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Wines of Piedmont: An Italian Love Affair

Katie with the Damilano Lecinquevigne Barolo at the Citizen Wine Bar in Worcester

Katie with the Damilano Lecinquevigne Barolo at the Citizen Wine Bar in Worcester

Italian wines have often been a household favorite, held near and dear to the consumers that love drinking them.  Italians love to eat and they love to drink good wine with every meal.  They go hand in hand, and there is never one without the other.  So naturally, Italians make their wines to retain vibrant acidity, which is the key to pairing food and wine.  This relationship of food and wine is a way of life for them, and something they don’t take lightly.  This passion is expressed through winemaking excellence, creating some of the most exquisite wines in the world, some that rival even the finest Burgundies and Bordeauxs.

Damilano Lecinquevigne BaroloTuscany has received fame and widespread notoriety for their traditional age-worthy treasures, as well as their innovative wine-making styles presented in the form of Super Tuscans.  One region that is lesser known, but just as worthy of attention is Piedmont, located in the northwest corner of Italy, at the foot of the Alps.

Piedmont, literally translates to “foot of the mountain”, specifically the Alps and the Apennines.  There are also several rivers that run through this winegrowing region, which moderate the hot summer temperatures and also create a valley floor full of hillsides.  It is on these south-facing hillsides that all the vineyards are planted, because they provide good draining and ample sunlight.  Aside from the ideal climate for the native varietals that the region is known for, it is the passion of the Piemontese winemakers that makes these wines so impressive.  It’s very rare that the earnestness, honesty and integrity of a winemaker is so distinctly expressed in a wine, that you can actually taste it.  If tasting honesty in a wine seems like an absurd notion, you will have to just try one of the following.

As with all Italian winegrowing regions, there are many indigenous varietals in Piedmont.  However, the most important are Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, and Moscato.  Nebbiolo is the thin-skinned, high acid and high tannin grape that makes the national treasures, Barolo and Barbaresco.  Appropriately nicknamed “the king and queen of wine,” these wines are powerful and austere, but have a refined elegance, with notes of strawberry, chocolate, rose petal, tobacco, spice box and white truffle.  Barbera is not quite as powerful, but it is just as important, and its style can range from simple to serious.  It is medium-bodied, dark in color and very low tannin, creating a juicy wine with high acid, and notes of red and black cherry, cranberry, raspberry and spice.  Dolcetto is darker and more brooding with ripe black fruit notes, black pepper and a smokiness that goes well with its rich texture.  The last honorable mention is Moscato, the varietal used to make Moscato d’Asti, a frizzante or slightly sparkling wine, which is once again, the hot trend in the wine world.  Understandably so, it is just so delicious, with its peach and floral notes, natural sweetness, and enough racy acidity to balance that sweetness.

As mentioned before, these wines were made to drink with food.  Whether you are pairing a Barolo with hand-made meat ravioli in a delicate cream sauce, or having a glass of Barbera with your favorite brick-oven pizza, you are in for an unparalleled food and wine experience.  Italians believe that good food matched with good wine are a necessity and they must be shared with good company.  We share the same philosophy at The Citizen, and want to invite you to indulge in the fine, yet simple things in life. It will certainly be an affair to remember.

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Orange Wine… Not Your Mother’s Pinot Grigio

This article was contributed by Katie Kelly, the Wine Director of The Citizen Wine Bar in Exchange Place in Worcester.

About two months ago, a server was asked for orange wine by a guest at our wine bar.  It was the first time I had heard of this, and I thought for sure the guest was mistaken and must be thinking of rosé, which can have a salmon hue, which I suppose could be considered orange.  Little did I know, that this is actually a fast-growing trend in the wine industry, and technically the opposite of rosé.  Rosé is made from red grapes that are macerated less time than normal, so that less color and intensity of flavor is extracted from the skins of the grape.  Orange wine is made from white grapes that actually see time on the skins, which is not normal for white wine, in order to increase color and intensity of flavor.  Maceration time can range from 24 hours to 30 days, creating a vast contrast in style.

After learning about this winemaking technique, I needed to get my hands on this wine.  Social media actually played an important role in my search.  One Facebook post reaching out to my sommelier friends, and I now had several reference points to research.  Orange wine is actually not a new trend, it is a product of an old-fashioned winemaking technique originated in Slovenia and the northeastern region of Italy, Friuli.  It is commonly seen with the white varietals Pinot Grigio, Ribolla Gialla, and Grenache Blanc.  White wine was originally produced in this method because grape skins contain more natural antioxidants, which allow for natural wine preservation.  With the resistance to using sulfur dioxide in wine, and the eco-friendly wine movement, I can see this technique gaining popularity very quickly among winemakers.

After reaching out to my wine reps, asking all of them about orange wine, explaining exactly what it is, and begging them to hunt one down, I finally got one.  One wine rep, who always seems to come through, brought me Tommasi’s “Il Grigio Ramato”, from northeastern Italy.  It is actually categorized as a rosé under their website, which can cause further confusion, I’m sure.  This orange wine did not disappoint.  It was truly unlike anything I’ve ever had before.  Not because it was so incredibly complex and serious, and would be considered one of the greatest wines of all time.  It was just so delicious, but so unusual at the same time.  There were bright, juicy notes of Clementine and candied lemon, a floral bouquet of jasmine and orange blossom, and a clean bitter almond finish.  Every flavor is so pronounced and in your face, it’s hard to believe it’s made from 100% Pinot Grigio grapes.  What’s really cool is that there are slight tannins, too, offering structure for all the round juiciness of the wine.  This is the perfect summer wine that could be just as thirst-quenching as homemade lemonade, but much, much better.  Even though it’s not summer, maybe this is the perfect wine to pretend that it is.

This rare, but highly sought after wine is found in trendy wine bars in metropolitan cities like Manhattan and LA.  And now, due to my slight obsession, it is sold at The Citizen Wine Bar in Worcester, MA.  If you are in the area, you have to come in and try it.  Even if it is not “your style” of wine, you will appreciate the concept and want to share your new discovery with your friends.