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A Toast to Toast: Why This Health Trend is Here to Stay

The avocado toast from STEAM Energy Cafe at the Worcester Ice Rink (STEAM)
Country toast with Vermont Cabot butter and housemade raspberry jam (BirchTree Bread Company)
Country toast with Vermont Cabot butter and housemade raspberry jam (BirchTree Bread Company)

What comes to mind when you see the word “toast” on a menu? Five years ago I would have said a piece of white bread with butter (and maybe jam) on the peripheries of a classic breakfast meal. Today, toast is its own entity and it’s something I’m constantly on the lookout for. A simple piece of thickly sliced and toasted bread becomes a blank canvas for all of the toppings and aesthetics that make up an artisanal dish, and the options are endless.

Although toast might seem new, it’s been around for what seems like forever without gaining much attention, let alone trending on Instagram. A simple concept of adding avocado to tortillas dates back thousand of years to the Aztecs. The addition of avocado to toast occurred during the 1500’s with Spanish settlers in Mexico – at the time, avocados were accessible and inexpensive, which allowed for avocado toast to be a staple in Spanish culture. Unlike now, when avocado prices are rising and menu items at various restaurants tend to have an extra cost associated with adding avocado (or guacamole).

STEAM dresses up its Cashew Almond Toast with freshly sliced banana and strawberries. (STEAM)
STEAM dresses up its Cashew Almond Toast with freshly sliced banana and strawberries. (STEAM)

Toast has taken cafés and restaurants by storm not only for its tasty flavor combinations but also because of its nutrition spotlight. Starting with the base, common selections include freshly baked naturally leavened breads with minimal ingredients. Naturally leavened bread, especially sourdough, is not only easier for us to digest but also allows for more nutrients to be absorbed. Go for the whole grain option if you’re looking for a source of complex carbohydrates and fiber. Add healthy toppings from avocado and egg to homemade nut butter and fresh fruit. Try hummus and veggies or a variety of superfoods. You’ve got a buzzworthy menu item that is here to stay.

Olive & Herb with whipped feta, evoo & herbs (BirchTree Bread Company)
Olive & Herb with whipped feta, evoo & herbs (BirchTree Bread Company)

Another bonus: depending on what’s on your toast and how much of it you’re eating, toast can serve as a snack or a meal; it’s great for portion control (think open-faced sandwich – one slice of bread instead of two) and getting a variety of nutrients and flavors from different toppings. Lastly, it is a win for the indecisive; why choose sweet or savory when you could have both?

Central Mass toast options are on the rise – restaurants are bringing unique combinations and their own twists on a classic. You can find stand-alone menu options for toast at some cafés and bakeries, such as BirchTree Bread Company and STEAM Energy Cafe.

Avra Hoffman, co-owner of BirchTree Bread Company describes toast as “not only breakfast, but a perfect snack, a light lunch, a vehicle for carrying wholesome house-made toppings on and a way to keep things simple by returning to our roots of having toast with family.” Expect to find some creative combos from BirchTree Bread Company that focus on using local and seasonal ingredients, whenever possible. Their unique weekly specials created by Brittany, head pastry chef and graduate of the New Culinary Institute, even has its own hashtag (#brittanystoast.) If you follow the hashtag you can look back on some fan favorites, such as Taco toast or S’mores toast with homemade fluff.

Artisanal toast also shows up occasionally on brunch specials from restaurants such as Lock 50,  in the form of open-faced steak and eggs; or at Armsby Abbey, which sources its naturally leavened and freshly baked breads from Crust Artisan Bakeshop. You’ll also find avocado toast, a trend within itself, as a hot menu item at local spots like Brew on the Grid and Nu Kitchen. You can stick with classic avocado toasts, like the one from Nu Kitchen, which has avocado, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper; or mix it up with one from STEAM Café which builds on the classic and adds goat cheese and mixed nuts.

My prediction is that toast is here to stay. Expect this trend to grow and start showing up on more menus. Are you hooked on toast? If not, I think it’s only a matter of time…

Brittany’s Toast-bbq baked beans, caramelized onions With bacon, melted sharp cheddar on country (BirchTree Bread Company)
Brittany’s Toast-bbq baked beans, caramelized onions With bacon, melted sharp cheddar on country (BirchTree Bread Company)
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No Margin Of Error For Rob Fecteau & BirchTree Bread Co.

Rob Fecteau Baking Bread at BirchTree Bread Co

Rob Fecteau remembers the feeling he had when the first loaves of bread came out of the oven at his BirchTree Bread Company on Green Street: “Not to sound mushy but it was pretty magical.”

Coriander Raisin Loaves at BirchTree Bread Co. Photo by Alex for WorcesterScene.com
Coriander Raisin Loaves at BirchTree Bread Co. Photo by Alex for WorcesterScene.com

The bread was baked before BirchTree opened – ciabatta, an Italian white bread, for Rob’s cousin who helped with the construction: “We are all Italians or mostly Italian eating the Italian bread coming out of the oven. There’s a picture of me with a loaf and there’s construction and a ladder in the background and it was awesome. There were about ten loaves of bread and they were all a little burnt and caramelized, but they were the first and magic.”

That ciabatta, now flecked with rosemary, is still on the menu at BirchTree, one of the special breads that rotate in to complement the three daily loaves, the most popular of which is the simplest: a crusty Country loaf. Second place, however, is more surprising: Coriander Raisin. Not to Rob – he loves the sweet-savory combination – but some really do not care for coriander or aren’t used to having it in bread. The other daily bread is made with local whole wheat and flax. All of them are made with natural leaven – a mixture of wild yeasts and naturally occurring good bacteria that help leaven and flavor the dough – which in itself is a kind of magic… and menace.

Rob Fecteau Baking Bread at BirchTree Bread Co. Photo by Alex Belisle for WorcesterScene.com
Rob Fecteau Baking Bread at BirchTree Bread Co. Photo by Alex Belisle for WorcesterScene.com

“I thought baking would be easier as a chef and it’s not,” says Rob who was born in Worcester and spent 15 years working as a chef in the surrounding area. “There’s a real challenge using the natural leaven starter. It is not always predicable.” Like any living organism, you need to feed it, and Rob adds, “Unless you are on point with the feeding you will get a different result.”

According to Rob, that’s one of the biggest differences between bakers and chefs: “Chefs make lots of miniature calculations and can make amends when they miss. Bakers make a few calculations and if you miss any of them you mess up the whole thing. You must know your dough and what is happening in each level of the process to make the right decisions. You can’t scramble. Once something’s done, it’s done.”

So why leave his established and comfortable career as a chef? To take on that challenge and learn new culinary skills. Besides, chefs work late nights, and Rob, who got married in May of 2014, hopes baking will give him a more balanced life. The baker’s life, like the bread itself, is more precise. Even though his days start early, his wife is a teacher and they both like waking up with the sun. So, he set out to find baking inspiration both near (Five Loaves in Spencer and Hungry Ghost in Northampton) and far (Tartine, Acme, and others in California).

The real revelation was the space Rob ended up with for BirchTree. He pictured himself and a helper opening something like Hungry Ghost, which basically has bread racks and a walk in counter. He knew he wanted to be in Worcester, but he never imagined occupying the massive space on Green Street with its warm, industrial-feel, openness, and constant sunlight pouring in from the windows.

“Sometimes the space creates the vision for what you make,” says Rob.

That big, welcoming, inclusive vision seems much more logical when you consider Rob’s cooking inspiration. His father is French and his mother is Italian and both sides of the family cooked. He remembers semiannual trips to his maternal family’s house in upstate New York where the food just kept coming, the kitchen and dining room filled with platters of seafood, vegetables, and sauces. Rob credits his father, a travelling salesman, for expanding his international tastes and fueling his desire to explore with stories, pictures, and food brought back Africa, China, France, Germany, and South America.

And Rob hasn’t left his chef hat behind. In addition to the breads and pastries, BirchTree added sandwiches to the menu in January and runs what he calls a “scratch kitchen,” braising its own corned beef and making its own preserves, pickles, and nut butters. Rob won’t say what’s coming next – despite this author’s plea for pizza – only that he is happy with the slow growth, wants to keep doing what he is doing better, and is listening to his customers even as he forges ahead with his own vision.

“It’s not called artisan bread because it is baked in an artisan oven,” he notes. “It’s because there is an artisan making it, crafting it every step of the way.”

BirchTree Bread Co on Green Street in Worcester, MA. Photo by Alex Belisle for WorcesterScene.com
BirchTree Bread Co on Green Street in Worcester, MA. Photo by Alex Belisle for WorcesterScene.com