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Art Shapes Appetite at The Boynton

Chris Quercia’s inspiration for the Boynton Cobbler was the Mechanics Hall mural painted by Pow!Wow! artist, Morgan Blair.

At this moment, fourteen drab walls are undergoing a dramatic transformation just one block away from The Boynton Restaurant. The effort is part of Pow!Wow! Worcester, an international mural festival that has brought more than thirty artists to Central Massachusetts for a ten day art spree. The Boynton is fully embracing their neighborhood’s new look, and to prove it, Bar Manager Chris Quercia is premiering a very special cocktail on the menu.

Chris Quercia’s inspiration for the Boynton Cobbler was the Mechanics Hall mural painted by Pow!Wow! artist, Morgan Blair.In the case of pairing food and drink, context often serves as a deciding factor. There’s a reason we crave an apertivo after a long day at work or a PSL on a brisk autumn morning. Our tastes mimic the environments we’re immersed in.

As Pow!Wow! Worcester overtakes the city, it’s bringing the food and drink scene along with it. Quercia is just one of ten bartenders who has designed a drink based on the works of art that have rendered Worcester a “visitor destination” of late. The Boynton is donating $2 from each “Boynton Cobbler” sold in order to help engage our city’s youth in collaborative art during the festival.

Quercia’s inspiration for the Boynton Cobbler was the Mechanics Hall mural painted by Pow!Wow! artist, Morgan Blair. Blair herself gleans tremendous influence from tasty ingredients. As a child, she loved nothing more than watching the cake decorators at the grocery store. She also has an affinity for banana peels. Today, she is moved by shapes; many of her paintings mimic still images of hands at work. For her Mechanics Hall mural, Blair isolated shapes from inside the iconic Worcester concert hall and boldly represented them on the building’s brick facade.

Quercia also found influence from the building itself, learning that The Cobbler was an extraordinarily popular cocktail during the era in which Mechanics Hall was constructed. His Boynton Cobbler contains Montelobos Mezcal, Amontillado Sherry, Lejay Cassis, honey, and lemon. Caleb Borgen from The Boynton’s kitchen suggests pairing Quercia’s creation with a meat and cheese board including pancetta, house made dill pickles, King Ranch chicken sausage, house pickled beets, saucisson sec, grapes, and Brie. The sherry carries light tobacco notes and when matched with the assertive smoke of mezcal, its slight salinity attains fresh elegance. Each roasty sip seems destined to collide with the pepper of thick pancetta and the bright summer medallions of crisp dill pickles. Best of all are the beet rounds – earth candy grasping at rich and fruity doses of cassis.

We’re sure Blair would be particularly taken with the range of shapes on the board and the array of hands grabbing for grapes, slicing meats, and smearing cheeses. Nonetheless, guests will find their plates and glasses free of shapes in no time at all; this pairing is irresistible.

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The Land Picks the Pairing at Four Star Farms

House milled 4 Star Farms wharthog wheat & baby carrot pappardelle, roasted baby carrots, kale & green garlic, carrot top salsa, aged goat cheese, carrot crumb and Honest Weight Branch Bridge.

Four Star Farms is located on the prehistoric lake bottom of Lake Hitchcock in Northfield, Massachusetts. This family farm boasts several feet of the best topsoil in the world – Hadley Silt Loam – ensuring peak conditions for thriving grains and hops. As a result, more than fifty local purveyors have taken to using Four Star’s crops to make beer, pasta, and pastries, among dozens of other grainy iterations dreamed up by our creative culinary community. If the key to a great pairing relies on terroir (the French term for ‘earth’) it was written in the stars for the L’Etoiles.

Armsby Abbey's Chef Damian Evangelous makes a visit to Four Star Farms.
Armsby Abbey’s Chef Damian Evangelous makes a visit to Four Star Farms.

Four Star Farms was built and passed down through fourteen generations of L’Etoiles. You’ve likely enjoyed the fruits of their labor at Central Mass breweries like Wormtown, Medusa, KBC, and Homefield as well as countless area restaurants. When it comes to Four Star Farms, it’s best to let the land do the pairing.

Four Star’s grains are something of a constant on the menu at Worcester’s Armsby Abbey where Western Mass breweries like Honest Weight and Brick and Feather have quickly risen through the ranks. Both Honest Weight and Brick and Feather benefit from Four Star’s plentiful harvest, making them natural pairings for dishes like the Abbey’s Pappardelle.

Kitten with a Whip at Brick and Feather Brewery
Kitten with a Whip at Brick and Feather Brewery

The Baby Carrot Pappardelle is made with juiced carrot and a house milled whole grain from Four Star Farms called Warthog Wheat. The dish is served with roasted baby carrots, kale and green garlic, carrot top salsa, aged goat cheese, and carrot crumb. Liz L’Etoile explains, “The warthog is used by lots of bakers for sourdough loaves and has a very strong wheat flavor; it can also be used in strong pastas.”

Warthog is a hard-red-winter-wheat variety. “‘Hard’ relates to the type of protein – a rising protein great for making breads, ‘red’ is related to the color of the berry – there are red or white berries, and ‘winter’ relates to the time of year the grain is planted – late fall,” says L’Etoille.

As for beer pairings, keep an eye on the draft list for selections like ‘Kitten with a Whip’ – Brick and Feather’s new Munich Helles Lager, or ‘Lightworks’ – Honest Weight’s American Blonde. Both brews are light and crushable, ideal for easy summer drinking. Brick and Feather’s head brewer, Lawrence George adds, “We are about to release a new beer that uses some of Four Star’s hops and also includes elder flower and honey. We don’t have a name for it yet but it is the 100th batch of beer we’ve brewed, and it’s a farmhouse style Belgian ale.”

You can find Brick and Feather and Honest Weight along with Damian Evangelous of Armsby Abbey at the Lettuce Be Local Farmer Dinner on Sunday, July 23rd. The event will be held at Four Star Farms at 3 p.m. and promises a heartfelt showcase of local and traceable ingredients.