimately, the three best were Australian Shiraz, Cotes-du-Rhone and Petite Sirah. If you want to enhance spice, go for the Cotes-du-Rhone. If you want to soften the spice and round out the texture, drink a California Petite Sirah.

What makes these pairings so interesting is that these are not traditionally food-friendly wines, as mentioned before. Barbeque is a very American style of cuisine which allows American wines to shine. There is no better time to celebrate this exquisite pairing than now. Put that beer down, and enjoy your BBQ with some wine today.

Katie Kelly, showing off some options for pairing wine with your summer BBQ.