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ISG’s Culinary Retreat in a Bustling City

Enjoying the warmer weather we turn to a summer series visiting museums to partake in a summer journey of art and food, after all, #FoodIsArt. (Eat at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; Peabody Essex Museum; Worcester Art Museum; Norman Rockwell MuseumIsabella Stewart Gardner Museum… and more).

As a “visionary creator of what remains one of the most remarkable and intimate collections of art in the world today and a dynamic supporter of her time, encouraging music, literature, dance and creative thinking across artistic disciplines,” Isabella Stewart Gardner left an artistic imprint of the Renaissance in the heart of Boston.

The Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum collection is comprised of more than 2,500 objects – paintings, sculptures, furniture, textiles, drawings, silver, ceramics, illuminated manuscripts, rare books, photographs and letters from ancient Rome, Medieval Europe, Renaissance Italy, Asia, the Islamic world and 19th-century France and America. The museum exudes feelings of complexity and intimacy, birthing an atmosphere of simultaneous tranquility and amazement. The works of art flood the walls with permanency and richness, which slowly parlay into the creative culinary offerings of Café G.

Café G, once known as The Gardner Café, is a historical place of peace due to its embodiment of historical recipes prepared by Isabella Gardner herself. Meals here are characterized by the natural beauty of courtyard dining and deep connections to music and art. The menu is a seasonal interpretation of Gardner’s cultural appreciation and operates under the leadership of Chef and Owner, Peter Crowley. Café G has received praise for its award-winning desserts and inspirational lunch menu.

With a menu as eclectic as the museum’s collection, Café G serves up a commitment to sourcing ingredients of the highest quality from local, independent producers and creates an artistic spin to its seasonal offerings. From the crispy chickpea fries with sriracha aioli to the asparagus ‘wellington’ with morels and sauce gribiche, Café G explores the palates of its guest by emulating the diverse collection of art.

While the main plates are a seasonal staple on an ever-changing menu, Café G boasts a variety of well-versed dishes like the polenta Milanese – with creamy mushrooms and house made ricotta – and Eva’s greens and grilled steak salad – with blue cheese, red onion, toasted almond, and lemon. However, the daily specials are what truly embrace the grand personality of Gardner and her love of the arts.

The salmon – pan seared with pea green, roasted carrots, daikon radish, sugar snap peas, almonds, nasturtium pesto, pink peppercorn dressing, lemon vin on the greens and topped with feta – appeases all of the senses. With an aromatic freshness, the dish lives up to its claim of exclusivity. Ambiance is established by the natural beauty of the Courtyard, an ideal backdrop for the salmon dish paired with Café G’s rosé sangria – a rosé infused with peach, rosemary, and citrus. Elevating the concept of lunch, the Courtyard experience at Café G mimics the perfectly curated philosophies that dictated Gardner’s perpetual fascination.

Named as “Boston’s Best Indulgence” by The Improper Bostonian, the bread pudding is the dessert that fully immerses guests to acknowledge food as an art form. The banana bread pudding is served in a shareable portion with maple pecan butter; this dish deserves its rank at the top of the dessert menu. Accompanied with an espresso, the banana bread pudding is a full representation of Gardner’s larger than life personality.

The Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum is a treasure in Boston’s history and a staple in today’s art culture. With its subtle exterior, the world inside is but a magical emporium – housing some of the greatest periods of art the world has seen – and Café G is an extension of its allure.

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The Chameleon’s Rub and Pull, a BBQ Burger

The Chameleon's Rub and Pull BBQ Burger.

When I found out that a new restaurant was opening up in the same location as the old Mezcal/The Fix/The Usual, I was less excited than I was skeptical. Given the circumstances under which the previous restaurant closed, I was worried future customers might be deterred from trying something new in the same space. It is worth noting that both Mezcal and The Fix were wildly successful at 166 Shrewsbury Street. So successful in fact, that they needed to uproot to larger venues to handle the demand from customers – not a bad problem to have in the restaurant business. Now, the space is occupied by The Chameleon.

As noted on the The Chameleon’s website, it’s a restaurant that isn’t so much about the reptile itself, but what it represents. The food scene is all about being able to change and adapt to your environment. By being able to constantly adapt to your surroundings, you can evolve and inevitably survive in an industry that is ever-changing.

The menu and concept of The Chameleon will change on the first day of each new season to keep things new, exciting, and fresh. Since it opened in June, the concept has centered on BBQ. There is a lack of true BBQ places in Worcester and the surrounding areas, with the stellar exceptions of BT’s and Firefly’s. The Chameleon has found a nice niche (at least, for the next three months or so.) After perusing the menu, right off the bat, I noticed that I could’ve easily ordered a dozen items and fully engulfed myself in BBQ. However, I knew I had come for one thing, and that was a great burger.

I was immediately drawn to the Rub and Pull Burger ($13) for a few reasons that I will touch on shortly. This burger was topped with brisket, BBQ sauce, stout onion jam, smoked Gouda and served on a bulky roll. The first thing that drew me to the Rub and Pull was the promise of brisket. If I could have my choice of a cut of BBQ, I would choose brisket seven days a week and twice on Sunday. There’s something about the tenderness, the smokiness, and richness that always brings me back. The second thing that attracted me to this dish was the smoked Gouda, one of my personal favorite cheeses. It’s a hard cheese that takes a bit longer to melt compared to most other burger-bound cheeses and delivers an ever-so-slightly smokiness to whatever you’re pairing it with, whether it’s beer, fruits, nuts, chocolate or in this case, BBQ.

The burger was slightly overcooked but was instantly rescued by the juicy brisket piled on top. The brisket had a beautiful bark on it from hours of cooking and had just enough fat content to bind with the burger patty. The stout onion jam was definitely at the forefront of my palate. The BBQ sauce was sweet and smoky and helped blend all the flavors together. We were actually presented with a six-pack of house-made BBQ sauces to try on the side as well including a pineapple mango BBQ, Carolina and spicy. The bun helped hold everything in place. There is something about a reliable bulky roll when it comes to burgers and sandwiches in general that you just can’t go wrong with. On the side, there sat a mound of waffle fries, cooked to a crispy, light brown color and tender on the inside. Pair those with the house BBQ sauces and you have yourself a match made in waffle fry heaven.

While we finished up our meal, we sat admiring the pop of the bright green chameleon wallpaper. I was filled with hopeful optimism for The Chameleon. I felt as though they could use their new space to create a great brand and put out a product as unique and ever-changing as Worcester itself. The BBQ was a great foundation to start with, given the summer months. If there’s one strong concept that Worcester is missing, it is authentic BBQ. I was also excited to come back and try some of the other enticing offerings before Fall. In Autumn, The Chameleon will switch to German cuisine. If you have a burger suggestion for next month, give me a shout at @EDioufUC5 and you might see your favorite burger featured.