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The Chameleon’s Rub and Pull, a BBQ Burger

The Chameleon's Rub and Pull BBQ Burger.

When I found out that a new restaurant was opening up in the same location as the old Mezcal/The Fix/The Usual, I was less excited than I was skeptical. Given the circumstances under which the previous restaurant closed, I was worried future customers might be deterred from trying something new in the same space. It is worth noting that both Mezcal and The Fix were wildly successful at 166 Shrewsbury Street. So successful in fact, that they needed to uproot to larger venues to handle the demand from customers – not a bad problem to have in the restaurant business. Now, the space is occupied by The Chameleon.

As noted on the The Chameleon’s website, it’s a restaurant that isn’t so much about the reptile itself, but what it represents. The food scene is all about being able to change and adapt to your environment. By being able to constantly adapt to your surroundings, you can evolve and inevitably survive in an industry that is ever-changing.

The menu and concept of The Chameleon will change on the first day of each new season to keep things new, exciting, and fresh. Since it opened in June, the concept has centered on BBQ. There is a lack of true BBQ places in Worcester and the surrounding areas, with the stellar exceptions of BT’s and Firefly’s. The Chameleon has found a nice niche (at least, for the next three months or so.) After perusing the menu, right off the bat, I noticed that I could’ve easily ordered a dozen items and fully engulfed myself in BBQ. However, I knew I had come for one thing, and that was a great burger.

I was immediately drawn to the Rub and Pull Burger ($13) for a few reasons that I will touch on shortly. This burger was topped with brisket, BBQ sauce, stout onion jam, smoked Gouda and served on a bulky roll. The first thing that drew me to the Rub and Pull was the promise of brisket. If I could have my choice of a cut of BBQ, I would choose brisket seven days a week and twice on Sunday. There’s something about the tenderness, the smokiness, and richness that always brings me back. The second thing that attracted me to this dish was the smoked Gouda, one of my personal favorite cheeses. It’s a hard cheese that takes a bit longer to melt compared to most other burger-bound cheeses and delivers an ever-so-slightly smokiness to whatever you’re pairing it with, whether it’s beer, fruits, nuts, chocolate or in this case, BBQ.

The burger was slightly overcooked but was instantly rescued by the juicy brisket piled on top. The brisket had a beautiful bark on it from hours of cooking and had just enough fat content to bind with the burger patty. The stout onion jam was definitely at the forefront of my palate. The BBQ sauce was sweet and smoky and helped blend all the flavors together. We were actually presented with a six-pack of house-made BBQ sauces to try on the side as well including a pineapple mango BBQ, Carolina and spicy. The bun helped hold everything in place. There is something about a reliable bulky roll when it comes to burgers and sandwiches in general that you just can’t go wrong with. On the side, there sat a mound of waffle fries, cooked to a crispy, light brown color and tender on the inside. Pair those with the house BBQ sauces and you have yourself a match made in waffle fry heaven.

While we finished up our meal, we sat admiring the pop of the bright green chameleon wallpaper. I was filled with hopeful optimism for The Chameleon. I felt as though they could use their new space to create a great brand and put out a product as unique and ever-changing as Worcester itself. The BBQ was a great foundation to start with, given the summer months. If there’s one strong concept that Worcester is missing, it is authentic BBQ. I was also excited to come back and try some of the other enticing offerings before Fall. In Autumn, The Chameleon will switch to German cuisine. If you have a burger suggestion for next month, give me a shout at @EDioufUC5 and you might see your favorite burger featured.

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It’s BitterSweet on Shrewsbury Street As Sweet Kitchen & Bar Plans to Close Its Doors

Sweet Kitchen and Bar on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

Alina Eisenhauer, who has been dazzling Worcester with cupcakes and more at Sweet Kitchen & Bar on Shrewsbury Street, has decided with her partners to close the restaurant when the lease expires this month. The last dinner service will be Saturday, July 22 and the last brunch Sunday, July 23.

“This is an end but a new beginning too,” said Eisenhauer. “My partners and I wanted to go in different directions, and I wish them nothing but luck. I love this space. We were successful in it despite the pressures of the restaurant business. I know they will come up with something great and worthy of it just like we did when we moved Sweet here in 2013.”

Eisenhauer, who opened the original Sweet on the opposite end of Shrewsbury Street in 2008, is most disappointed she will not have more time to say goodbye and help her team. When the decision was made, she said, her biggest concern was for others: “No one should worry about me. I’ll be fine. My concern is for my staff, my guests, and the people who have events and orders with us for after we close.”

On those fronts, Eisenhauer has already made giant strides. She is using all her deep connections and relationships in the Worcester food and restaurant community and beyond. All the events and orders are being handled, and she is placing her staff as quickly as she can, “in the right job worthy of his or her talent . . . the best job, not just a job.”

For her customers, Eisenhauer says she would have “loved to take two months for a long celebration including a big farewell party (or two) but the reality is we have two weeks. So we are going to make it fun. We’re going to put everyone’s favorite stuff on the menu. Stuff people have asked for and cupcakes and dishes they request. My staff is amazing. We are going to do all we can!”

Plus, Alina assures us we’ll still be able to have our Sweet cupcakes and eat them too. The women who do the baking for Alina will be taking her recipes to a new location soon, which Alina will make sure to post about on her social media feeds, so keep checking back.

As for Alina? She built Sweet on her reputation and word of mouth, and when she is ready for something new, she won’t be shy about telling us. But for now she sees a silver lining:

“I’m taking a break and spending time with my family, which I haven’t been able to do for 10 years. Working 100 hours a week and regretting not spending time with them? My son is in high school. I’d like to be able to spend time with him and be at all of his games and events while he is still under my roof. I’ll do a little consulting, private events, and work on my YouTube channel and cookbook for now. But then there are so many more options now then when I started in this business, so I am going to take my time and explore them.”