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Frutti di mare

Frutti di mare from Joey's in Worcester, MA

Frutti di mare from Joey's in Worcester, MA

I love going out to eat in the summer months! As refreshing as an outdoor BBQ can be, I also look forward to the steamy nights I don’t have to cook and heat up my kitchen!

That being said…summertime also equals bathing suit season. For me…that means making smart choices when it comes to ordering or lightening up some of my favorite dishes.

This July evening at Joey’s Bar and Grill meant following this summer rule. I decided on the a spicy seafood dish served in a garlic sauce over pasta. I swapped pasta for spinach and hoped for the best. The portion was of reasonable size with large chunks of flaky haddock, four tender scallops, and a generous handful of calamari and mussels. While the sauce was light and garlicky, the flavor was not full-bodied and lacked complexity. The spinach, while healthy and full of vitamins, did not adequately replace the pasta and were quite bitter. Now, don’t get me wrong, I devoured every morsel on my plate. It took every fiber in my being to resist the urge to mop the leftover sauce with the freshly baked, homemade frocaccia bread.

All in all, the dish, while satisfactory, fell short of the high expectations I have of Joey’s food from consistent luck every past visit. However, I am at fault for this disappointing meal. I blame it on making a poor swap to look better in a bathing suit.

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Calamari and Orrachetti with broccoli rabe, sausage, and chilies

Grilled Calamari from Volturno on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

Grilled Calamari from Volturno on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

Volturno is most definitely one of my new favorite restaurants in Worcester. I was enticed first by its attractive location, renovated interior, historical “Buick” charm and over my last 5 visits…the food. On this gorgeous spring evening out with the Worcester Foodies, I had convinced myself to order something other than pizza. This was a difficult decision as my love affair with the pistachio pizza has become a relationship I’ve been forced to share with my husband. My mind was made up before entering the restaurant…the half Misty Knoll chicken, butternut squash, foraged mushrooms, and brussel sprouts. The entree sounded deliciously organic and absolutely delightful. One can imagine my disappointment when the menu arrived and the waiter explained that they had switched over to their “Spring” menu. Frantically, I perused the updated menu, and made a surprisingly simple decision…I would begin with the grilled calamari over hummus and have the orrachetti with broccoli rabe, sausage, and chilies.

The appetizer arrived and a new affair commenced almost immediately. The heaping portion of calamari was grilled and drizzled with olive oil and bright lemon juice over a mound of freshly mashed chick peas. It was love at first bite! The calamari was cooked to perfection…not chewy with a slightly charred flavor from the grill. The fragrant lemon and olive oil added a fresh dressing to the dish which was not overwhelming or heavy. I shared approximately two bites with my husband and devoured the rest on my own.

Orrachetti with broccoli rabe, sausage, and chilies from Volturno on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

My pasta arrived shortly thereafter and was gigantic. Clearly this was going to be a gluttonous evening when my eyes were larger than my stomach. I dug into the al dente pasta with vigor and my taste buds were met first with the bitterness of the broccolli rabe, then the distinct fennel taste from the sausage, and finally the spicy bite of the chilies. All three flavors melded together like a beautiful symphony. The grated cheese on top added a welcomed creaminess. Having already consumed a hefty appetizer, I cold not finish this dish, however, my fellow foodies devoured what was left practically licking the plate clean, all in agreement — the dish was a culinary masterpiece!

I look forward to continuing my love affair with Volturno and will explore the menu which has yet to disappoint! -AV