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Arctic Char from The Urban

Arctic Char from The Urban on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

Arctic Char from The Urban on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

Upon entering the Urban, I thought the ambiance was industrial combined with a retro feeling. A modern looking bar took up residence near the front door. Behind the bar was a very large screen playing an old black and white movie. A friendly server took us to our table to be seated. I had been anxiously awaiting my chance to visit this restaurant. I had heard so many positive and good things from my friends that I was very excited to indulge and enjoy some amazing food unfortunately; the night was not all I had hoped it would be.

Our server came around asking for drink orders and I selected the Petit Syrah from their generous wine menu. When I received my wine in one of those ultra-modern “No Stem” wine glasses my first thought was different and very nice, I then saw how little wine it held and was very disappointed. I estimated half of a normal pour; it was was disheartening and I did not order another glass. I have to reiterate that I cannot say I have ever really noticed the lack in my wine glass before but in this the quantity or should I say lack of was something to be noticed.

This week in Worcester they are celebrating “Restaurant Week” it is where restaurants offer a smaller pre fixed menu that usually includes an appetizer, salad or soup, a Main course and a dessert. Thinking this would give me a nice sampling of the menu I chose do to this for $23.15, which I think, is a great deal.

From the Pre fixed Restaurant week menu I ordered to start with the Country Duck Pate’ – It came with two small slices of pate and a few thinly sliced toasted bread, accompanied with brandied cherry, pistachios and raisins. I thought it was very nice if a little small in quantity when it came to the amount of pate’ on my plate. For my main course I ordered the Arctic Char which is a very light flaky white fish, it came seared on a small bed or lentils. I truly loved the taste of everything. The lentils were amazing, however there was so little of them that I barely got a few forkfuls and sadly they were gone. The Arctic Char was cooked to perfection and was delicious, but a small portion; again the theme here very little food and my belly was not happy with me. For a main meal with no sides to speak of, I would expect a larger serving of fish. I ended the night with the Carrot cake, which turned out again to be delightful. It was a deconstructed carrot cake and came with a small scoop of cream cheese gelato, small portion again but not such a problem as it is dessert.

I really dislike giving a negative review for restaurants and this was very difficult for me to do with this place, after having heard so many positive things about it. Leaving The Urban last night after having a 3-course meal with the addition of a shared appetizer on the table, I am very sad to report that I left hungry. In my eyes, this is the worst thing that could happen after leaving a restaurant. I would not recommend this restaurant to anyone and quite honestly, I am not interested in going back. In closing, the portions were ridiculously small, the service was slow. The only positive thing I can say for this place is that the food was truly creative and delightful.

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The Art of Love in Worcester: Trust The Chefs

The Small Cowper Madonna by Raphael on display at the Worcester Art Museum

Gazing at Raphael’s The Small Cowper Madonna currently on exhibit at the Worcester Art Museum (through September 27th) the simile between art and food is glaring: an artist uses brush strokes like a chef uses ingredients, both resulting in a work of art.

Not everyone likes certain types of food—I, for one, used to carefully remove even the smallest chopped onion from my dish. Similarly, not everyone likes certain types of art—I, for one, don’t understand something that could be “re-created by chance.” But, for all intents and purposes, the masters behind their craft have a vision and passion in what they are creating. Often inspired by experience, a true chef will see their dish from creation through consumption, but the biggest challenge a chef faces is consistency. Unlike a classical painter who spends years creating and refining a masterpiece, a chef has a finite time to create and re-create a dish, consistently. And every time the dish is served, it starts an endless cycle: between those who are trying the dish for the first time and those who have returned to relive their first experience.

Alex Gjonca in the kitchen of Nuovo Restaurant on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MAAs a frequent diner in Worcester, I enjoy eating as much as I enjoy wandering the halls of WAM. The restaurant scene in the city has evolved. Chefs truly are artists not only creating signature dishes that are unique to their restaurant, but consistently reproducing the dining experience time after time. Whether a restaurant like Nuovo where Chef Gjonca painstakingly fuses classic ingredients with contemporary flavors, Armsby Abbey’s Chef Evangelous who constantly “sketches and paints” a new menu every single week for his “collectors,” Chef Bowser who has introduced a new category at The Urban that, arguably, our city hasn’t seen yet, or newly hired Chef Rogers who is taking the successful dishes from Bocado and Mezcal and evolving them in a manner that “favorites” won’t be lost. Chefs aren’t just throwing ingredients from a pan onto a dish; they are creating art.

The next time that you dine out, let the chef choose his or her favorite dish—and don’t ask them to “hold the onions.” Like art, you may not like a certain piece, but when you do, you may be turned onto a world previously unknown. That’s the art of love in Worcester.

POACHED HALIBUT from The Urban on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester
POACHED HALIBUT from The Urban on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester (Source The Urban)