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The Art of Love in Worcester: Trust The Chefs

The Small Cowper Madonna by Raphael on display at the Worcester Art Museum

Gazing at Raphael’s The Small Cowper Madonna currently on exhibit at the Worcester Art Museum (through September 27th) the simile between art and food is glaring: an artist uses brush strokes like a chef uses ingredients, both resulting in a work of art.

Not everyone likes certain types of food—I, for one, used to carefully remove even the smallest chopped onion from my dish. Similarly, not everyone likes certain types of art—I, for one, don’t understand something that could be “re-created by chance.” But, for all intents and purposes, the masters behind their craft have a vision and passion in what they are creating. Often inspired by experience, a true chef will see their dish from creation through consumption, but the biggest challenge a chef faces is consistency. Unlike a classical painter who spends years creating and refining a masterpiece, a chef has a finite time to create and re-create a dish, consistently. And every time the dish is served, it starts an endless cycle: between those who are trying the dish for the first time and those who have returned to relive their first experience.

Alex Gjonca in the kitchen of Nuovo Restaurant on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MAAs a frequent diner in Worcester, I enjoy eating as much as I enjoy wandering the halls of WAM. The restaurant scene in the city has evolved. Chefs truly are artists not only creating signature dishes that are unique to their restaurant, but consistently reproducing the dining experience time after time. Whether a restaurant like Nuovo where Chef Gjonca painstakingly fuses classic ingredients with contemporary flavors, Armsby Abbey’s Chef Evangelous who constantly “sketches and paints” a new menu every single week for his “collectors,” Chef Bowser who has introduced a new category at The Urban that, arguably, our city hasn’t seen yet, or newly hired Chef Rogers who is taking the successful dishes from Bocado and Mezcal and evolving them in a manner that “favorites” won’t be lost. Chefs aren’t just throwing ingredients from a pan onto a dish; they are creating art.

The next time that you dine out, let the chef choose his or her favorite dish—and don’t ask them to “hold the onions.” Like art, you may not like a certain piece, but when you do, you may be turned onto a world previously unknown. That’s the art of love in Worcester.

POACHED HALIBUT from The Urban on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester
POACHED HALIBUT from The Urban on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester (Source The Urban)

 

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A Year in Review: Worcester is a Hungry City

Sweet's Main Bar at their new location on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA (Photo by Erb Photography)

 

For all intents and purposes, Worcester is a hungry city. We have seen the city grow in immeasurable ways through the past decade; cultural institutions including the Worcester Art Museum and Hanover Theatre for the Performing Arts, the educational institutions like Massachusetts College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences and Quinsigamond Community College, and businesses both large and small like Unum and Crompton Collective have seen the value and potential that Worcester has to offer. As a result, these companies have invested in expanding their footprints to include themselves in the fabric that holds Worcester’s community together.

A group dining at Chuan Shabu on Park Avenue in Worcester, MAEvidence of this vibrant vision for the future is most tangible in the hospitality scene. For the first time in recent memory, we are not only seeing dozens of restaurants opening (and, the true testament, staying in business), but are watching them leading the charge in the discussion of culinary excellence—on a national level. Everywhere you look: Armsby Abbey pioneered both the, then new to Worcester, “farm-to-table” and “slow food;” Niche Hospitality Group not only introduced the concept of tapas, but gourmet Spanish Tapas at Bocado Tapas Wine Bar (and then expanded it to Providence and Wellesley); Sweet calls Worcester home even after Chef Alina Eisenhauer was featured on the Food Network’s cooking show Chopped and Cupcake Wars and won Sweet Genius. Worcester is hungry.

Thick sliced whole wheat oat bread with butter and honey with an espresso at BirchTree Bread Company on Green Street in Worcester, MAThis year is no exception. The hospitality industry is one of the most volatile industries, affected more so by the environment around it than the talent within. But Worcester’s economy, community, and hunger has ensured that the success of the early 2000s is more “the first course” than a flash in the pan. In twelve short months, much has happened. Early this year, husband and wife duo, Alec Lopez and Sherri Sadowski, finally opened the long awaited Crust Artisan Bakeshop, bringing locally sourced ingredients and naturally leavened bread to Main Street. Breathing life into the quickly growing Canal District, BirchTree Bread Company offers a similar attention to detail baking style with a completely different cafe-style atmosphere. Also in the Canal District, we’ve seen a building that has been empty for years brought back to life by David Domenick in the form of Compass Tavern. On Shrewsbury Street, Niche Lavraki Mediterranean Sea Bass from Meze on Shrewsbury StreetHospitality Group, moved the original Mezcal Tequila Cantina into Más Mezcal at larger space in the heart of downtown while simultaneously created a new concept in its former space, as a restaurant focused on burgers called The Fix Burger Bar. Also on Shrewsbury Street, which was made known for its Italian style is now known for its diverse dining options, including Mezé Greek Tapas Bar & Grille where a taste of true Mediterranean flavors meets tapas style service. The Italian world also expanded on Shrewsbury Street when Rose-Ellen Padavano, growing off the success of the BYOB favorite Rosalina’s Kitchen, opened a new restaurant, Padavano’s Place. In other parts of Worcester, we see Red Pepper offering a Chinese culinary experience just a few short miles from craft brewery 3cross Brewing Company. And there is a lot more that opened in 2014.

Diners ordering at The Fix Burger Bar on Shrewsbury Street in WorcesterFor the first time in many years, it is evident that businesses, government, institutions, and individuals understand that they need to work together—it is no longer the wild west of monopolies; it’s community. Programs like the Worcester Cultural Coalition’s WOO Card and movements like Amy Lynn Chase’s #ShopWoo help hold the Worcester fabric together. Worcesterites may not have bucket loads more money than they did last year, but they are conscious about experience, quality, and worcester-centric ideas. This concept is not widely adapted by other cities, which is why Worcester’s reach goes beyond its seven hills. Worcester is a hungry city and it just started on its appetizer.

Hot and spicy at The Fix Burger Bar on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA