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Portugal: Old World Becomes New

A glass of Periquita Reserva from Portugal

José Maria da Fonseca Periquita Reserva with boardPortugal has always had a historical significance in the wine world, considering it is the birthplace of Port wine. With the waning popularity of fortified wines, we also saw a decline in Portugal’s perceived relevance, as other countries were further establishing themselves in the world of fine wine. Then new world countries were finding themselves as contenders in the wine industry, while Portugal was still making and exporting Port, but unable to do much more due to a poor economic state. Their potential must have been recognized, however, because the World Bank stepped in in the 1990’s to subsidize investment into Portugal’s wineries. Wineries were given grants to update vineyard equipment and invest in technologically advanced machinery inside the winery, allowing them to develop viticulture and vinification practices.

This opportunity paired with age old traditions and experience passed down through generations of winemaking, allowed for Portugal to boldly make its presence known in the market again, as an Old World country with New World innovation and creativity. This time they chose to focus on table wines, not Port. Portugal had always produced table wines with the same grapes they used for Port, however, now quality became a priority. The majority of wineries made a shift from cooperative driven and bulk wine production to estate properties bottling high quality boutique, often small production wines. The youngest generation of winemakers were participating in the best enology programs offered, and taking that education back home to the vineyards. Tradition and rapid advancement were cohesively paired to create a powerful resurgence for the Portuguese wine industry.

A glass of José Maria da Fonseca Periquita ReservaThe best part of this movement, is that Portugal was able to offer a unique product, their indigenous varietals. Portugal had been very much isolated from the rest of Europe, geographically and economically. Because of this, few varietals were brought in and planted, and hardly any varietals were taken out. The 250 indigenous varietals that have been harvested and blended for centuries are now responsible for the unique wines coming out of Portugal. The Portuguese have always blended and still find that this creates the most interesting wines, showcasing the best features of each varietal while enhancing the others at the same time. The most often seen single varietal wine is white Alvarinho from northwestern Vinho Verde and red Baga from coastal Bairrada. But most commonly, you will see a white blend comprised of some combination of Alvarinho, Arinto, Encruzado and Fernão Pires, often from Vinho Verde. These offer a remarkable balanced blend of citrus, stone fruit and tropical fruit notes, floral aromas and bright acidity with beautiful texture. Red varietals that you will most often see, deliberately blended, are Baga, Castelão, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira and Tinta Roriz. The most often seen reds come from Douro, the rugged rocky vineyards that lie closest to the Spanish border, along the steep slopes of the Douro River. These wines tend to be intense with concentrated black fruit notes and bold tannic structure, with notes of purple flowers and spice. A less popular region, but becoming well-known for balanced wines is Dão. This region is just southwest of Douro, but it surrounded by mountains which protect it from extreme climatic conditions. Dão experiences warm, sunny days, allowing grapes to ripen fully, but then it cools down rapidly, slowing down the ripening process at the end of the growing season, allowing grapes to develop character and fragrant aromas while retaining acidity. (This happens in the best regions for growing Pinot Noir, such as Willamette Valley and Burgundy when she feels like cooperating.) This can create incredibly complex, interesting, beautiful wines, and we are seeing some great things come out of Dão. Other wines to keep an eye out for are single varietal Encruzado, and wines from Bairrada, Lisboa and Tejo. Grapes that I have to mention simply because their names are so cool are Esgana Cão, “dog strangler”, (calm down, PETA, it’s just a name), Amor-não-me-deixes, “Love-don’t-leave-me” and Carrega Burros, which obviously means “Donkey Loader”.

There is so much that can be said in regards to the topic of Portugal and its wine history and current day relevance. Portugal has some of the largest cork forests and it is fascinating how they have developed a new system of harvesting cork to eliminate the threat of deforestation. Douro was the first government regulated wine region in the world, because Port production and exportation was so important during the age of Imperialism. The other majorly important fortified wine, Madeira, also comes from Portugal. Madeira is interesting in terms of production because it is the one wine that is produced by actually heating it. Traditionally, Madeira producers would heat these fortified wines in the sun under glass roofs. (Do not try this at home with your wine, trust me.) In addition to that, Thomas Jefferson and the founding fathers were rumored to have been drinking Madeira while writing the Declaration of Independence. There is so much exciting history and importance tied to Portugal and its contribution to the wine world. What may prove to be even more interesting is what Portugal will continue to offer in the future. José Maria da Fonseca Periquita Reserva

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Winter Reds to Beat Your Winter Blues

Big Reds: Wine To Warm The Winter Soul

Big Reds: Wine To Warm The Winter Soul

We are in the thick of another lovely New England winter, and there are two important questions on everyone’s mind: When is it going to be spring again? And what am I going to drink to warm up? Before all the know-it-alls point out that alcohol doesn’t technically warm you up, because it thins your blood and actually makes you more sensitive to the cold, etc. etc., I know. But there must be something psychologically rewarding about an adult beverage that warms your bones in freezing temperatures. Most hearty New Englanders I know choose whiskey as their liquid blanket of choice. However, a near and dear choice of mine is a big, bold red wine.

Big Reds: Wine To Warm The Winter SoulA bold, spicy red with concentrated rich dark fruit notes and velvety tannins is my drink of choice from December-March, year after year. I am a person driven by logic, and the thought of consuming a cold beverage in cold temperatures confuses me and bothers me a bit, to be honest. Structurally, big red wines are the best compliment to winter weather. First, you get to drink it at a little less than room temperature, which is perfect, because most of us warm our houses to 60-65 degrees which is basically like one huge wine cellar. Also, the regions that these big reds come from, tend to be sunny and hot, creating high alcohol along with those indulgent concentrated fruit notes. Alcohol may thin your blood, but the immediate warming flush to your face is a welcome sensation this time of year. It’s almost like you can feel the sun on your face…almost. Lastly, the hearty body pairs well with hearty winter dishes. Beef stew, pot roast, lamb chops and game meats all pair well with big reds. Together, they warm your body and fill your belly, keeping you sustained for the bitter cold.

If you are not already a seasonal drinker, changing your drink of choice to match the weather, maybe I have now convinced you to be. The next thing you need to know is what to look for at the wine shop. If you like powerful reds with a balance of earth and spice, my favorite regions are the Rhone Valley of France and Ribera del Duero in Spain, with an honorable mention to Portuguese wines. For less earth and more fruit concentration, look for an Aussie Shiraz, California Zinfandel and Malbec from Argentina. These wines should probably come with a toothbrush, but if red-wine-mouth doesn’t bother you, these winter reds will help alleviate your winter blues. A bonus is that most of these aforementioned wines are value-driven, allowing you to stock up and hibernate until its Rosé season again.