Despite it being my favorite food, despite seeing it on a menu in the dead of winter, I had decided against lobster twice in the week leading up to our February Foodies meeting. I have no rational explanation as to why, but it may have been a fear that the elusive winter lobster would be previously frozen and/or poorly cooked. But then I saw it as the first entree at The Urban Kitchen + Bar. Just read the description: roasted lobster tail + butter poached claws, lobster bisque, potato & parsnip puree, braised fennel, chervil. Surely this would be no frozen boiled winter abomination.
After hearing the portions would be small, I decided to start with the clam chowder, which in and of itself is a rare occurrence. Clam chowder is so heavy! Definitely not a mere starter to a meal. The Urban’s chowder is different, light and smooth with exceptional flavors. It is titled “salsify clam chowder” and includes manilla clams, bacon, thyme, cream, and housemade oyster crackers. Fun fact: salsify is a root vegetable and not a cooking technique. This “chowder” with housemade oyster crackers is the best liquid food I have ever eaten. I ended up scraping the bowl with bread and only then was restrained from licking the bowl by the fancy ambiance and linen napkins.
Then I was a bit disappointed. Yes, we were a large group, but it was a long time before the entrees arrived. About an hour and I was starving! I am all for small portions with strong, complex flavors, but they need to follow each other quickly. I was a bit shocked to see one tiny claw, when the menu says “claws,” and a very tiny split lobster tail that would not even qualify as a chicken lobster. But I must say, that potato and parsnip puree was heavenly. A light, foamy texture, it was smooth and rich and came with more than enough to drag all the lobster bites through. The fennel was braised very well and had the texture of caramelized onions. The dish was very good, but I was definitely still hungry afterwards.
I would recommend that instead of planning for an appetizer and entree, you go for multiple courses. An appetizer, followed by a pasta, then mains, then dessert. Yes, this method will cost nearly $100 a person, and more if you have drinks, but the dinner experience will be worth it. After all, I didn’t even know salsify was a food and parsnips have never touched my mouth before, but I would eat that soup and mains all day.
