Posted on

Worcester’s Chef Alina Eisenhauer of Sweet Launches New American Cookbook Project

Alina and her local team with her cookbook project's cover dish.

Worcester’s food scene is booming. High and low, big and small, growers and game raisers, chef-driven and concept-driven, comfort food to refined plates, baked goods to bar stools, fickle customers to foodies, tacos to tasting menus… Worcester has it all with something new seemingly announced every week. It is some kind of wonderful.

Yet there is one thing this Worcester scene does not have: a cookbook author. (Geoffrey Zakarian is from Worcester but he is not of Worcester.)

Until now. Alina Eisenhauer of Sweet Kitchen & Bar plans to publish her first book, Cooking from Memory: A New American Cookbook in 2017. The book is about food as our common ground: recipes and stories from Alina that connect us to ourselves, one another, and a mosaic of flavors that make up American food. But how the book will be created, like Worcester itself, is different from most cookbooks.

Alina’s doing it herself. More correctly, Alina is using a local team, an independent publisher, and most importantly: Kickstarter which is officially live.

Through friends, family, customers, colleagues, social media connections, and a few total strangers willing to buy a book, cupcake, or something more in advance, Alina hopes to fund the book now and deliver it by the end of the year – something no traditional publisher could offer.

Cooking From Memory, Chef Alina Eisenhauer's new book going on Kickstarter.
Cooking From Memory, Chef Alina Eisenhauer’s new book going on Kickstarter.

“I have known what I wanted Cooking from Memory to be for years: A recipe book about the way I and we all connect to food,” Alina says. “What I didn’t know was that I wanted to crowdfund it and create it myself. I thought I wanted to go a more traditional route. But would traditional publishers understand me? Worcester? The connection I wanted to capture through stories and recipes to my family and friends, this city, chef community, staff, and customers? Especially to my mom – this is dedicated to her! Probably not and even if they did I would have to spend months on a proposal just to prove my concept to those publishers and then it would take months to get it printed. I wouldn’t have a book until the end of 2018 earliest!”

And even then, Eisenhauer noticed, she would not only lose some control of how she wanted the book to feel but likely have to commit to buying back a few thousand books to sell at Sweet. A long discussion with her family and friends, local connections, and some quick number crunching and she realized: For the price of a few thousand books she could assemble her own team and execute her own vision for Cooking from Memory.

“No matter what I’d still have to do the same things I would do to create the book for a publishing house,” Alina adds. “I’d have to write the book, create and test the recipes, cook the food for the photos. So why not own it all and do it myself and make it look and feel like I wanted? So I assembled a terrific local team including Scott and Donna at Erb Photography and Sophia at Dolce Vittoria design group. I found a publisher in Story Farm who could help put it together and print it quickly and beautifully. As you can see from the sample pages, we have already given our book a clear direction, amazing design, and fantastic photography and writing to make Cooking from Memory a reality better than I imagined.”

Full disclosure: one of those people is yours truly. I knew Alina from my profile of her for Mass Foodies and of course loved her food. But things got real last August when my first cookbook, Sweet Myrtle & Bitter Honey (2008) with Efisio Farris, was selected by Chowhound as their book to cook from for the month. Alina saw, reached out, and asked me to be her writer. (I like to call myself a “professional with”: YOUR NAME IN LIGHTS with me.) We talked through the fall, generating concepts and recipe lists, ultimately settling on Cooking from Memory. We met with uber agents Lisa and Sally Ekus from Hatfield, who outlined the different directions – possibilities and pitfalls – and ultimately introduced us to Story Farm. We decided to go this route.

I have worked with chefs and cookbooks for more than 20 years now and maybe the single biggest change I have seen is the evolution of what used to be called self-publishing and today is better known as independent publishing. And yes, there is more than a semantic difference. Self-publishing conjures memories of cheap manifestos of poor quality. More importantly, self-publishing used to mean you couldn’t get someone to buy your idea and you HAD to do it yourself. At Kinkos. On copy paper.

No more. One look at our sample pages and there is no doubt this is a beautifully executed book. In the age of the solo-preneur, Alina has been able to assemble a team that rivals that of any traditional publisher. (I know: I worked at and with many.) And like Alina said, she keeps the control of the timing, look, and feel. It is an incredible amount of work to do it right, but ultimately very fulfilling.

If we get it done that is. We have already invested lots of time and a little money to get the Kickstarter launched. Now, it is up to all of Alina’s and the team’s connections. We need our communities to back this play and make this Worcester’s first chef-in-residence cookbook.

A cookbook is an expensive project. The funding goal is the minimum Alina needs, less Kickstarter fees, to lock in the publishing process and start the work to print at least 5,000 copies of a high-quality hardcover full color cookbook this year. The first stretch goal is a little more than $100,000 to cover all printing and design, photography, writing, recipe testing and conversion, copyediting, and proofreading.

“I’ll worry about my time and food costs after the team,” Alina says. “But I promise to make it worth everyone’s while with great stretch rewards if we get there!

And it’s not like backers won’t get something for their support – most will get a cookbook delivered as soon as it is ready. A limited number can get more, including their memories and a recipe based on them captured in the book or a dinner based on the book at Sweet. The book also gives back: for every book sold Alina will give donate at least $1 to her favorite charity: Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign.

We’ll be covering the path of this Kickstarter and the cookbook production as it happens on Mass Foodies, but for now let’s make some memories together.

Cooking from Memory: A New American Cookbook
Cooking from Memory: A New American Cookbook
Posted on

Alina Eisenhauer Creates More Than Sweets

Alina Eisenhauer from Sweet on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA

The thin slices of pig heart “pastrami” look impossibly ruby colored, almost purple – a stark contrast to the sheen of pale yellow mustard topping the small mason jar of rillettes (a pâté-like spread of pork cooked in its own fat) next to them on the charcuterie board. There are ribbons of house-cured ham too. And a tempting fat-studded headcheese that belies its name. (Who gave such deliciousness such an off-putting moniker?)

Standing over the board is the person who made it all: Alina Eisenhauer. Yes, that Alina Eisenhauer. The “pastry chef.” The one who deftly incorporated rambutan (a tropical fruit) into a cupcake on The Food Network show “Sweet Genius.” The one who has been dazzling Worcester and beyond since 2008 with her signature cupcakes, which line the entrance to her restaurant, Sweet Kitchen & Bar, and adorn its logo. For sure, those pig parts, especially that heart pastrami, would make any carnivore scream, “Sweet!” But they are decidedly savory.

And if this confuses you, well, you may know her cupcakes but you don’t truly know Alina or Sweet.

Chef Alina Eisenhauer preparing a dish from her new Savory Menu at Sweet on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA (Photo by Erb Photography)
Chef Alina Eisenhauer preparing a dish from her new Savory Menu at Sweet on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, MA (Photo by Erb Photography)

Don’t worry. Alina still makes a “damned good” cupcake and she still has that wicked sweet tooth that led to her “dosant” and other popular dessert creations. (She’s aware that rebellions might form should they ever disappear.) It’s just that Alina waxes equally rhapsodic about her restaurant’s growing and evolving savory side, which actually takes her back to where she started.

“Everyone – including me! — is so quick to think that I started in desserts, but I started as a cook in restaurants,” says Alina. “I have a love/hate relationship with the structure that pastry requires. My natural personality is not that of a pastry chef. A savory chef doesn’t need to be that exacting. You don’t have to stand over the candy thermometer because if you go over or under one degree you’ve ruined the whole thing. Because that isn’t my personality in the kitchen, I guess I took a certain amount of pride in forcing myself to do desserts and accomplishing the challenge when the opportunity presented itself. I learned pastry and desserts from my mother but I taught myself at sixteen when there was no pastry chef at the restaurant I worked at. I became the pastry chef. I was obsessed. That’s how I am.”

That explains Alina’s current savory obsessions. Her eyes may light up passing a flat of strawberries from Lettuce Be Local but maybe even more so when she explains how to scrape the fat off the inside of pig skin with a spoon, fry that skin into crispy chicharrones (pork rinds), and use them as a foundation in place of chips for the ultimate paleo nachos. The skin and all the aforementioned bits came from a whole pig she got from Lilac Hedge Farm in Berlin; she plans on doing even more with their porcine tastiness in the near future. Lilac also provides Sweet’s ground beef, which Alina used as the foundation for her entry to The James Beard Foundation’s Better Burger Project™– a nationwide challenge to blend ground meat with 30% mushrooms to create a tasty but more sustainable burger.

The burger has been a hit but overall Alina still struggles for acceptance of her savory treats designed for sharing because have you tasted those cupcakes? “So many people around here identify me for the sweet and have yet to realize that we make really good food not just desserts. We are working on changing that. I have the confidence I can do it. People even joke that pastry chefs are the better chefs because we have to be more technical. We are taught to follow recipes, and if you give me a recipe for anything, I can cook it.” Alina stops and laughs, “If you’re a recipe kind of person.”

Balancing her sweet and savory sides accomplishes two things for Alina. The first is purely business: “There’s a lot of competition for the sweet side. Desserts are such a small segment. Not everyone eats desserts every day. Some just for special occasions. Supermarket bakeries are getting better. You have to do other things to survive.”

“But the bigger reason for me is creative,” she continues. “My mom always told me I was looking for the next thing. I love a challenge. To be locked in the box of just sugar and chocolate didn’t give me as much creatively.”

It also doesn’t let her push boundaries, which is the biggest challenge as the Worcester food scene grows: “Like other great chefs in the city, we try and educate the consumer. There are things I would love to be able to do that people are not ready for like incorporating more vegetables into dessert. I know they will like it but will they try it? When you are using fresh local ingredients, you don’t have a lot of room for people not to try it because there is a lot of waste.”

So, she pushes gently. “We did a sorrel ice cream, which is a weed that grows on your sidewalk, and made ice cream that was very popular but the fact that it came with strawberries and whipped cream probably helped. That’s the way to do it. Sneak it into a dish that they might not be 100% sure what it is but the rest of the dish sounds so good that they will try it anyway. I was pleasantly surprised at how well the burger has been received just because people do not think of us as that kind of place.”

That’s certainly true of Alina’s favorite part of Sweet’s menu too: brunch, which is unlike any in the city right now and which she would love to expand from weekends to a Friday “Business Brunch” or even a gospel one on Sundays. She’s playing with more than pig too, including the first “nitro” cold brewed coffee tap (pours like a Guinness and tastes unlike any iced coffee you’ve had) behind one of the most inspired and best stocked bars in Worcester.

The important thing for Alina is the restaurant scene in Worcester is getting so much richer: “We are getting enough chefs here who are pushing boundaries and doing interesting things and informing and educating consumers about what they are doing. We are buying local. It’s not competition. The more there are of us doing it, the more it grows the demand for it and people want more and more.”

As she pushes to satisfy this demand, Alina also tries to remember to celebrate what she has not just what she can do better and different for her customers to give them the best experience and the happiest memories. For someone who makes madeleines, she sounds appropriately Proustian: “Everything we do here is because we are trying to provide an amazing experience and a memory for someone. That is what food is. It is memories.”

That goes for herself, too: “I do this because I love it. This is a passion for people like me. You are so driven, so focused on what you are doing in the kitchen, you forget to appreciate what you have achieved. Usually it catches me on a Friday night, walking up the stairs. I turn around and see the place full of people having a good time, my kitchen turning out great food, and my dedicated staff serving it, and I think, ‘This is cool.’”

A Charcuterie Board Served With Nitro Coffee at Sweet on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester © 2015 (Photography by Alex Belisle)
A Charcuterie Board Served With Nitro Coffee at Sweet on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester © 2015 (Photography by Alex Belisle)