Category: Worcester

Mass Foodies is dedicated to consuming everything that the commonwealth has to offer. The food review portion of Mass Foodies is written by independent group of wandering consumers from different backgrounds. Foodies come together once a month at a predetermined restaurant, order off of the menu, and share their experience Learn more »

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Deadhorse Hill: A Trip Away Without Leaving Worcester

Spaetzle from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA

Once a hotel (Bay State House), deadhorse hill has reclaimed the history of the building it occupies dating back to the early 1900’s. Then, the headquarters for the Worcester Automobile Club held the Dead Horse Hill Climb from 1905-1911, where the best drivers and fastest cars would compete in a one mile race up Stafford Street- a steep 16% incline. Today, the owner/operators of deadhorse hill pay homage to the buildings origins and hope to return it to its glory days of being a prominent social destination.

The trio of owners clearly took their charge of creating a sense of nostalgia and integrity quite seriously; Sourcing antique glassware and china that recall your childhood memories (vintage dinner plates with butterfly gold patterns to the iconic Ronald McDonald collectible water glass) and outfitting their entire front-of-house staff with shirts displaying different Worcester designs from Worcester Wares (a retail store with all Worcester-themed goods just a block away on Commercial St.).

Memphis Rib from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA
Memphis Rib from deadhorse hill on Main Street in Worcester, MA

I appreciate small details and deadhorse hill scored high in this department. With a modern but simple twist, the menu came to us on clipboard with a selection of small plates (more like an appetizer) and large plates (entrée). While it all looked amazing, I decided to order two small plates. I was a little concerned it might not be enough food but it turned out to be more than sufficient. As to why I chose small plates, well… I am of German descent and anytime I have an opportunity to order Spaetzle, I’m in! This was no ordinary German noodle; This Spaetzle was pan-fried with mustard, sugar snap peas and a dollop of crème fraiche. The first few bites were good but as I got deeper into the bowl and combined the noodle with the sauce, it went from good to amazing. With different textures and flavors, this meant the rest of the meal had a lot to live up to. To go with it, I elected the Memphis Ribs with a big helping of house-made bread & butter pickles and a vinegar slaw of red cabbage. The plate came with 4 smokey dry-rubbed ribs. The meat literally fell off the bone. If I wasn’t in the company of some very lovely people then I probably wouldn’t have bothered with utensils. I’m not a huge fan of sweet pickles (more of a dill girl) but they were fresh and crunchy. On the other hand, I absolutely love pickled vegetables and the red cabbage slaw was terrific and very balanced.

The menu is a little pricier than other restaurants in the downtown area but I felt that the prices were justified. Everything is made from scratch- curing their own meats and making their own sauces. Our server, Carlos, told us Jared (owner and Chef de Cuisine) is a like a mad scientist, letting things marinate and creating special concoctions. Carlos was a wonderful server- super friendly and informative. He wasn’t afraid to give a recommendation, which I admire in a server.

I am thrilled to see a restaurant like this in downtown Worcester. It felt like fine dining without all of the pomp & circumstance. The owners have had some good press and I believe they’ve set the bar for other restaurants in the area. Although they’re not from Worcester originally, they’ve totally embraced the city, the people and the history. That’s a winning combination!

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VIA’s Italian Pig Roast

Chicharonnes from VIA Italian Table during their Italian Pig Roast during July in Worcester

Everyday in the month of July, VIA has been roasting an entire pig, and from that pig, creating truly unique dishes from various cuts of the hog. Any chance that I get, I love pork; any cut, shape, or prepared way. If it’s from the pig, chances are I want to eat it!

Having been to VIA several times before, I knew that they are known for their diverse menu of Italian offerings, from homemade pastas, to seafood and steak. Via also does a fabulous job with combining portion size and value. Chances are, you are most likely not going home hungry.

Before I could even get to the door, I was greeted with the sweet aroma of the pig being cooked. It just so happened that the pig was on full display, being roasted outside the restaurant on a spit and in a reflector oven. The skin looked wonderfully crispy, and the scent alone was enough to bring the most casual passer-by in for a closer look or enough to convince them to stop in for a meal. Having glanced at the offerings beforehand, I had a good idea of what I wanted to get. For $29.99, you can choose one item from each course (appetizers and entrees), as well as choosing a pre-paired beer or wine pour as well. Each dinner is also served with a mixed green salad as well.

For the appetizer, I knew I had to order the chicharonnes. Having only tasted them one previous time, and seeing them feature prominently on the Food Network on shows such as Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, I knew that I needed to get these. For those of you who may not know what chicharonnes are, they are fried pork skin. They are precooked and dehydrated as best as the chef can get them, to the consistency of a tiny, dried up potato chip. But when they are submerged in a deep frier, they expand to several times their original side, while being light and airy. These pig skins were given a generous coating of a sweet and spicy mixture. These were like potato chips on steroids. They were crunchy and made you want to keep eating them. The spice mixture was a great addition, lending just a subtle hint of sweetness, followed by a low dose of heat, to finish your palate out.

Roasted Suckling Pig VIA Italian Table during their Italian Pig Roast during July in Worcester
Roasted Suckling Pig VIA Italian Table during their Italian Pig Roast during July in Worcester

I could’ve snacked on the chicharonnes all night, but I chose the roasted suckling pig for my entree. This dish consisted of a house butchered portion of the pig (which had been slowly roasting for 12 hours), served with Tuscan roasted potatoes and finished with a rich pork reduction sauce.

The sheer beauty of this dish was breathtaking. The dish had height with a crisped chicharonne resting on the top and depth, and without taking a bite you could see the different textures on the plate. Diving in, you were subjected to tender pieces of pork, evidence of the long roasting process. The pieces were rich, dark and deep with flavor. I compared these bites to dark meat turkey, but with more of a pork essence. The red bliss potatoes were cooked to fork tender and seasoned nicely. The pork reduction served as a wonderful dipping sauce for every bite. Very much demi glacé like, this was the essence of the pig reduced down into a rich sauce that made you wish you had more of it by the end of the meal. The tenderness of the potato and the crispy, fried pork skin helped break up some of the richness of the plate, as it could get very overwhelming without them. I chose to pair my meal with a 2014 Scarpetta “Frico Rosso” Sangoviese. Not as dry as I was expecting it to be, this red wine paired well with the dish, complementing the pork like a deep red would pair well with a nice medium-rare ribeye.

I could have eaten another round of food, the dishes were that well delivered and executed. The slow roasting of the pork brought out another level of flavor that you don’t normally get in your run of the mill pork chop, or even pull pork. I would highly recommend the Pig Roast to anyone who enjoys pork, and maybe wants to step out of their comfort zone to try it prepared another way. VIA Italian Table delivers the pig experience with deft hand, and with the month half over, your time remaining to enjoy this wonderful feast is slowly slipping away. I guarantee that you will not be disappointed in your meal, regardless of your choice.