When Flying Rhino opened at the turn of the century it heralded a new era for cuisine in Worcester. As much as I love a great diner, burger joint, and well established “usuals” I was desperate for a city menu that went beyond salads, burgers, steak, and fish and chips. The Flying Rhino was one of the risk takers to break out of the mold. They have stayed true to their model by offering a carefully balanced menu appealing to the comfort food addict as well as the adventurous foodie.
I admit that the parking situation in the Shrewsbury Street area keeps me away particularly since comparable restaurants such as EVO are nearby my locale and out of the Saturday night crowds on Shrewsbury Street. However, I was pleased to find that Flying Rhino has expanded their parking but we were the last to snag a spot on what should be a slow Tuesday night. I can’t imagine that the Rhino has a slow night thanks to their menu and drink list.
I wanted a taste of everything. We were getting ready to leave for warmer climes with lesser clothing therefore I exercised a certain amount of restraint when ordering. If I could have ordered anything I wanted from the last night of the winter menu offerings I would have selected Duck Farroto – Half duck roasted to perfection over sherry wild mushrooms farrotto with crispy fired cracklins $25. You had me at duck and sherry. I opted for a “healthier” choice although there were several which were on the smarter side.
I began with the Octoberfest salad which sounded outdated for April but the ingredients were appealing. The dish featured roasted butternut squash, beets, chorizo, goat cheese, pumpkin seeds on a bed of kale with honey mustard dressing. The honey mustard dressing was the shoe lace that gave this dish a seamless balance of seemingly opposite sensory perceptions sweet dressing, beets, and squash harmonizing with slightly bitter kale and goat cheese, topped off with savory chorizo and salty pumpkin seeds. This might have been enough to satisfy this gastronome but when is a gastronome ever satisfied?
I chose the herb and mustard encrusted salmon over black rice with bacon Brussels Sprouts with a balsamic drizzle. Bacon has this way of leaping of the page at me. It could be tongue with bacon and I might be tempted. Unfortunately my entrée was less successful than my starter. The black rice had the proper al dente texture but was cold and bland. The Brussels were overtly oily and overcooked and the bacon was scant. The fish was perfectly cooked but the overuse of the mustard seasoning overpowered the delicate flavors of the fish.
Not to worry. If you demand innovation in the Worcester restaurant industry you must naturally expect these things to happen. The Flying Rhino is doing far more right than they are doing wrong. Cold rice and over seasoned fish will not keep me from this great establishment in the Worcester food scene. -SW
