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February’s Food News Wrap Up

Decorative elements of simjang on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

New culinary spaces are experiencing activation throughout the region by major players from Worcester’s burgeoning food scene. Let’s start with simjang, the latest brainchild of deadhorse hill’s accomplished team. A friends and family opening on Monday revealed the 1928 Buick dealership under fresh minesweeper lights in true art deco fashion. The menu included Korean inspired easy-to-order, quickly prepared dishes as well as large format items for sharing. A chain link fence lay in wait of the March 1st opening. We’re getting our love locks ready and you should to; simjang promises a torrid Worcester romance at 72 Shrewsbury Street.

Executive Chef Jared Forman standing behind the raw bar display at simjang on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA (Erb Photo for Mass Foodies)
Executive Chef Jared Forman standing behind the raw bar display at simjang on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA (Erb Photo for Mass Foodies)

Armsby Abbey countered simjang’s locks with keys of their own. A Facebook post from the owners picturing a set of keys indicated that licenses had been approved and a lease signed on Main Street in Hudson—called Cónico. The announcement of Armsby’s second restaurant came on the heels of their 8th consecutive ‘Great American Beer Bars’ honor as the Best Beer Bar in Massachusetts by CraftBeer.com. Downtown Hudson has experienced tremendous economic growth in the last few years with the arrival of tastemakers like Rail Trail Flatbread Co., New City Microcreamery, Less Than Greater Than, Medusa Brewing Company, and Amy Lynn Chase’s retail destination, The Haberdash.

Armsby Abbey might have its sights set on Hudson, but their flagship establishment will continue to shine as Main Street in Worcester makes its transformation into a densely populated neighborhood. A walkable, vibrant vision is afoot downtown on account of new development and Mark Gallant of The Dogfather knows it. Gallant is establishing “Food Truck Row,” a destination which will host a minimum of five vendors during lunch every Monday through Saturday, with the capacity for up to ten trucks. General attendance and parking will be free beginning on March 5th in the municipal parking lot at 40 Highland Street, directly behind the Worcester Memorial Auditorium. Beyond simply satisfying our appetites, food trucks have major spatial benefits which impact our ability to activate blank territories throughout the city. Gallant is organizing the first official Food Truck Throw Down, scheduled for May 5th from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. at Green Hill Park. Mass Foodies’ own Giselle Rivera-Flores will serve as a judge. Check out her #SundayFunday series for a taste of her sensibilities. This month, she highlighted local favorites: The Hangover Pub, El Patron, and Carl’s Oxford Diner.

Local natural food stores and ethnic markets have persevered in the wake of last month’s Whole Foods. Living Earth has evolved with an increase in prepared foods as well as added cafe seating. Ed Hyder’s Mediterranean Marketplace is busier than ever, despite the saddening blow of Ed Hyder’s recent passing on February 5th. Ed Hyder’s Mediterranean Marketplace continues to be a true family business, invigorated by the dedication of the Hyder children. Ed Hyder will be remembered in our neighborhoods, kitchens, and hearts.

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Simjang’s Chef Mike Wenc Makes his Worcester Debut

This week, deadhorse hill’s little sister, simjang, finally made her debut under the watchful eyes of chef de cuisine Mike Wenc. Wenc has worked at a number of Boston’s top restaurants including Ribelle, Shepard, and Cafe du Pays. Wenc met executive chef Jared Forman six years ago at his very first cooking job – a stint at Strip T’s in Watertown.

Bachan including deviled eggs, yuzu mayo potato salad, sweet and sour fish, cucumber name, kimchi, and yellow pickled daikon.

At Worcester’s Best Chef on Sunday, Wenc told Mass Foodies, “Ever since he [Forman] opened deadhorse, he wanted me to come work for him, and it never worked out. But, finally, I was in between jobs and I came out here.” Worcester cast its spell on Wenc in no time.

The team of Wenc and Forman prepared a dish called “Korea Town in a Bite” for the occasion, a slow roasted pork belly bossam wrapped in mustard greens and served with kimchi and simjang mayo, then finished with scallions.

“We open March 1st on Shrewsbury Street in the old Sweet spot. We’re all really excited about it,” Wenc shared. The anticipated opening falls just three days after the closing ceremonies of the Winter Olympic Games in South Korea. The new concept is described as American-Korean and marks the second Worcester project for the leadership team of chef Forman, bar director Sean Woods, wine director Julia Auger, and co-owner Albert LaValley. “Simjang” is the Korean word for heart.

Fried Chicken

On Tuesday, curious customers flocked to deadhorse hill for the first taste of simjang’s menu at a preview event that drew an impressive crowd. Manager Ellen Benson reported that over 100 reservations had been taken for the preview, as of Monday evening.

The first look included bachan such as deviled eggs, yuzu mayo potato salad, cucumber namul, kimchi, yellow pickled daikon, and tiny pan-fried sweet and sour fish. The galibi, scallop crudo, offered bright punchy bites of crunchy soy, radish, and wintermelon in a chilly yuzu broth. The saelleodeu, Korean Caesar salad, combined mustard greens, tofu garlic dressing, gochutons, cured egg, and ultra crispy fish. Heartier plates included tteokbokki, sautéed rice cakes, with braised lamb shoulder, black garlic, and chunjang – salty black bean sauce. Derrick Walters, the mastermind behind deadhorse hill’s southern fried chicken thighs, was on hand in the dining room to try simjang’s take on fried chicken, served with a choice of miso soy roasted garlic, spicy gochujang, or salt and pepper.

Tteokbokki – sauteer rice cakes with braised lamb shoulder, black garlic, and chunjang.

Guests will find Woods behind the bar during the launch of the new restaurant. At Tuesday’s event, he provided a sneak peek at his vision for simjang’s cocktails. Offerings included his version of the Pain Killer and the Mai Tai alongside original creations like the Raft of Dead Monkeys and the Pineapple Expresso. The latter was made with tiki bitters, Parlor Coffee redux, lime juice, pineapple syrup, and Woods’ signature r(h)um blend. The striking cocktail was built in a large tiki glass with crushed ice, a swizzle straw, and a pineapple leaf garnish. Guests also enjoyed a selection of sake. Favorites included the junmai daiginjo & daiginjo, which emitted delicate notes of jasmine and the junmai ginjo & ginjo with aromas of fresh cut grass. 

soju bomb!

The team hopes simjang can be a “gateway” for Worcester’s epicurean scene. If Tuesday’s turn out is any indication, they’re already well on their way.