Posted on

Twisted Fork: The Name Says It All

Scallops and blood orange olive oil from Twisted Fork Bistro in Cherry Valley.

If you’ve never heard of the Twisted Fork Bistro, you may have heard of owner and Executive Chef Jay Powell a.k.a Uncle Jay. He’s known for his charisma and unapologetic persona. In the weeks leading up to my visit to the Twisted Fork, I wondered if Uncle Jay’s savory reputation would match his menu and flavors.

If you’re like me, you look at a restaurant’s menu in advance. I was disappointed that I was unable to do so for the Twisted Fork. The website was under construction and the Facebook page only offered a specialty menu. Come to find out, Jay writes his menus seasonally and sometimes it changes even more often than that based on what local protein, produce, and dairy he can source.

Jay explained that every item on the menu is locally sourced and that he personally knows his vendors. I admire this practice. I especially love chefs who are brave enough to pair unexpected ingredients–something I had heard the Twisted Fork is known for.

Driving by the strip mall where the Twisted Fork is located, you might assume it was a diner but you would be wrong. What the Twisted Fork lacks in location and first impressions, it makes up for in personality. A smile and a pig greeted us. Yes, a pig. This fully cooked sow was later served as a welcoming course to our group in the form of slow-cooked shredded pork tacos with jalapeño slaw and a side of truffle fries. It was not on the menu, but if they’re reading this, I hope they consider adding it. It was delicious.

Jay and Nancy, his wife and business partner, are playful and friendly. Nancy waited on our group with another server while Jay prepared our meals in the kitchen. Nancy told charming stories as she took our order. Meanwhile every now and then Jay would yell something to us through the window in the kitchen. It was a higher quality of entertainment than I expected on a Tuesday night.

For dinner, I ordered the Seared Scallops served on a parsnip puree topped with a bacon emulsion (made with bacon from BT’s Smokehouse in Sturbridge) and drizzled with a blood orange olive oil. WOW! The scallops were great but the standout component of the dish was the parsnip puree. The puree was velvety smooth and perfectly balanced. It really complimented the scallops and the blood orange olive oil, which gave the plate a little bit of tartness and a little bit of sweetness. There were a few others at the table that ordered same dish. We all cleaned our plates–just sayin’.

Service was a little long, because, as Jay explained, they have a rather small kitchen with three burners. Considering the level of quality and refinement, I thought the length of service was justified. Also, they have a full bar with a good selection of draft beers including Wormtown (bonus points) to enjoy while you wait.

Jay and Nancy kept us entertained with cute anecdotes and back-and-forth banter. Jay is loud and a little unpredictable while Nancy is more modest and even-toned. Together they make great partners.

The Twisted Fork is more than a meal; it’s an experience. It’s a great place to try out something new because you can trust that the dish will impress you. Plus, it’s just fun! The prices are very fair. My check was under $40 for fresh seafood, alcohol, and a entertainment. I would highly recommend going to the Twisted Fork.

Posted on

Eggplant Neapolitan from Twisted Fork Bistro

Eggplant Neapolitan from Twisted Fork Bistro in Cherry Valley, MA

I have been meaning to have dinner at the Twisted Fork for quite some time, but for whatever reason, I just hadn’t made it there.

Owner and Executive Chef Jay Powell is often mentioned when locals talk about Worcester’s best chefs. Since his huge personality usually comes up in that same conversation too, my expectations were quite high. With all the hype, I went in expecting greatness.

The Twisted Fork is located beyond Worcester’s city limits in a quiet town with an idyllic-sounding moniker: Cherry Valley. If you are not looking for it, you most definitely would drive right by it.

Inside the restaurant, there is an open dining room with casual decor and a few booths along the wall. That is pretty much where usual ends.

Before we were seated, Chef Jay engaged our group and treated us to some of his personal cooking philosophy. He explained how he uses locally-sourced ingredients whenever possible. He also described growing many more ingredients in his garden. Then he explained the meticulous preparation and planning that goes into creating the dishes featured on his menu.

To start our dining experience, Chef Jay treated us all to an amazing pork taco. This freshly roasted full pig was on display as we walked into the restaurant. The tender, smoky pork was paired with a spicy cole slaw. And, at every table, there was an order of freshly made bread set next to sweet olive oil and garlic.

For an appetizer, we ordered the Sriracha Shrimp, which was a huge portion of plump fresh shrimp perfectly prepared in a spicy Sriracha sauce with homemade blue cheese dipping sauce on the side. The blue cheese provided just the right amount of coolness to balance the spicy dish.

I began my meal with a Caesar Salad served with a tangy dressing in a handmade Parmesan bowl. During his intro, Chef Jay described that as the salad is being made each Parmesan bowl is made-to-order, a process that he has perfected over time.

Reviewing the menu, I was torn since so many items looked great. I finally decided on the Neapolitan Eggplant Parmigiana. The tender eggplant slices were stacked high and topped with fresh mozzarella, Parmesan cheese, and a rich, flavorful red sauce. Sweet olive oil, roasted garlic and spicy flavors were prevalent in each bite. The dish was a excellent.

Chef Jay’s wife Nancy provided all the service we needed. She easily handled our large, excited table. She was very helpful at explaining menu options, offering excellent wine pairing suggestions, and bringing a great smile and comfortable feeling to the evening.

Chef Jay and his entire team left nothing to chance. By sharing his process, I was able to fully appreciate the meal. Growing his own ingredients, sourcing other ingredients, and paying meticulous attention to detail as each meal is handcrafted and prepared shows how much Chef Jay loves his job. There is no way to describe my experience other than to say, “Bravo!”