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Five Destinations Fit for a Knowledgeable Beer Pairing

House milled 4 Star Farms wharthog wheat & baby carrot pappardelle, roasted baby carrots, kale & green garlic, carrot top salsa, aged goat cheese, carrot crumb and Honest Weight Branch Bridge.

Armsby Abbey

Four Star Farms was built and passed down through fourteen generations of the L’Etoile family. You’ve likely enjoyed the fruits of their labor in brews from Wormtown, Medusa, Honest Weight, and Brick and Feather. Armsby Abbey’s menu changes daily, but Four Star Farms’ grains seem to have a consistent hold on the kitchen’s heartstrings. We are still dreaming of a baby carrot pappardelle they served last summer, made with juiced carrot and a house milled whole grain from Four Star Farms called Warthog Wheat. The dish was served with roasted baby carrots, kale and green garlic, carrot top salsa, aged goat cheese, and carrot crumb. At the time, Liz L’Etoile explained, “The warthog is used by lots of bakers for sourdough loaves and has a very strong wheat flavor; it can also be used in strong pastas.” Keep an eye on the rotating draft list for selections like ‘Kitten with a Whip’ – Brick and Feather’s Munich Helles Lager, or ‘Lightworks’ – Honest Weight’s American Blonde. Both brews are light and crushable, ideal for easy drinking.

BirchTree Bread Company

Honest Weight’s unfiltered pilsner, Prescott, is a bright, dry lager named for one of the four towns flooded in 1938 to form the Quabbin Reservoir. Honest Weight is located in the north Quabbin region of Massachusetts, and many of their beers honor the brewery’s storied surroundings. Pair Prescott with BirchTree’s grilled cheese, assembled from homemade country bread and Robinson Farm’s own tribute to Prescott – a nutty alpine artisanal cheese made from raw milk.

Civic Kitchen & Drink

Pair the Be Hoppy fish and chips with a variation on its namesake brew, Wormtown‘s African Queen Be Hoppy IPA. Wormtown’s Brand Ambassador Kyle Sherwood says, “Just like grapes, when you grow a hop, you get unique flavors. This hop from South Africa called African Queen has a really unique earthy, honey, tea flavor to it.” Wormtown has opted to pair the unique hops with local honey to accent the African Queen along with the beautifully executed citrus notes in their Be Hoppy. “One of our brew staff, Chris keeps bees for local honey. With increased production, we obtained additional honey from Boston Honey Company to secure enough local honey to brew this beer on a large scale,” Sherwood explained. Just remember: like goes with like.

Kummerspeck Restaurant

You will be hard pressed to find a better deal than fried chicken Mondays at Kummerspeck on Water Street. Half a bird “with fixins” is just $14, not to mention their $20 all you can eat rate. Mondays also mean $5 cans of Medusa including their mid-strength American IPA, Prosperous. Kummerspeck’s fried chicken is juicy on its own, so the sharp, clean bittering of Apollo hops makes a can of Medusa Prosperous the perfect pair. The addition of Zythos casts off aromas of grapefruit and pine from your glass along with high acidity to refresh the palate after each crunchy, caramelized bite. This combination is sure to bring you the balance and fulfilment that you need to start your week. (Or give it up, and order a rootbeer float. You deserve it.)

Rail Trail Flatbread Co.

One would be remiss to visit Rail Trail without ordering a flatbread pizza and a brew from Kent Falls. Bewilderment is Kent Falls’ Imperial Brett IPA; it pours the color of daffodils and finishes with pungent bursts of overripe fruit. Rail Trail’s Chicken Parm flatbread is made with a sweet crushed tomato base that stands up to the bitterness of any Imperial IPA. It’s topped with ditalini pasta, breaded chicken, basil and a garlic-Parmesan blend lovingly referred to as the house “funk.” Nothing measures up to the barnyard blast of Brettanomyces yeast like a pungent parmesan and no one knows that better than Rail Trail.

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BirchTree Bread Pulls its Honest Weight

BirchTree Bread Company’s recent dinner with Honest Weight Artisan Beer dug into the significance of storytelling through the union of food and drink.

Pairing is all about chemistry.

Sometimes, chemistry comes into play by showcasing discernable interactions or likenesses; other times it’s about creating a fluid narrative. In both instances, on Thursday evening, guests were utterly captivated. Attendees delighted in the spirited commentary of Chef Rob Fecteau, along with brewers Jay Sullivan and Sean Nolan.

Owner Avra Hoffman had set the stage for enchantment. Breathtaking floral arrangements adorned two unending tables that included stunning ceramic cabbage centerpieces made by Worcester Center for Crafts resident artist, Paige Ward.

The evening began with Honest Weight’s unfiltered pilsner, Prescott. This bright, dry lager was named for one of the four towns flooded in 1938 to form the Quabbin Reservoir. Honest Weight is located in the north Quabbin region of Massachusetts, and many of their beers honor the brewery’s storied surroundings. Prescott was paired with grilled cheese assembled from BirchTree’s country bread and Robinson Farm’s own tribute to Prescott – a nutty alpine artisanal cheese made from raw milk. Guests also enjoyed bratwurst and pretzel sliders, a collaboration by Fecteau and Matt Mahoney of neighboring establishment, Kummerspeck.

Next, came the buckwheat grisette, Gate 37, a nod to one of the Quabbin’s most remote access points. The brewers praised their grisette as “saison’s little sister,” a sessionable farmhouse style offering up hints of lemon and spice. Fecteau paired Gate 37 with crispy skin rainbow trout – native to the Quabbin – served over a buckwheat crepe with lemon-pepper burre blanc.

Tom Swamp Road paired with ramen noodles, soy-marinated pork belly, emulsified broth, mushrooms, scallion, and sesame.

The most fascinating pairing of the evening came during the fourth course with soy-marinated pork belly ramen and a multi grain stout called Tom Swamp Road. Fecteau credited BirchTree team member, Christopher Ly, for his unctuous emulsified broth made with collagen-rich chicken feet. He also applauded farmer Sean Maki of Christian Hill Farm for raising the heritage breed pork with dignity and respect. Sullivan echoed his admiration for Maki, explaining that the pork had been fed on spent grain from Honest Weight for close to a year – a fact that elevates the symbiosis of this pairing to astounding heights.

Sullivan likewise appreciated the unique pairing saying, “I find Tom Swamp Road rich enough but also dry enough that that it can balance a whole number of different dishes,” adding, “Happy pigs, happy brewers!” As if to illustrate this fact, the brewers toasted their glasses, initiating a “beer wave,” which to guests’ great amusement, traveled the length of the table.

As for the legend of Tom Swamp Road, the beer’s name comes from a local myth about an alleged counterfeiter who mysteriously disappeared in a local pond after a night of debauchery. Honest Weight knows there’s nothing like a ghost story to embrace local culture. (And, Mass Foodies knows there’s nothing like a swamp stout to brandish a broth’s great depths.)

BirchTree Bread Company’s beer dinner series will continue on April 5th with Stone Cow Brewery of Barre.