wild mushrooms | Mass Food & Wine

Seared Duck Breast at The Urban on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

The Urban Kitchen opened a few months ago so when it was announced WorcesterFoodies would be going there, I was excited. The old Coral Seafood space on Shrewsbury Street has been transformed into an sleek, modern space with an open kitchen visible form the dining room. The vibe is elegant while still casual and the menu is ambitious and creative, while still approachable.

Compliments of the house, we started our dining experience with house made ricotta served with truffle honey, chives and roasted croutons. The creamy cheese was firm, slightly salty and very flavorful while the truffle honey added a sweetness that pushed this dish to a whole new level.

The seasonal dinner menu had so many interesting items it made choosing an entree difficult. House made pastas, fish, pork, beef and even venison but when my dining companion chose the Artic Char, I immediately chose the Seared Duck Breast knowing I could taste her fish also!

Duck is a tricky dish, but not at The Urban. Perfectly seared duck breast, sat atop caramelized sweet potato and wild mushrooms. The duck, served with the skin, was crispy on the outside and moist, tender and perfectly medium rare on the inside. Flavorful but not gamey, the meat paired well with the earthy sweet potato and wild mushrooms.

The craftsmanship used to create this meal while not overly complicated, was outstanding. The portion size was generous, but not overwhelming. The sides were as well executed as the duck and the presentation superb. Overall, The Urban is a great addition to the Worcester dining scene and I for one will certainly return for what I anticipate will be another wonderful experience.

The term “authentic “ is often tossed around when describing restaurants that serve food typically identified with a certain country, and it is one I find entertainingly subjective. I’ve seen grown men (with the aid of a beverage or two) argue over what is “authentically Woostah,” having grown up blocks away from each other. I would never presume to qualify something as being authentic, but I can say that Mare e Monti Trattoria tastefully and subtly captured, from my experiences, the feel of a small restaurant in Italy. It was a rare treat to experience that in a local restaurant, and I would go back for that experience alone.

Confession: I am a sucker for mushrooms and cheese. So naturally when I came across the Vitello Vincenzo, a sautéed veal scaloppini with wild mushrooms, prosciutto and roasted garlic in a marsala wine sauce over choice of pasta, I looked no further. The meal did not disappoint, though I will admit it did not exceed expectations. The dish would have benefited from being slightly less salted, though it was by no means overwhelmingly so, and the portion of veal seemed a bit small in comparison with the rest of the plate. I chose to pair it with the Ruffino Superior Chianti, which was just as pleasant as the meal itself.

The highlight of the meal was the selection of various homemade desserts, and in particular the delectable almond tort which I was able to make disappear with the deftness of a seasoned magician. The exceptional service, ambiance, and dessert will bring me back to this diamond in the rough in search of a main dish that will rise to the level of excellence that abounds in Mare e Monti Trattoria.