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“Dining Alfresco” Trend Transforms the Worcester Restaurant Scene

Outdoor dining at Ceres Bistro

The patio at Via on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MAUpscale watering holes, small cafés, grills and everything in between…there seems to be no end to the growing variety of drinking and dining venues in today’s Worcester restaurant scene.

Take, for example, Sweet: this Shrewsbury Street restaurant has focused complimenting its dinner and desserts menu with its hand-selected, small-batch bourbons and whiskeys made by U.S.-based craft distillery—you’ll find its bar is devoid of most major commercial spirits.

But, how are restauranteurs distinguishing themselves and building their following to a new level? Not just by combining food and drink, but also focusing on ambiance to deliver uniquely branded dining experiences.

“It’s all about creating the kind of environment that people are not only drawn to, but will talk about and continue to come back to visit,” said Megan Nickerson of Ceres Bistro.

Craving a more modern outdoor ambiance? Try Ceres Bistro at the Beechwood Hotel. Its Pavilion is a tranquil green space for city diners, offering casual seating for more than 100 and a full bar; in summer, guests are treated to live music on Thursday nights. (Photo by Erb Photo)
Craving a more modern outdoor ambiance? Try Ceres Bistro at the Beechwood Hotel. Its Pavilion is a tranquil green space for city diners, offering casual seating for more than 100 and a full bar; in summer, guests are treated to live music on Thursday nights. (Photo by Erb Photo)

Like many area establishments, Ceres brings their best offerings outside this time of year, offering al fresco dining. And brisk business proves Ceres and many other establishments are doing the outdoor dining experience right.

Jenny Poulin, Bar Manager for La Scala, says that outdoor dining lightens the mood for patrons and staff alike. “Being outdoors just makes dining more casual, more fun. We stay open a little later, and people let loose a bit more than they would if seated inside.”

“It used to be that summers in Worcester were the hardest time of year. Everyone was away and our share of the patron pie just got smaller as the days got warmer. Now that we have so many independent restaurants offering outdoor dining along our street, we’ve created a lively, fun dining ‘scene.’ People really want to be here!” said Paul Barber of The Flying Rhino, which boasts casual, beach-themed patio seating.

Barber’s not exaggerating: take a quick drive down Shrewsbury Street on a warm summer night and you’ll see lines of people waiting to see and be seen at outdoor tables. “And it’s not just the evening hours — outdoor seating has given us an all-new group of patrons: the mid-afternoon, ‘let’s cut out of work early for a drink or early dinner’ set,” said Barber.

WorcesterScene’s 15 Summer Picks for Dining Alfresco this Summer:

Working with the city

It used to be enough for a restaurant that wanted to serve patrons alfresco to put a few patio tables outside on the sidewalk and call it a day. Today, restaurants are committing to making dramatic changes to please their patrons and capitalize on the outdoor dining opportunity: they’re sacrificing parking, adding pergolas, lighting, climate control, water features and more. Licensing requirements have at times slowed the process of renovations like this, but it’s clear that the Licensing Office of the City of Worcester is committed to working with members of the hospitality community. Their goal: to ensure that alfresco dining activities are carried out in a way which is in tune with a healthy, safe and comfortable environment for patrons and other pedestrians.

“They’ve worked closely with us over the past few years and there has been progress. “For example, early on we petitioned them to extend hours of operation in the summer and won,” said Barber. “And then last year, we saw 75 degree weather in March. We put tables on sidewalk and were promptly asked to put them away. We worked with the commission, and now restaurants throughout the city can put out tables as soon as it is safe to do so. So now we have the potential for a three-season sales boost instead of just during the summer months.” There is one big downside to dining alfresco, joked Barber. “It’s the lines! You’ve got to be prepared to wait on a nice night. Outdoor tables go quickly!”

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Wines For Your Summer BBQ

Pairing white with BBQWhen the weather is hot and there’s barbecue on the grill, no one can deny that an ice cold beer is exactly what you want. However, anyone that has properly paired a beer with rich, smoky flavorful barbeque can attest to the fact that that is just too much weight. You are not pairing a Bud Light or Corona with BBQ. Are these refreshing on the beach for day-drinking? Absolutely. (Within legal parameters, of course.) Although, when it comes to pairing a beverage with food, you have to consider many factors that essentially match the two. Ideally, you are pairing a heavier beer that can match the weight, volume and texture of your meal. And usually your stomach has room for one of these, maybe two, before you feel like taking a nap and calling it a day. And who wants to miss the rest of the party? So, as the forever advocate of wine as the ideal pairing for food, I will guide you to the perfect wine pairings with BBQ. Although I’m specifically tailoring these pairings to BBQ, the same principles apply to all food and wine pairings.

Pairing red with BBQ.Weight. Volume. Texture. These measurements or characteristics are usually found in physics and textiles, but, honestly, wine is so much more fun. Weight: how heavy is the dish? It is light and refreshing or heavy and filling? Whatever it is, you will want to match an equally weighty wine with it. Logic may suggest that you balance a heavy dish with a light wine to balance it out. Generally speaking, you can’t do this. One will overpower the other. Although there are always exceptions to any rule, this is where volume comes in. Volume: how loud is the dish? How bold are the flavors and spices? Barbeque is bold, and as beautiful as a Pinot Noir from Burgundy can be, it is simply not loud enough for the grill, not if you are grilling properly. A wine should not overpower a wine, and food should not overpower a wine. The last aspect, which may not be as vital as weight and volume in a dish, is the texture. Texture: how does it feel? Flavor and body only mean so much if the texture of the food matches the texture of the wine. As far as barbequed foods go, you want something rich and silky to wash it all down with and you want it to make you want another glass. Texture in wine is crucial because you want it to match the richness of the foods you’re eating, while being refreshing enough to keep drinking.

Although one can go on and on about the fundamentals of pairing food with wine, these elements cover the basics. As part of my “market research,” I tried delicious local BBQ with some of my favorite wines. I was able to taste through some key characteristics that were crucial to a solid barbeque pairing. I’m sorry Sauvignon Blanc, I love you, but this just isn’t going to work out this time. The best characteristics in wine that enhanced my dining experience were: fruit-fowardness, not too much acidity, and neutral tannins in red wine. It’s actually very interesting because traditionally subtle fruit and high acid are what make wines food-friendly. But we are talking about American food, and ‘Murica doesn’t like rules.

Now that there is an understanding of how and why, I will suggest the top 3 whites and top 3 reds for your BBQ. Interestingly enough, my two runners up for the whites are European varietals in a new world expression. Albariño and Pinot Gris from Oregon are a perfect pairing, especially with the Mustard BBQ sauce. They both have the balanced acidity for the mustard component often found in barbecue foods, but the richness in fruit to stand up to the weight and volume as well. The best white wine for BBQ is Chenin Blanc, specifically from South Africa. Chenin Blanc has the body to stand up to richer dishes like Mac n’ Cheese, potato salad and all meats. It even pairs with baked beans surprisingly. Chenins have the full body of Chardonnay, but generally a higher acidity and not the same oak treatment, so they are naturally more food-friendly. The best part about the BBQ food-friendliness is how great Chenin Blanc is with spicy food. They don’t dull heat, but they do soften and round it out. An honorable mention is rosé. It doesn’t necessarily enhance BBQ, but it doesn’t hurt it either. Rosé: the eternal people-pleaser. (It is definitely a middle child.) As far as reds go, there are few surprises there. You want bold fruit, toned down tannins, and rich body. Ultimately, the three best were Australian Shiraz, Cotes-du-Rhone and Petite Sirah. If you want to enhance spice, go for the Cotes-du-Rhone. If you want to soften the spice and round out the texture, drink a California Petite Sirah.

What makes these pairings so interesting is that these are not traditionally food-friendly wines, as mentioned before. Barbeque is a very American style of cuisine which allows American wines to shine. There is no better time to celebrate this exquisite pairing than now. Put that beer down, and enjoy your BBQ with some wine today.

Katie Kelly, showing off some options for pairing wine with your summer BBQ.